Dump of reworked / upgraded parts I created when building JKSniper's universal 3D printer enclosure (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2792618 "3D Printer Enclosure")
- Remote on/off switch mount (that switches the wireless module detailed here. I had fun and changed the filament color on the first bridging layer behind the text (and for a few subsequent layers) to make the text stand out. I used 12mm & 19mm push switches (here & here ). You will need a 1k - 2k resister in series with the LED for the higher 24v voltage.
- Clips to neatly mount internal cables
- Threaded vents that stay open. Can easily be scaled in X-Y direction to fit your preferred hole size. I'm in America with mixture of non-metric and metric hardware!
- Magnet door handles and catches that match door seals (use 8x3mm round magnets)
- Hinges (use M3 round head bolts as pins). Mounts to side of extrusion and front of panel. Use 'hinge door plate' as captive for nuts. I used black 10-32 Button Head Socket Cap Screws to fasten. Note that the hinge is fitted with one half "flipped" so when closed it is at 90 degrees and 180+ degrees when open. I notched the edges of the door to fit.
- LED lighting mounts (to support ends of strip to prevent peeling)
- Door seal that is modeled to fit the 80/20 1.5" extrusion slot covers -- can be easily fastened with superglue and then covered with 1/8" neoprene foam seal. Will need to print with supports for the little lip at the end -- print a bunch and cut to fit frame. Miter corners. The 1/8" seal will bring the surface up to the inside plane of the door if use use my hinges.
Also see my dual PSU mount
I printed in PLA at .2mm layers expect for the threaded vent parts where I used .15mm layers. It should be obvious which orientation to print. You will need to enable support for the end of the door strip to hold up the overlapping section. Hopefully photos show how parts are used.
Update 6/25/2018: FIxed "Hinge Frame Side.stl" which was erroneously uploaded