Overwatch D.Va armour (or armor if you're from the USA) and accessories are a set of 3d models for 3d printing. These models are full size and are designed for cosplaying the character D.Va from the popular game Overwatch from Blizzard software. The set includes everything to make a 2d printed D.Va zentai costume fully 3d costume. It’s a companion set to my D.Va headphones https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2838269 . All you need after that is a light pistol, there's loads on Thingiverse and a Meka. A full-size Meka might be a bit trickier to find ;)
There's a lot of files, but several are optional. The parts are scaled for a large (6' tall) adult and will almost certainly need scaling down for most D.Va cosplayers. Be prepared to make test prints to get the fit right.
The set include the back pack, the shoulder armour, the neck collar, the small disks, bits, clips and disks that decorate the suit
dva_back.stl, dva_back_pins.stl, dva_back_top.stl for the backpack. The pins are an optional part to strengthen join been the top and bottom parts
dva_bit.stl is a small part that goes on the suit. There should be 8 of these, 2 on the upper chest, 2 on the abdomen and 2 on each leg.
dva_clip.stl is a small part that goes on the legs of the suit, there should be 8 of these as well, 4 on each leg, 2 front and 2 back. They should line up with the pink straps that go around the inner thigh
dva_disk.stl and dva_disk_ring.stl are two little disks that go on the lower back. The ring is an optional part to make painting easier, the disks are mainly silver with a green ring then a black centre. Printing and painting the ring separately and gluing onto the disk means you don't have to faff about with masking and so on painting the green area.
dva_neck.stl, dva_neck_back.stl, dva_neck_decoration.stl, dva_neck_far_side.stl, dva_neck_front.stl, dva_neck_middle.stl, dva_neck_middle_pin.stl, dva_neck_side.stl, dva_neck_trim.stl, dva_neck_trim_half.stl and dva_neck_trim_half_pin.stl. This is D.Va's complicated neck collar armour. You need to print either dva_neck.stl and dva_neck_trim.stl or 2xdva_neck_trim_half.stl (mirror one of them), 2xdva_neck_middle.stl (mirror one of them), 4xdva_neck_middle_pin.stl and one dva_neck_front.stl. I did it this way because the dva_neck_side.stl and dva_neck_trim.stl can be too big for a lot of smaller printers with 20 cm beds (they work fine on a CR-10 and similar though), if your bed isn't big enough print the smaller front and mid parts and join them with the pins. The back piece is optional, its designed to have magnets fitted in it. You will need 2x of the side and far side pieces though (2 regular, 2 mirrored) and the decoration. The trim and the decoration pieces are separate so you can paint them separately.
dva_shoulder.stl, dva_shoulder_pin.stl and dva_shoulder_ring.stl are the shoulder plates, you'll need to print the shoulder 4 times, 2 regular and 2 mirrored. The pins are there to strengthen the join between the haves and the ring is another optional piece to make painting easier.
dva_spine.stl is a suit piece that goes on the lower back, you'll need 3 of these.
A number of the parts have "pins". These are just little box sections that fit in between the main parts for registration and strengthening. They are sized to fit the holes exactly, but if your printing isn't that accurate (mine isn't) I'd print them .2mm smaller on each axis to make sure they fit
It's a lot of parts, but I hope I've arranged and named everything logically and it all makes sense.
I printed all the parts on my Creality CR-10S in PrimaValue grey PLA using layer heights between .12mm and .24mm.
I usually used 3 top and bottom layers and 1.2 mm wall width. Infill varies from 10 to 50%, basically the flatter the piece, the more infill you should use to support the top layers.
A lot of the parts can be printed flat on the bed, but print dva_clip.stl upside down and dva_neck.stl, dva_neck_far_side.stl, dva_neck_side.stl, dva_neck_trim.stl and dva_neck_trim_half.stl will need to be printed with support.
I suggest printing the pins almost sold.
After printing I sanded down all the parts, usually starting with 80 grit, then 180 and then about 400. After that is filling in any bad spots with model filler. I glued them together Loctite cyanoacrylate adhesive but reinforced the joints on the inside with 5 minute epoxy resin. If you intended to wear the parts, then reinforcement with epoxy is highly recommended. The dva_neck_side and dva_next_far_side might need a little sanding to make them fit and some epoxy underneath to fill in any gaps.
After that they got a coat of filler primmer, more sanding and filler, then regular primer and a polish with very very high grit (at least 600) sand paper. The were all painted them with a mixture of car touch up and model acrylic and enamel spray cans and detailing was done with Tamyia acrylic model paints with a fine paint brush.
Some of the parts like the back have decals on them. I've included a file Dva decals.jpg for these (and others). I printed this out onto self-adhesive film on my inkjet printer, cut them out and applied them to the model after painting.
How I Designed This
The Models where made using Sub-Division Surfaces in Blender, the files should be attached if you want to have a look or change them. The design is based on Blizzards in game model but with a few small changes to make them fit an actual live human better.
I bought my suit from Zentai Zentai in China https://www.zentai-zentai.com/d-va-overwatch-upgraded-costume-printed-spandex-lycra-with-shiny-metallic-and-cotton-padding-products-3455.html . I optioned seperate gloves, upgraded zip and built in soles.
Most of the parts where attached to the suit with velcro. I sewed (with a zig zag stich on my sewing machine where possible) patches of soft velcro to the suit and expoy'ed the hard side to the parts. Also put the soft side of velcro on a spandex suit, the hard side can damage it.
I recommend gluing velcro to the 3d printed parts with very very strong glue, as even the likes of hot glue can fail with velcro (I speak from experience).
Instead of sewing you could glue the smaller parts on with superglue, but you'll have to stretch the suit before gluing (basically wear it). This will be tricky and you run the risk of gluing the part and suit to your skin, so it’s not recommended. Stitching is safer and if you mess up you can simple unpick and try again.
The only non 3d printed part I had to make was the cuffs, I made these out of EVA foam covered with PVC fabric as I wanted these to be soft and flexible.
The back part of the neck is designed to be attached to front with magnets, there are recesses in the models where you can glue these. Use strong glue and make absolutely sure you've got them the right way around. But I found my magnets not to be very secure and you might want to add a bit of tape or use Velcro or some sort of clasp.
If you want to use the spine and back piece you'll have to get into the suit first and then get someone to attach them to you as they go over where the zip goes.