having the main power switch at the rear of the machine forces you to reach over exposed moving parts. this modification was created to make the power switch easier to access, and recessed to keep things neat. this modification also does not require soldering, cutting or splicing of the existing wire. includes a snap-in cover for power switch slot.
LAYER / INFILL SETTINGS IMPORTANT FOR THIS EFFECT!!
(although you could print solid if you wish...)
[ 0 top/bottom layers ]
[ 7 lines outer wall ]
[ 50% infill ] triangles, tri-hex, grid, any infill that stacks in the z-direction
[ supports: yes ]
[ build plate adhesion: skirt (glass+hairspray) brim (buildtak/tape/gluestick) ]
if you have parts printed out, but still require instructions...
- power off and unplug machine ;]
- unscrew left side panel, and bottom panel if needed
- remove two spade connectors behind power switch (red wires), pulling up the wire insulation first
- from the inside of the machine, squeeze the top and bottom of power switch fitting, to release and push out power switch (using a screwdriver may help this)
- fix power switch into printed plate, with the O side down. also make sure the power switch is switched O (off)
- reconnect spade connectors, and wire insulation (the longer red wire is connected to top pin by default, but not sure if being inline it would make a difference either way?)
- screw side panel back into place, bottom panel if you removed it
- plug in machine and power on to verify that everything works
- 7 lines outer wall
- 0 top / bottom (no top/bottom layers)
- optimize print order
- alternate extra walls
- triangles, tri-hexagon, grid, or any infill pattern that stacks horizontally (excluding lines, cubic subdivision, cross, etc. may not work, or provide enough stability)
- disable "infill before outer walls"
infill based passive cooling panels on both sides
parts in my images were printed with monoprice crystal clear PLA