Petsfang Bowden Direct with Bondtech BMG for CR10/S/4, Ender3 and Tevo Tornado

by dpetsel Jun 16, 2018
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The included wirestrain doesn't work well using a LEFT mounted BLT and the Ender 3 as it causes the bundle of wires to be pinched between the fang assembly and the right upright. What worked for me was to just drill a couple of holes on the back of the bracket under where the bondtech door opens and cable tied it there.

Great design! I would like to modifiy this to use with directdrive without bowden, is it possible that you share your CAD files? thnxs

Could you answer me one question?

E3D V6 hotend can be mounted inside the BMG. Are your mounts compatible with this type of build?

I ask because I downloaded but I can't see the way to mount this and I suppose it kind of loses the purpose of direct drive if you have to connect a bowden tube between the extruder and the hotend...


Yeap - could be worthwhile knowing this before I go and print the thing! :o I'd appreciate any info you can provide!

Since the BMG and similar extruders (ie: E3D Titan) require you to use a length of bowden tube, even when you are mounting the hot ends directly to the extruder, I opted to add approximately 10mm to that tube to allow the exttruder to sit closer to the X axis allowing more mass over the axis of movement. This reduces ringing and ghosting.
Hope that explains it.

Thanks a bunch for replying, Dave! :) Will give it a shot now, got some extra capricorn stuff in a box, too!

I did this upgrade on my cr10 mini and everything works great minus a horrific high pitch noise on the 5015 blower fan - anyone have this issue? you don't get the noise when the fan runs at 100% but at 100% its moving way too much air - any ideas?

yes this is PWM noise. you can put a capacitor across the fan leads, or you can implement fan_fix in your firmware. this is a well described phemomon with good fixes out there on the internet.

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Thanks for the reply. I saw the fixes online but mine makes the noise as soon as the fan spins not just 100%. Actually I couldn’t even run mine at 100% as it would move far too much air. 50% appeared best but that was basically the loudest) I’ve since printed adapter to use the factory fan and seems fine for now. Thanks.

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Comments deleted.


This works. I would have made 12mm and 18mm sensor mounts, as well, but no left side mounts were provided for them. If David would like to include them, I'll be happy to remix them to work with the E5

I can't get your pictures to open. Did the petsfang base fit your ender 5?

Has anyone designed a vertical wire strain for this BMG direct drive set up? I need something that can support the ABL and blower fan wires on the right side about 50mm high. I was thinking it looks like a mounting spot would be the lower mounting hole for the blower fan.. Any help would great. Thanks

Are you guys doing anything with the pid settings? Since I've used this, I can't make it though a print, without a E1 thermal runaway. Anything over about 15-20% fan speed, gives error, and some times when it prints a horizontal surface.
I tried pid tuning, multiple times, with fan on 100% and close to the build surface, with very little change.
Cr10, bmg, mks gen L, genuine e3d v6, with volcano and silicone sock. 1.0 tip printing at .6. It's definitely needing more than 20%, with the 1.0.

Any ideas?

Would this work with a BMG-M and Mosquito hotend?

What screws are used to mount the hotend fan? Does not measure like M3.

5015 fan needs m4. Other screws are m3.

Very nice design !
Printed the base in Carbon PETG, very strong part now.
Only issue i have on my CR-10S, is the 2 holes on the back of the base.
Also with the regular Petsfang same problem.
I have to make the outer diameter of the holes bigger, it does not slide over the metal bushes.
Will post a make once finished, waiting for the BMG at the moment.
I use the original Bondtech 25mm stepper motor with triangelabs BMG

Can you please create a version that will allow this to work with linear rail or provide the solidworks or fusion 360 file for others to remix? I tried importing the .stl base into solidworks or fusion 360 but not having much success. it keeps importing as a surface and does not seem to be water tight so that a solid can be created from it...

have you found something?

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Does this work with the original motor (nema 17) or do you have to buy another smaller motor?

i went with the E3d slimline motor (Nema 17) and it just barely powerful enough when paired with a Volcano 0.6 mm nozzle. I had to run closer to 90-100% of the stepper motor's max rated current as well as not run it at print speeds >40mm/s. Waiting on the E3d compact but powerful motor to arrive... If you're using the 0.40mm nozzle, i think you may be okay.

Yu can use the original motor but it's heavy, so better buy a pancake it costs a few bucks and much lighter

Anyone has the correct measument that you need for the Capricorn tube when u use a Bondtech Bowden adapter for PTFE to the MicroSwiss Hotend please ? It's very dificult to measure :(

Did you ever figure out the length of the capricorn tube???

No se si solo me pasa a mi... pero esta pieza, BT_E3Dv6_40_mmCAP_6.15.stl (la cubierta donde va el ventilador), al solo tener 2 tornillos arriba no agarra del todo el v6 y la parte de abajo siempre tine un juego...por lo que al imprimir yo creo que esto hace que el hotend se pueda mover....seria ideal que tambien agarrada abajo.... A no ser que lo este instalando mal.

Does anyone know of a nice cable management system that will work with this? Tevo Tornado Gold

StockBT_18mmEZABL6.14.stl appears to be mirrored along one axis.

If mounted to the base as shown in the images, it's facing backwards and cannot be installed as the X gantry is in the way. If mounted upside down, the EZABL is too high and cannot detect the bed.

I swapped it out with the EZABL mount from the PetsfangV2 for now until I can print a flipped version.

I think StockBT_CR10_base_6.15_LEFT_BLTv2.stl and StockBT_Tevo_base_6.15_LEFT_BLTv2.stl may be misnamed (swapped), too. I printed the CR10 base, but it did not fit as it has an extra tab on the bottom that collided with the heat sink. This extra tab is not present on the Tevo base, or in the PetsfangV2 CR10 base.

Thanks for making and sharing this. Any chance you can make this to work with the linear rail mod? I made it work by dremeling out quite a bit of plastic that was interfering with the linear rail mounting bolts; however, its not pretty and likely not as stiff anymore. Here is the linear x rail parts I used: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3031918 Thanks in advance!

Linear Rail X Axis Mod for Ender 3

Hi, I'm printing the pieces to mount the bmg and bltouch. I printed those for ender 3 with the stock extruder so I find myself having to place the bltouch on the left. I'm recompiling the firmware to load it after mounting everything but I have a big problem. I enter the offset values ​​-47 and -1 but when I go to recompile I have the following error:
static_assert (RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION <= MAX_PROBE_X, "RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION is outside the probe region.");

static assertion failed: RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION is outside the probe region.

I realized that as is the firmware 1.1.9 I can't put negative values ​​in x. I should change something but I have no idea what ... can you help me?
First I had the offset at -43 and -5 and I was quietly complaining about it.

I think I solved it, I completely recompiled everything starting from the vanilla firmware 1.1.9 and I made all the changes. Now he filled it out without errors.

This is a proper Ender 5 base for this system, but it does not have mount points for sensors, as I do not use any. I will remix it at some point and add sensor mounts, since I'm sure people will want them, but this base fits the Ender 5 properly and supports this system as it should.

So I have a triabglelabs bmg which allows direct mounting of the v6 to the extruder like a titan does.. do you have a version of thismount setup for this? I’ve been wanting to print this forever and my bmg finally arrived.. got to looking at it and it appears there’s a gap.. kinda strikes me as odd.

Where are the missing files?

I have the trianglelabs clone that allows you to fit the heatsink directly to the extruder. Is there a print that allows the use of this without splitting the 2 and putting some pfte between them?

Could you publish the piece "CR10_E3DV6_MANUAL_BASE_V7.5" to mount it on a axis linear guide MGN12H?
Thank you

Comments deleted.

What do you recommend the microswiss or the standard ender 3 hotend, I have both

You can't go wrong with the Microswiss :)

I printed the BT_Volcano_Base and the holes don't line with my with Tevo Tornado. I had to use a Dremel to shift the holes in the printed mount to mount it to the plate so it could be screwed in. Not sure if anyone else had that issue but I just wanted to point it out. I'm using the green Tevo Tornado.

what on earth is the best way to print the duct? i cant add manual supports under the where the bolts connect to the mount so they are just going to print in mid air

Flat face down I found is the best for good layers and strength.

Is there a best practice with fan speed? I just printed something simple (PLA) at 100% on the fan and got terrible layer separation.

I use 30% for most overhangs, never more than 80%. Your fan may very depending on it's specifications. Always tune your parts for the best fan speed.

Is there a mgn12 compatible x carriage that can be used with this? Cr-10 machine.

How flush to the top of the heatsink does this setup sit? I'm looking into getting a nimble DD system and am trying to find a fan setup that works well with it, but they currently only have mounts for the stock metal fan shroud which sit flush the heatsink

What type of filament is recommended for this print? Does it matter for sturdiness?

I’d like to get a Bondtech, E3D v6 and BL Touch setup on my Ender 3. Will this work?

Use a high temp, like ABS. At least for part cooling. If you print PLA, high temps from PETG or ABS can deform the shroud.
If you never print ABS then PETG is a good way to go.

I just want to say thank you for designing this , I am loving this setup on my Ender 3 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

hey m8 nice i would do the same modification on my CR-20 Pro Bondtech extruder is on his way :) can i use this with the BL touch like you did without any modification on the STL files or if what i need to do please ?

Has anyone made a duct to accept dual 5015 fans? I am wanting to use two that have a very low cfm (about 2.8cfm each) since they are seriously the quietest blowers i have ever owned! Thank you!

Link to the fans? But I also agree. Dual fans would be nice to run them at half speed to quiet them down

I designed a dual 5015 fan duct for the ender 3 with the stock or microswiss hot end for this direct drive set up, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3583632, let me know what you think of it please

Dual 5015 fan duct for Petsfang bondtech directdrive

Is there a list of necessary hardware for installation?

Thanks for this! But I'm wondering if there is a file list for what to print? I know that the description says that the mounting is the same as the Titan Direct mod, but the files are names differently for that mod. Just want to make sure I print the right parts.

Is there a dual fan version of the duct?

Further down in the comments he said he was working on one. That was back in October of last year though. Probably moved on to other things. I find that a single 5015 is more than enough cooling. Only reason to have two fans is to run them slower for lower noise and still have good cooling.

Hey @dpetsel, first I just wanted to say THANK YOU for this DD setup. Just got it up and running and I can already tell it's far superior to the crappy stock bowden setup on my Ender 3.

Can you please share what retraction settings you use (speed/acceleration/jerk)? Thanks again.

Well I just printed all of the pieces for this and just realized that my Bondtech is the wrong orientation. Silly mistake on my part. Would it be possible to mirror the orientation of the top section of the Base? I am really hoping that that is possible.

Mirroring the base will put all the backplate screw locations in the wrong place.

Yes, that makes sense. I meant mirror the platform that the Bondtech and stepper attach to so that , when view from the front, the stepper would be on the right. The lower half of the base be unchanged.

Am I missing something or is the E3DV6 30mm cap missing in this zip?
I printed another one from another version of the Fang, but the gaps are not aligning nicely.

edit : and another question, what is the best position to print the base on this one, because I'm having a hard time getting good quality printing it standing up.... but if that is indeed the best orientation.... I must try to get it better. ;-)


We opted to engineer this mod with just the 40mm cap that totally captures the airflow to the heatsink and exhausts the used hot air to the sides.

Does anyone have a list of the hardware needed to mount this on an Ender 3 with stock hot end (without ABL)? The petsfang website is down for me. Thanks

Hello, which base file to print for MicroSwiss Hotend? Thanks

Buenas tardes, una pregunta habría alguna versión para el Bondtech izquierdo, porque el diseño por lo veo es solo para el derecho, porque me chocaría el muelle del BMG con el ventilador de capa 5015, no?

Sí. Es solo para la mano derecha de BMG.

Hello, is it compatible with the direct drive print head AIO evo home hotends and a bltouch?

I haven't physically mounted an AIO evo but the mounting point dimensions are the same as the E3Dv6. Any mount made for the v6 should work for the Evo.

Really loving this setup. Only issue I'm having is with the bondtech mount on the top for the V6 version, It's a little weak for the stock CR-10S motor. Also would love to see slots to put nuts for the fang mount on this version like the bullseye. Great work on all of these designs.

Comments deleted.

what blower fan is used?

A 5015 centrifugal is being used. 3.8-6 CFM is adequate. This falls in the specs on almost every 5015.

Any Idea if this will work on a Ender 5? I have EZABL, Bondtech with a E3DV6

I have a CR-10, the Bondtech BMG, the EZABL (not the mini), and a Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend.

I printed the fang, mounts, and EZABL mount, but I had an issue with the ABL. The mount was way too high. The EZABL should be a couple mm above the bed. With the files in the package (I used StockBT_18mmEZABL6.14) the EZABL was too high above the bed, even when I removed the nuts as high as they could go.

I used the ABL mount from the Petsfang Duct for the stock CR10 (file name ALL_18MM_EZABL_X+48_Y-2_Right_7.5) and that seemed to mount fine.

When I update my firmware, will I need to change the x and y coordinates for the ABL? Will it be the Bondtech coordinates? The old ones? Something different?

Hello, i am in the same scenario as you, but instead i have the mini ezabl, i have the same problem with height of the sensor.
I was wondering if you figured out the correct offset values.

Whats is the best print orientation for the E3Dv6 base? Like in the STL file with support from the build plate only?

Hmm, just had a complete malfunction where I hsd to dismantle the petsfang and entire hotend, I had a big filament clog in the heatsink (nothing of this of course the fault of Petsfang, purely operator error). It made me wonder, is it a good idea to use Capricorn like I did for this build to lead filament from the BMG to the V6? Maybe the tighter tolerance is good for some applications, but more likely to jam up inside this build? I've already cut a new length of capricorn for the rebuild, but wonder if I should go with the no name white PTFE instead?

During testing we tried both. We use stock white PTFE and Capricorn XS. We had no problems with either so on my machines I use the XS. Since their is not much heat in the heat sink of the all metal hot ends I think the white would be fine. I also slightly countersink the entry of the tube and chamfer the outlet side installed into the hot end to make filament feeding easier and make the fit vertically tight.

First of all thank you DPETSEL for creating this - do you by any chance know the exact length of PTFE that needs to be cut to lead filament from the BMG to the V6??

Thank you in advance

Do you have any designs, or maybe any in progress, for a direct feed with the stock extruder and hot end?

I don't. Their are several mods already that allow the Creality extruder to be added to my Bullseye. If you are talking the Tornado, the stock extruder will fit my E3D Titan mod. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2907538

Petsfang Direct for E3D Titan Direct Extruder for Micro Swiss/ E3Dv6/ or Stock CR10 & Tevo Tornado hot ends
by dpetsel

Hi, first of all, thank you for sharing your work.
I currently have a CR-10 S4 with a Bondtech BMG (bowden) and a Micro Swiss hotend. I would like to move the Bondtech to the X carriage, thus converting to direct extrusion. Will this design do this?

Thanks, have you tried it?

Not on the s4, I'm running it now with the stock hot end on a ender 3. I've seen the set up on a few s4 though and they seem happy with it.Made a huge difference for me.

That's great, thanks for getting back to me. My S4 has the drop in Micro Swiss hotend that fits the same as the stock one, it should be just the same. I guess my main concern is about the mating between the Bondtech and the hotend, I'll download the files and have a look how it is done.
Thanks again for your input

David, thanks for this. I will be converting my CR10S to a Bondtech direct drive and am very grateful to find this Petsfang duct. I already am using your regular fang on my Ender3 and love it.

Amazing work @dpetsel! Any plans on modifying the Petsfang V2 variant (single or dual 5015 fan variant) like this?

I agree! loving this direct drive setup for my BMG but would also really love a dual 5015 version of this.

Same here, I actually had to uninstall my old dual 5015 setup after converting. I love this fan mod, So elegant compared to that hulking beast. That being said, I miss that extreme bridging.

Anyone print air duct with PETG? I'm having issues when printing it as suggested by designer (laying down on flat side). The layers and area where it overhangs curls up every time. I've already experimented with slower speeds, as slow as 25mm/s, on through 50mm/s. I'm using eSun PETG. Nozzle temps range from 230c - 250c (suggested by eSun)...with part cooling fan up to 30%. With part cooling fan higher than 30%, PETG will cool too fast and not bond to other layers. FYI, I'm already using this air duct (printed in PLA), but want to replace with PETG since area near nozzle softens/warps a bit from radiant heat from nozzle. Also using Slic3r PE....so not sure how well or not, their supports are. They are a pain to remove too.

What material is recommended to print this with? Is PLA ok for the hot end mounts?

Hello David, thank you so much for sharing your designs. You are very talented. I'm looking to make the Petsfang designed to be used with the Bondtech direct extruder and E3D V6 hot end. The "no logo" file has a logo on it. Any chance you could upload one without the logo?

The no logo takes off the Bondtech logo shown in the picture. The file available has our corporate logo on it on the back side.

Comments deleted.

OK I got it all figured out. If anyone is using the BL Touch with this mount I have the firmware for this already set up. Make sure you uncomment out define Bi-Linear auto leveling and set your probe off set just like Dpetsel said according to which ever mount your using. Make sure your settings are set to what I have below. I numbered them for you. Just search for each of these in your firmware. I also have my Simplify3D FFF for PLA PETG and NinjaFlex with the BLTouch settings.

I customized my own GCODE for the startup so when the bed is done heating the Auto level will start and while the auto level is working the extruder is heating up. Once the extruder is done heating the print will begin. I have an auto purge int he beginning as well. So far my prints are perfect. You will have to double check your Z Offset and manually change that in your Tevo Tornado from the control box. Mine is set to -0.45 Z Offset and it works perfectly. Yours might be different.

1: uncomment

define BLTOUCH

2: set up the off set number based on the petsfang mount you are using. The + means the BLTouch is on the right side. Which is the mount You should be using for a Tevo Tornado and this mount. The only one you will change is the first one

define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER +36 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]

define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]

define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]

3: You can see I uncommented the Bilinear




4: I set the grid from 3 to 4. This gives you 12 points to check

// Set the number of grid points per dimension.



5: OK so for this one I set the LEFT PROBE to 40. This number had to be higher that than the +38 offset or the firmware would error out. This is if the BL Touch is on the right side.. The Right and Back probe was 170 but change to to 280 like I did. This keeps the probe inside your max bed dimensions.

// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).





That's it. If anyone wants my copy of the firmware with this already set up just message me. I have a custom screen name on mine so I will default that back to Tornado for you.

I'm interested in your startup GCODE if possible. I would much prefer my auto-level to run while the extruder is heating up, rather than after.

Comments deleted.

The BL touch will be on the right side so I need to make any other adjustments besides the x and y offsets you said which where +36 and 0. Do I need to switch up any other numbers in the firmware.

Everybody asks how to print the duct, my question is, best orientation to print the base? (BMG/V6)

This is the same question, I was going to ask.

@dpetsel - any plans / tips for some of us that want to print these lighter / thinner using CF? Any plans for "stronger / less" plastics versions?

Hello Dave,

I have been watching your work and i have to say a thank you for offering this.
I would like to ask though. Why is the piece on top of the base(green), between the bmg and the e3d v6 needed?
What if you remove it to bring those two flush?

Kind regards,

There are a couple of reasons for this orientation. In in all of my designs, especially the direct extruder models I try to keep as much weight over the X carriage to keep jerk movement to a minimum given the possible play in the v-wheels. With the 2 parts mounted together it leaves a longer moment to the X axis and would promote more motion of the mount during fast lateral movements. I find that the weight over the X axis tends to dampen the motion giving you better prints. Also on the BMG extruder the back plate needs to pivot open to load filament. If the extruder was brought down to that position the back plate would interfere with access. Since even the totally direct application of the extruder to the E3D hot end requires a small section of bowden tube I feel an extra 15mm of bowden was worth the extruder location.

I've noticed there seems to be a fair amount of "flex" on the motor/bondtech mount when performing fast retractions (50mm/s). I don't know if this has any impact or not, but I slowed down my retraction to be safe.

Any videos of the flexing? I am running 60mm/s on mine with no movement. Is your extruder tight to the motor? The bracket uses compression to hold itself to the mounting plate.

Unfortunately I don't have a video and already slapped on a bracket that I glued to the bondtech which mounts the to the screw holes on the top of the base. This took all flex out for me.

As a note, I was using a full sized nema17 motor at the time as my pancake hadn't come in yet, so that very well have contributed to the issue.

@dpetsel any chance for a 2 fan version?

Comments deleted.

Out of curiosity, are the ducts with logos (like the Bondtech one) available somewhere?
When saying mounting ABL to the left or right, is that when watching the Petsfang front on as in most pictures, or left from the mounting side perspective (in most of the pictures I would say it's mounted to the right).
Just took advantage of Black Friday prices and ordered an E3D V6 full kit and a Bondtech BMG with pancake stepper. Will get an EZABL as well.

Hi David!

Can you confirm if the PTFE Tubing pathway is 100% straight from the BMG to the E3D heatbreak? Last time i printed this, it was slightly slanted which gave me issues.

According to all dimension from Bondtech and E3D the dimensions are accurate and indexed to the centers for the genuine extruder and hot end parts. I'm not sure about any clone dimensions.

When using stock hot end the BLTouch mounts don't adjust low enough to trigger the sensor for me.

You can use washers to lower it

hello, congratulations for the great work you do, I'm your fans. can you tell me if it is possible to use microswiss extruder on stockBT cr10 base?
thank you


What's the best orientation to print the duct? I'll be printing on an UP! mini (ABS) which does supports extremely well.

For duct i print as it is, if you put flat to bed it will look bad to the view due supports (Front part).
You need supports only at bed

Doesn't that impact the quality of the internal air charging fins?

Best print is laying flat face down. There are internal baffles in the top part of the duct to control turbulence and vibrations that have no support printed in the upright orientation. I have seen it printed upright at about a 60 degree angle with supports that print those baffles as internal overhangs and the print was successful.

I print mine vertical as said, ABS with brim, and raft. I find hard to remove it from bed after all. It printed great and the baffles come out ok. Printed with Prusa MK3.
I also tried flat to bed but it look ugly since support with abs make part look deformed

Glad it printed OK.
I printed over 50 of them with the flat orientation and found it was the best orientation for my printer.
They all came out exceptional. My Youtube channel has a lot of tests and prints.



FYI for this post, my measurements for this rig with the Bondtech BMG (w/PTFE adapter) was as follows:

19mm - inside of PTFE adapter
43.5mm - inside of Volcano (Tevo Clone) w/PTFE heat sink
7.5mm - top of PTFE on Volcano heat sink to top lip of mount
2mm - between top of lip and extruder

72mm PTFE length needed (total)

I cut some Capricorn XS to 72mm with a PTFE cutting jig (to keep it flush) and chamfered the top (inside for ease of filament insertion. Inserted and tested, works great.

Thx for the info m8!

Did you ever know you're my hero? I ran a bunch of prints in an enclosure and starting noticing extrusion issues. Took it all apart and found filament kinked up in it from where I didn't cut the right amount of length.

is there a PTFE adapter file? I just printed this mount for my CR-10S 500, went to install it only to find the V6 doesn't install into the BMG, but lower in the printed mount. I don't see any instruction on how to connect the two.

Probably should mention I printed: BT_E3Dv6_base_6.17_LEFT_BLT, BT_E3Dv6_40_mmCAP_6.15, BT_E3Dv6_Duct_NO_LOGO_6.14 and BLT__LEFT_Mount_ALL6.15. Did I not print the right parts for a BMG and E3D v6?

You can also order a Bondtech bowden adapter for the BMG that's milled (amazon has them I think). That's what I did for my authentic Bondtech BMG. The clones come with the adapter already but printing one probably works fine too.

Just to double check, is this the part I need for this assembly?
Anything else? (want to make sure before I order)
In the Titan direct assembly instructions there seems to be something on top of the V6 heatsink, mine is just the direct version with the little plastic insert and clip to lock the bowden tube, is that enough for this?

It is very similar to the E3D Titan mount. You can print the BMG printed clip if you didn't get one with your extruder. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3230038

Sorren4 above has been kind enough to include very exact measurements for the PTFE in the post you replied to.
Here is the Titan install. The BMG is very similar. You mount the hot end first, measure a length of PTFE, push it flush to the bottom of the E3D hot end, slide the BMG extruder over the PTFE and then mount your stepper to the extruder.

Hope that helps.

by lee0101

Do you need to insert a push fit into this?

ok I did get that adapter in my Titan. I'm using a standard V6 so I'll have to confirm the lengths but that's exactly what I needed. Thanks a ton!!

Thanks for that info Sorren.

Hi david,

Just wondering on a rough ETA for twin 5015 blower PETSfang bondtech direct drive mount. been using PETSfang double blower on my bowden cr10s-s5 and just bit the bullet and ordered a bondtech as I've been having loads of under extrusion and jams with using TPU using a Mk8 Macewen3d flexible friendly feeder. Looking to upgrade to direct drive as it seems like it would be better. Would a potential double blower bondtech direct drive be compatible with the TH3D EZABL? as in the right mount and overall dimensions in the firmware would things need to be changed or adjusted? anyhow may stick to bowden setup until you release one.

My setup is

CR10s-s5, e3d Volcano, twin 5015 blowers, (bondtech BMG)

Appreciate your work. Cheers.

Great job. I'm using Petsfang with my Ender 3. I ordered a BMG clone from Trianglelabs. Does your design require NEMA 17 pancake motor? Will it work with stock Ender 3 extruder motor?

It will work with either extruder.

There's any advantage of using non-geared bondtech Like Prusa MK3 over the BMG geared? For example: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3016298
So there is one less gear, more direct contact

Bondtech Style Extruder
Bondtech bowden end extruder full files

A geared setup will always be better mechanically. Both the BMG and the Prusa use basically the same extruder gears. The reason for a geared extruder is to gain the mechanical advantage of reduction gears to allow your stepper motor to work less. A reduction geared setup like the Bondtech or E3D Titan also use the reduction gear to produce more torque to push filament at a much lower static stepper motor torque.

Btw this is the most usefull mod for me, i have done tone of mods and never print as i want, with direct drive all my problems gone and result/quality is just like my Prusa MK3! Also i use clone of everything (v6+volcano+nozzle+extruder+bondtech+bltouch) is all clones and they work great so far :) Trianglelab parts are great...

Thank you for such detailed explanation! :)

After apply this mod my e-steps goes from 98 to 415. Is that normal?

Yes. The BMG is a geared, high torque, reduction drive. My E3D Titans are 460 Esteps.

Ok thanks. I have an spare 0.9º motor with double torque but also more mass (+/- 100g more), you think it worth it or extra mass is bad for X carriage? I'm using 3ed volcano, and so far i can print at 25mm^3/s without artifact

The extra mass has not been an issue. I actually get better prints with it. I print at 60mm/s typically. The .09 degree stepper might give you headaches as the stock is 1.8 degrees. I use a full size stock stepper with all my directs.

Ok can i also ask what stepper driver you use with your extruder?

I use the stock Tevo and Creality drivers.

I've made a filament sensor holder: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3152022

Filament Sensor Holder for Petsfang Direct Drive
by sn4k3

You may find that filament sensor location may be problematic depending on the location of your filament roll. I run direct extruders on all my machines. Even with my large format printers there is a great deal of tension at the filament entry to the extruder as it gets closer to the top. The filament angle of attack gets pretty sharp toward the top. Good luck. let us know how it works. Dave

Yes, i guess i will have to upper the filament location, i'm still converting things up, i will let know when i finish and test. People who run enclosures and clearance or spool from wall may not have problem. There are shorter filament sensors but this is what i have here, let's hope for the best :)
I have attached my max Z.
Maybe a spool holder like Prusa MK3 would help (Tilt at back)

Here's what I do. The long tube from the spool keeps a light, constant tension on the filament.

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It's possible to have the stock fan duct designed to use the standard cr-10s fan?

Stock fan is to anemic for this mod.

Why no dual fan version?

Working on it.

This is very exciting - a dual 5015 direct BMG petsfang would be exactly what i need. Any updates on the progress?

Nice! What i miss too is a cable holder, since i use BLT the stock cable adaptor will not fit. What are the current alternative to fix the cables near the hotend? (Right side)

I thought I had put the wirestrain up but I guess I didn't . The wirestrain file is up now. It mounts to the right V mount and route the cables under the extruder. It's the same mount as the Titan direct wiretrain. Dave

Thank you! Printing right now :)
You said Right V mount, but at your picture i see left side. What i'm missing? Also it will not be on the way of bltouch?
Also i upload my filament path using a clone bondtech bmg, not straight but not that bad either

Right side as you face the machine. Left side in actuality but most people are confused when I state it correctly.

Thanks, this design worked great and printed well. Everything snapped together perfect. I made an LED light bar that screws to the E3D V6 fan that works well with this setup.


E3D V6 LED Light Bar 30mm Fan Mount, Works with Petsfang, Tevo Tornado, CR10, Anet A8

Great design!
Any recommendations on how to print the cooling part?
Pretty complex for fdm

Any chance we can get an image of the recommended print orientations/support settings for each component for this BMG Direct version like you have done for the standard Petsfang? I've been spending way too long searching for some suggestions on the web in general & on the CR-10 facebook group & cant find clear answers. I really dont want to run a print for ages to realize i made a mistake & have to scrap it. I keep questioning the orientation with a few pieces.
I feel like that new BMG mount thats been getting a lot of hits lately in comparison to this petsfang could be due to the feeling that this will be too hard to print. Hope your able to help.

I shifted the motor mount 6mm added angled relief on the partially covered access holes and made a support bracket for the other side of the bondtech mini as it isn't practical to have support in the back of the mount on the mini like you have the bmg.

I was looking for info on the Mini. They don't make it anymore?

The mini dual drive gearset are still sold, it's what is in the mk3 extruder and is actually what is inside the BMG. You can take the mini gears out of a BMG even. Filastruder and Bondtech sell the mini gearset by themselves (so does aliexpress for better or worse). It isn't really sold ready to go with a casing though like the titan / BMG so it's expected you will print the housings yourself. The mini dual drive has some benefits over the BMG namely it can handle higher jerk / acceleration / and velocity than a geared extruder so I generally find it superior (and cheaper). Addtionally this config should work for a hobb goblin based extruder as well. I'm happy to test it out and provide source files if you have any interest.

Is this the Gearset inside the Prusa Mk3 Extruder?

I ended up modifying the direct titan e3dv6 version for the mini as it seemed the most mature design. I think you could collapse the bmg and titan variants together using a removable top plate kind of like you do for the stock hotends. I used heatserts but nut traps are probably more accessible to people. I think even on my printers that I want to run bowden I will print the direct version and simply put a decorative cap on it (maybe that holds the ptfe) and when I want direct drive I can swap the cap out with the appropriate mount. This lets you swap out the direct drive extruder between mk8, bmg, bondtech mini, titan etc. but leave the base unit alone and the wiring in place. Also the direct version ducts seem difficult to print at least in petg for me and getting a good bottom surface. I wonder if the duct couldn't be print flat but angled on installation. Obviously different people have different design processes and goals, but just my thoughts :) Thanks for your work.

I wasn't sure if you were aware but I have a very successful mod for the Prusa Mk3. Over the winter I am going to create a direct mount that utilizes the MK3 revision 3 Bondtech mount and adapt that to my Direct Line of extruders.

I did know about the mk3 version, I even posted a make of it :) I sold my mk3 and never got around to trying it out, adjusting the wire lengths etc. but it is very nice. I look forward to your new design, feel free to reach out if you would like any constructive criticism. I do wonder if having the motor perpendicular like the mk3 will create more compliance in the x gantry vs. having the motor body inline and CG closer to the wheels. This doesn't have the modified mini housings yet but I think it came together nicely: https://imgur.com/a/bGsB3A9

Yes. That looks clean.

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Look at my make of this and the video I linked https://youtu.be/cvNuy4atN6I

I can finally do Ninja Flex like its PLA.

Great video. Printing flex filament is a blast.

What are you all using as a cable guide for this, any x-axis chain that is compatible? I'm currently routing all my cables through my old extruder mount but I want something nicer.

Any chance of an extended duct for the E3DV6 version so I can swap in a volcano easier? I don't mind losing some Z height and I have autolevel so I can adjust for the change in Z zero without any issues. Swapping out the whole thing is just such a big endeavor since I have to remount the stepper, extruder and everything.

Sorry. no.

Okay, yeah checking now I can see that the ducts for both versions are identical and the only changes are in the base.

I'll try and bodge something together, might be enough to drill some holes lower and maybe dremelling a bit.

Installing this, (bondtech bmg and stock hotend) on my cr10s.
Isn't there supposed to be something between the hotend and extruder? Or is the ptfe tubing enough?

PTFE tubing between the 2 is all that is needed. I would recommend high temp PTFE if you are going to print high temp filament. I use Capricorn on 2 of mine but white stock PTFE on the third and have not had any problems. Just a precaution I guess since the CR10 hot end has a tendency to melt stock PTFE.

Thank you! I installed capricorn xs, works like a charm

Anyone have a good measurement of how long the PTFE tube should be for this? It's difficult to measure since it's internal. I'm using a knockoff Volcano hotend.

I measured 72mm I think it was, BTW.

I'm running into that same issue... haven't seen a response yet.

Thank you for your awesome work :-D
Printed this and it works perfekt just as your other work :-D

I'd like to put in a request for a LH BMG E3Dv6 option.

Hi, thank you for this design.
I would like to remix some changes into it, could you please explain what is the proper way to measure the offsets in case the hotend mount is modified?

Offsets are always the distance from the center of the probe to the center of the nozzle in X,Y coordinators.

I want to uprage a Tevo Black widow with an Bontech bmg. Can I use the Petsfang for the Tornado? Mounting plate looks clearly different.

this will only work with the cr10 and tornado style back plate.

Ok, no problem.
Thank you

Will try this out with a stock hot end, pancake stepper and BLTouch. Finally have a Bondtech BMG arriving in a couple days. I have your regular CR-10 Petsfang installed and it's fantastic. Just looking to get rid of the bowden setup. Do you have a dimensional length noted somewhere for the small connecting bowden tube needed for this?

Go to http://www.petsfang.com and the installation tab. It has the specifics.

I am using this Petsfang right now and i have to say it works well. There is one thing though I would love to see improvied. With the Bondtech BMG you can slot the E3D v6 straight inside the bondtech. This would make it even more direct and would save some weight.
Are you considering to make this mod?

I will not be doing that mod. I spent a lot of time trying to work that fitment out. There is just not enough room to the back plate without placing the nozzle outside the print bed limits and having too much weight forward of the x axis putting it way out of balance.

Can you tell me which files I need to mount a BMG Bondtech extruder with an e3dv6 hot end, and a 12mm "EZABL" type probe on a CR-10s?

Nevermind you already have answered here http://www.dpetsel.com/files2print-titan-direct.html thanks !

Any chance you could do one for tronxy x5s?

Great job, would it be possible to set the engine frame for both BMG bondtech models (left and right BLT)?

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Where is your Bond Tech BMG Extruder?

hi man,
thx for amazing work !!!!
do you have any profile for s3d with direct setup ? thx

My S3D profile probably won't work since I'm using the Micro Swiss hot end. Big change is to turn retraction way down. Start at 1.5mm and adjust up an down from there. I'm at .8mm with Petg and 1.1mm on PLA.