I have uploaded the soft chine version of the hull and it worked OK, but I had problems with it plowing due to the extra nose weight. This led me to create another boat from scratch which I recommend you print instead of this one. You can find it here:
The new boat has adjustable thrust angle which lets you tune for plowing/porpoising . I will leave this one up in case it helps someone by providing an idea or something to remix.
This is a prototype step hull I created after printing and enjoying SlightlyAbnormal's fantastic model . A step hull is faster than a flat bottom hull because of the air trapped under the back portion of the hull at speed. This lessens the drag and makes the hull more slippery in both forward and sideways motion. I'm hoping this will not only give the model a higher top speed, but allow it to drift like the real thing.+
I am currently printing the hull and will update with pictures and performance after I have assembled the model. The rest of the parts fit together well as I have used them on 2 other prototypes, and they work well.
This hull works very well in smooth water, and the step definitely works. In choppy water the chines can dig in and bring the boat to an immediate stop. It is impressive how violently it stops, and so frustrating! I'm going to soften the chines and try again. For the sake of time I will print some 'wings' to epoxy to the side to form the new shape and upload the new shape if it works out.
I have uploaded two versions of the top plate. One has a cutout for a heat sink mount. The heat sink mount should be printed out of ABS or PETG to avoid melting and fits an 11mmx11mm heatsink. This is a small mount because I am using a quadcopter ESC. The hole in the top plate is 25mmx25mm and the top plate is 3.99mm thick so you can easily make a mount to fit your heat sink. The lid is designed to have 1/16" neoprene foam tape installed to seal against the top plate ring. I have also split the hull into two pieces in case your Z height is less than 400 inches. The split is right on the step to decrease the importance of a smooth seam. I prefer to use epoxy to join pieces together since it makes a strong and water tight seal. The Motor Mount Washer part is designed to be printed at 80% infill to use as a 'washer' between the bolt heads and the top plate. Print this out of ABS or PETG if you can. PLA has a way of squeezing out of the way over time. I am printing using 1 wall and .6mm nozzle. I will paint the model after it is assembled to increase it's water proofing and protect the PLA from the sun (white paint reflects the heat).