This is a fusion of the three modifications I already publish, but the structure is widened to fit a 300mmx300mm hotbed. Again, 98% of what you need is Geeetech i3 hardware, a few 3d printed parts, a little drilling, cutting and assembling. This modification will fit the plywood version of the printer as that is the one I own, but with some modifications I guess would fit other Geeetech i3's versions.
This modification requires longer GT2 belt for X axis, so the original one will be short.
The reason for this modifications was to make the most out of the hardware that is on the printer and to improve some areas where I thought it would improve performances.
If printing only PLA I would just replace the borosilicate glass with a bigger one or better, have one plate made of aluminium to sit on top of the small hotbed.
If you print ABS you probably need a proper heatbed so the best choice is to get a 300x300mm one.
The printing area of the full modification will get to 300mm for X, 300mm for Y, 250mm for Z.
There are assembly files that should be clear enough about how all goes together and some explainations down here. In case I missed something and you need extra help just drop a message.
---------------- X axis extension ------------------
Here you have to cut in the middle the lower center vertical plate where the Z motors supports are fixed on. The mounts for Z motors do no change anchoring places.
Just cut it roughly in the middle and join the parts with 2 pieces of "X axis part 1". There are 6 holes on each plate, the outer two of them will fit the ones of the wooden plate, for the middle ones you have to drill or fix with tapping screws. For the inner two you need "X axis part 6" spacer as there is nothing in between.
The front ("X axis part 2" and "X axis part 3") and rear ("X axis part 4" and "X axis part 5") extensions fits on existing plates without any cutting, just one hole each plate to be drilled or fixed with tapping screw. You will need four M10 nuts and bolts to fit in the old holes of the threaded bars. The Y axis threaded bars interax is widened by 90mm.
A the topside, "XZ axis part 1" and "XZ axis part 2" are to replace the top plate fixing the Z axis vertical axis and two pieces of "Z axis part 1" will extend the vertical plates that hold electronics and power supply.
------------------ Y axis extension ------------------
The modification here is pretty simple, just remove the bearing holding plates under the hotbed support plate and replace them with "Y axis part 1" and Y axis part 2". You will need to drill 4 holes for the cable ties that holds the bearings, plus an extra screw that hold the plate in the middle. The rest fits on otiginal Geeetech holes. Nuts should go on the topside of the hotbed holding plate.
Depending on your hotbed adjustment knobs and width of your hotbed, you will need to make sure the knobs will stayclear of the front and back plate. In case your hotbed is 300mm wide there should be no need of modifications.
"Y axis part 3" is a plate to widen the supporto for the hotbed and you will need four of them. They are fit for a 300x300mm hotbed (real dimensions should be 328x328 and holes interaxis 320x320).
Y axis motor stay on the original support as well as the belt idler pulley.
"Y axis part 4" are hotbed adjustment nuts.
----------------- Z axis extension --------------------
Parts are "Z axis part 1", "Z axis part 2" and "Z axis part 3".
Part 1 are the supports for the Z motors (you need to print two of this), raised to regain the loss in height by mounting the hotend under the X axis rods. The other two are the supports for Z motors; they fit on the existing supports, just remove the topside and mount this ones. You need to drill 3 holes each support or use tapping screws.
----------------- Extruder and carriage modification ---------------------
The extruder has to be disassembled from the support plates and the hotend
You need 4 big 6mm washers and 3 small ones and 3 M6 nuts. "hotend assembly" shows the assembled hotend.
This will fit into the "extruder carriage part 1", that will be joined to "extruder carriage part 2" and "extruder carriage part 3" by means of two 3mmx25mm tapping screws. The bearings slide in the support and then can be locked with two 3mmx15mm tapping screws or two M3x15mmbolt with nuts.
The original long linear bearings fits fine, they will just extend a few millimeters out each side of the extruder support. If you want to gain extra 10mm of X carriage excursion, you can replace the bearings with LM8UU ones that are the same as Y carriage ones.
The extruder drive just needs to have "extruder part 4" fitted and an M6 air tube fitting screwed into the hole where the filament comes out. Geeetech extruder drive can be mounted for left or right version and the plate has two outgoing holes for the air hose fitting, just choose the side your extruder will feed the filamento trought.
--------------- X axis parts -----------------
The other parts for the X axis are "X axis part 7" (two prints of this) that are the side supports for the axis itself, "X axis part 8" that is the belt tensioner plate, and "X axis part 9" (two prints) that are the wobble fix for Z axis threaded bars that has to be screwed on the Z rod's nuts.
This is the printer I own:Geeetech i3 W
You can search this model on ebay IT (and Europe) here:search eBay IT for Geeetech i3 W
You can search this model on eBay US :search eBay US for Geeetech i3 W
I created these eBay feeds where you can find all common filaments and spare parts at the best prices. These are just links to selected eBay items, where I normally buy spare parts and materials for my printer, prices are excellent and products are good. If you buy something from here you will support me a little bit and allow me to keep creating these kind of projects.
Volcano hotend nozzles
PU GT2 belts
LM serie linear bearings
NEMA 17 motors
3d printers 150-200$
3d printers 200-300$
3d printers 300-500$
3d printers 500-1000$
3d printers 1000-2000$
3d printers 2000-5000$
Pellets for filament extruding machines
Filament extruding machines