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Gloomeskk

DAEMON 3D Printable 3D Printer

by Gloomeskk Jun 1, 2018
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The only thing holding this back I see is the base. If someone above my pay grade could split the base in two even if it requires bolts to assemble it would open up this to a whole group of people. My Ender 3 will barely fit. Splitting the extended base and bed would be great as well and they could also be done on a 220 bed. Thanks in advance and I'll keep watching.

please please can some one upload a copy of the firmware used for this printer i need it please

The firmware is downloadable in the Thing files

is it okay if i print this parts with PLA

Sure, PLA is fine (this one was printed in PLA).

This is a very innovative design!!
Would it be possible to get the source files, I would like to re-mix it to allow using a standard 220x220mm heated build plate, and maybe try some other things.

Hey, I can give you a step file with the whole printer if you want.

I have two Z stepper motors with screws from the A6, Do you think it would help to add a 2nd screw to the front of the build platform, or is it stable enough with the upgrade by Zinoberrot?

Considering the size of the bed right now, 1 motor is enough. But if you plan on putting a 220mm bed, maybe one more will improve the quality. Be careful with hyperstatism though.

I'll send a step model as soon as I got the time ;)

That would be awesome! I don't have any professional CAD sw though, can you export to FreeCAD or other Free software, I've mostly been using OpenScad for my projects?
I got my 1st printer back in March, an Anet A6, and have upgraded most of it except the acrylic frame. I recently got a new 2018 (Gold) Tevo Tornado for my main printer, so I can re-factor my A6 parts into a new printer. I've seen several different upgrade paths for the A6, for example (AM6) using a new frame made from aluminum extrusion so that it looks like a small CR-10, but that would be too expensive, I would rather use the money for a Delta design. I really like your Cartesian design, It looks like it will be very stable and solid, and I can use the A6 linear rods and drive screws, motors, heat-bed, electronics etc. to build a new DAEMON A6.

like the XY motion system, how are you finding it? any wobble like you see on a prusa? think this is a good fix as the X motor is even on the Y axis

The system works pretty well. I centered the mass of the motors to avoid over constraint on one side or another. The weakest point of the machine is probably the Z axis.

Would some diagonals going front to back will help with that if its the rigidness. or even slide in side panels
Is the the Z rigidness you meant?
Also think that a z belt would be cool

The problem is the adjustment of the 2 bearings. They have to roll really nicely to ensure a stable bed. If it's not, the rolling of the screw will create little changes in the plane angle leading to problems on the final print. To fix this it is possible to use a non metric threaded rod (designed for 3d printers) which is more expensive, or make better linear bearings with less play and better rolling surface. But this will also increase the overall cost of the machine.

With the reinforced bed of Zinoberrot and a T8 Trapezoidal leadscrew the bed is very stable (3,26 € for the leadscrew 250mm + copper screw :) .

I'am curently testing the printer , it works really good (you really need to over tight the X and Y belt, for really good quality print ) . I will post the "make" later after some cable management ^^

Nice work, it looks really tougher than mine !

Last print 145mm tall :) I have a 200 Z on the printer ^^ 0.3 mm @ 60mm/s buse 0.4 . Still need some tweaking with the extruder.

Looks great ! I'm pretty satisfied with this XY architecture, it prints fast and quiet.

Thanks , i love the design ! I'm planning to make one, i have all the parts in stock :)

I am currently trying to build the printer and I believe that some modifications may be required on the X-axis parts.

a) The screw hole for the X-axis idlers seems to be for an M4 screw, not M3. There is no way to insert a nut to hold it in place and the head of the M4 screw is too tall, preventing the rod from getting in. One could trim the head of the screw too but idlers with a 4mm bore are also difficult to find (at least where I am), 3 or 5 mm idlers are pretty much the standard here.

b) The 20T idlers rub against the plastic. Nothing a bit of filing can't fix though.

c) When assembled, the X-gantry seems to be a tiny bit longer than what it should be. The motor holes all line up perfectly but the assembly is just a bit too wide, pushing the Y-axis rods slightly apart. I had to take about 1.5mm out from each part of the X-Gantry for the gantries to match properly.

I hope this helps!

Hi, thanks a lot for your feedback, it always helps !

I wanted to make a hole to fit a m3 nut but I forgot to do it. Though, if you just put a m3 screw there, it will prevent the pulley from going off and the screw will be blocked axially by the X-axis rod. The 20T pulleys do not rub on mine but it is quite tight indeed so with different print settings or a different printer it may cause problems. Same goes for the X-gantry (I guess you are taking about the whole X-axis carrier) because mine lined perfectly with the frame. I'd like to find a way to give a bit more of flexibility on these parts bit it's not easy.

Hey,

I made some adjustments:

I reduced the hole size for the idlers to a M3 hexagon screw. It fits OK and taps the plastic on the other side.
I increased the clearance for the idlers a bit. Roughly.
I inserted a 4 mm spacing between the two parts and made the motor's screws adjustable. This way the two X gantry parts may have a small gap between them (or maybe not) but the motor holds the whole assembly together anyway, so it allows the X gantry to be slightly adjustable in terms of length.

It's not really perfect but this worked for me. I hope it helps!

Can you make a remix of the Thing with all your mods? It would help me with all versions.

Sure, I'll get to it soon.

You should make a bigger one

Yep, I didn't start yet but I'll probably do one

Sorry didn’t reed the description

Could you give us the arduino setting’s for this printer?

Hello. I'm just ordering the parts to build one and I am wondering if there is any real advantage of using 8mm linear rails instead of 8mm aluminum rods? Are aluminum rods too soft or too shaky? Aluminum rods are dirt cheap here so I would very much prefer buying them rather than ordering steel rails. Thanks in advance!

Hi, you can use aluminum tubes if you want. The assembly will be easier and it's not too shaky (a bit more than steel but it's fine). The first prototype I made only had aluminum tubes and it worked well with the bearings.

Thanks! Very interesting design!

How can it be printed in parts? (for a smaller print base?)

You can use 3D builder if you have Windows 10. It's really easy to use for cutting parts. I think Cura can do it aswell.

Really cool design. Thanks for sharing.

Thank you ! I can't wait to see it printed by others !