Wood Dungeon Door - Hinged, Open/Closed, & Slide In

by RobagoN May 25, 2018
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Hi. Could you please specify which a tile under the door did you used? Are it tiles from Gloomhaven?

Thank you for amazing job!

Yeah, door floor piece fits a single Gloomhaven cardboard floor overlay tile.

Any way you can provide the door with the hinges and handles removed? I'd like to print just the doors and frame and use some real hinges, like the ones used on doll house builds. Thanks!!!

Excellent! I had issues with hinges breaking until i turned "External Single Extrusions" to OFF.

Hello! I am totaly new to the 3D printing but bought one Ender 3 to pimp my board games. Your doors are really nice: I just finished printing the closed one and I am really satisfied of the result. However, how did you manage to print a version with open doors? Should i changed something to the original SLT? Or print element separately and then glue them?

LZ, the "closed" version is meant to be printed along with an "open" version for each door (the open version has no doors). If you want to have working doors print: "Wood Door - Working V2.5.stl," that is what is pictured with the minis. This has print-in-place working hinges that can be carefully loosened after printing. They will then open and close freely after that and you will only need to print one model for each door.

Good luck with blinging your board games, it is a lot of fun!

It's working! Thanks a thousand, i love it!

Thanks! I will give it a try (probably this weekend) and keep you posted! But, in any case, your door is (already) really nice.

This looks incredible. Would it be possible to post a version of the working door, but with the arch as a separate piece (ideally, slotted so that it can slide down onto the supports)? I just had a failed print and it looks like something sagged while printing the archway, which must have snagged on the lower piece and pulled it off of the bed. The doors work beautifully though, I really looking forward to getting this on the game board!

Good idea. The files are uploaded. Print them out and let me know how it goes together, post a pic if you get a chance.

After I posted, I decided to just try the print again and see if the failure was a fluke. Try #2 with the same gcode worked really well - there were a few loops of plastic at the bottom of the archway that didn't get into their proper place, but overall, it was a successful print. I'm printing off a few more fully assembled ones now, to see if the failure or the success was the fluke for me, then I'll try a few with the separated arch.

I always get a few loops as well at the very top of the arch underside. I've printed 6 of the working version so far.

Wow, printing these doors has been a process of fine tuning and really learning how to use my printer! After 1 successful print and 5 failed prints, I ended up doing an extrusion test and found that I was overextruding by 2%, so I corrected that in Slic3r but it wasn't enough. I then dropped my nozzle temperature to 200 degrees and reduced my bridge speed to 25 mm/sec. Finally, I used Slic3r to set the first few layers of the bridge down to 50 micron layer height (I'm using 100 micron everywhere else), so that there'd be less plastic being deposited and it would hopefully cool faster. I finally got a really solid print with no loose loops, after making all of those changes. The print was still a little sloppy at the middle of the underside of the arch, but a bit of work with a file cleaned it right up. I've got 2 more on the printer right now; once they finish, it'll be time for painting!

Nice! Yeah, printing bridges can be tricky. Just wait until you change filament or nozzle size. :) I wanted to make the arch higher/steeper to make it easier to print but the higher the arch the more the top of the door was interfereing, so I had to lower it down a bit.

What kind of extrusion test did you perform? I haven't tried dialing mine in yet.

It was pretty easy - I measured 110 mm up from the top of my print head and put a mark on the filament. Then, I preheated the print head and extruded 100 mm of filament. Next, I measured the distance to my mark - if everything was perfect, it would've been 10 mm above the print head. 100/<Amount Actually Extruded = your extrusion multiplier to tune the system.

Thanks for the "how to"!