Old design can be found here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2902928 . HERE is my 2nd design for the Adafruit AIY kit for Raspbery Pi 3 B. Took a few weeks to print mostly due to filament jams I was having....After switching to 100 percent infill for all the torso parts but the helmet, I was able to get it all printed. This build is about 18 inches tall with hands not raised above the head. I remxed Jace1969 awesome costume design, but I did use the helmet from Odino https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:90325 because I needed to be able to open the faceplate for access to the arcade button. I used the screw holes for the voice hat from Adabot Google AIY Voice Kit by Adafruit ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2709085 ). I used the speaker mount from dfoles design Meeseeks Box - Google AIY Voice for the Pi Zero W (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2329814). The ball joints were made using ball joint by chicuco (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:196372). This build uses 2 neopixel 12 rings for the hands and 1 neopixel 16 ring for the Arc reactor. They were added after the fact so they dont exactly fit but they work fine, I used hot glue to keep them in place. I used 7 milky white 10mm LEDs , 2 in the helmet, 3 in the reactor, and 1 for each palm....The LEDS and Neopixels are controlled and powered by an Arduino uno. I plan on putting the white LEDs on the AIY kit soon so they can be voice activated, but as for now they are always on(EDIT: I got the voice activation working, see below ). Some of the files may be redundant, just pick what suits your printer....Also some need to be mirrored. You can figure out what you need easily. If anything is missing please let me know because I have it, I was printing and designing on the fly, so I tried to include what I ended up using. Good luck and happy printing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ei4zIvvzDWk https://youtu.be/C2rvD73zJ7k
Helmet should be fine printed at less infill but the body pieces should be printed @ 100%. I had a better success rate that way. Also the back piece took almost 60 hours by itself, as the only way I had to position it on the print bed made for a crap ton off support inside but left the outside surface smooth. If I wouldve known it was going to take that long, i wouldve printed it face down and just put more effort into finishing. Also when printing Base top, there was a weird spot on top where there were a few levels of nothing but support, then printed another surface....This is not needed and will fall off when support is removed. It was at around 97% when this happened to me. I let it keep going, then removed it as it was a thin layer. Wear gloves if you superglue parts, its no fun and will mess up your hands.
had to add a zip tie to tension the shoulder ball joint enough to hold position. Once it is tightened right, it is prone to slipping off to the left or right, so I added a few drops of super glue to keep zip tie in position. Super glue holds this bad boy together, with a little hot glue here or there (especially for all the LEDs). The long part of the ball joints (shaft on the ball LOL) is prone to breaking so do not glue shafts into holes unless using hot glue(removable)....the last time a post broke @ the elbow, i was all out of glue so I tried Acetone which worked waaaaay better than superglue....I will be using this to join ABS parts from now on, it seemed to make the parts stronger after gluing as opposed to super glue which still may break @ gluing point. I would also recommend adding zip ties to the elbow joint too, as my left arm is beggining to lose tension from twisting a lot
I also got all of my wires from the inside of some old cat5e cables which house 8 diff colored sturdy wires. They are very thin which allows good clearance around the elbow and wrist joints...I printed a small square in white and cut out a thin strip which i hot glued into faceplate (see pics). It is still transparent enough to let light shine through, but hides LEDS in the helmet. I was able to print the base @ 5 percent infill.....
Modified the Python code for controlling LEDs via Voice Control using the Adafruit Aiy Voice Kit and Raspberry Pi 3....https://dronebotworkshop.com/hacking-google-aiy-voice-kit-2/
is where I got the code and modified it to my needs. Each LED has a 300 ohm resistor connected to its Positive terminal (the longer pin)...Eyes connected together, the 3 Leds in the chest are connected together, and the hands are connected together. The Picture shows how I have them connected to the voice hat servo pins 0(eyes), 1(arc/chest), 2(hands), and 3(GROUND -). I will enclose the Python code, just put it in your voice examples folder and run it through the terminal. You can edit the code to make her say whatever you want. My commands are as follows:
all systems on
all systems off
I want to add wav files for sound effects but I dont know enough yet. What I did try didnt work so I have some more learning to do in my free time. I will post an update when I get it working :) Also the LEDs seem to be a little less bright when connected to the Adafruit as opposed to the Arduino which was brighter but no voice control....When the Neopixels are active, the only LEDs that really matter are the eyes....but it still looks good with everything on. I have not figured out how to control the Neopixels yet so they are using a stock sketch.
Added another cable tie to each shoulder joint (for a total of 2 on each shoulder) and also put a cable tie on each elbow joint. Used super glue to attach one end of tie to the joint, then after it dried, pulled it as tight as possible and glued the other end down to maintain the tension on the ball of the ball joint. Once this was done, the arms were able to hold their position very good, no matter the pose. After doing this I taped off the robot and spray painted it with Colonial Red paint and primer I got from Walmart. Used Acrylic gold and silver after it dried, then hit with 2 clear gloss coats. Painted Pics added.
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