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DDeGonge888

[V8.0] One/Two-Up Extruder with lever and adjustable tension (E3D support!)

by DDeGonge888 Apr 12, 2014
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has anybody else hadd the problem of the otside of prints having gaps

This gave me a real hard time. I dremeled a hole in the side for troubleshooting. As it turns out Q3d changed to a new steel filament drive gear that is a lot smaller. I had to do a lot of modifications to get it to feed. It does hold the e3d much better thank you.

I liked the design at first but I've now decided to stay away from this.

I recently had some issues with jamming and this completely enclosed design made it nearly impossible to troubleshoot, or even view what was going on for that matter. And, it's a pain in the ass to disassemble/reassemble (in my opinion, more trouble than the stock extruder). I also had troubles with the tension adjustment screw breaking through the little plastic cap that goes on the end of the spring, which releases all tension on the extruder gear.

It does hold the hot-end very securely though, much tighter than the stock MDF one.

I use the extruder designed for the Anubis to mount the Prometheus hot end and that has worked wonderfully. I never could get the plastic slider to work and made one out of aluminum. Biggest problem is that I had to fight with the Anubis to print out this extruder frame and the upgrade parts needed to mount the Prometheus. For a while it didn't look like I could get there from here.

Thanks for your feedback. I'm aware that not having a view port can be troublesome for troubleshooting, but some people have done some remixes which include a view port and also I believe one with a fan duct to cool the inside of the extruder. Additioanlly, people have had more success using a m3x10mm bolt in place of the tensioner slider. Hopefully this helps you if you decide to go back and anyone else with the same concerns.

This thing has a major glitch. One thing is that it's completely enclosed. So if something gets jammed you have to kill your print and take apart the extruder to fix it. Every so often, I think because of lack of ventilation, it gets too hot inside the extruder assembly and the filament will soften to the point of bending. Once that happens the thing just keeps on feeding, giving a coiled snake of damn near unremovable mess that ruins the print.

It seems possible that if there was a funnel or tube above the extruder input, this could be prevented, but I'm not sure as to whether or not thats feasible, easy, or reliable to implement. Pretty sick enclosure otherwise.

Excellent and simple design. Works like a champ.

How do I get the filament to load easily? When I try to do it it always misses the hot end.

Does anyone else experience wobble with the e3d version? If not then maybe I need to print a new one with the e3d now that I have it mounted. XD

SOLVED:
Found it. Change the configuration.h file. Under the // Red Printrboard section change the definition for "INVERT_E0_DIR" mine was set to true so I flipped it to false.

So when I install this it didn't occur to me that with the filament on the other side the extruder would effectively be running in reverse. How do I invert it? I see where I can do this for X and Y but not for the extruder. I could reverse the plug but I would like to do it with software if it's possible.

easiest way for me was to flip the pins on the molex

How exactly does the fan/ fan mount attach? I'm a little confused by that...

Me too. Did you figure it out?

tried to print the clip with repetier host Mac. Extruder quit running when told. when I haulted the program and ran manual it worked. Do you have any suggestions what I may have done wrong ? using a one-up.

I should have said I need the STEP files for the anubis version... I see you have uploaded the E3d version already. Thank you.

I have printed this out and am in the process of rebuilding my printer with it. I really like the design, much cleaner than the original. I was wondering if it would be possible to get the parts as STEP files? I would like to make some modifications in the future and I don't have access to solid works. Thank you for designing this, and making it available.

Does the E3D hotend mount is compatible with JHEAD hot end, I have one here for a new printer that I try to print but since the print from QU-BD HOTEND are crap, I need to use something different

thank you

I believe the e3d uses a j-head mounting groove so both theoretically should fit into this e3d extruder.

I also have another question, I need to use a mirrored version, but the fan bracket on the left side, it will have space? it will not touch the treaded rod?

Or I will use the same side as you have, but will change the firmware to change the motor direction.

I would recommend printing it how I have with the fan bracket on the right hand side and just change the firmware. It is easy enough and it is good to know how to upload new firmware to your board in case you would ever like to add enstops or upgrade your printer majorly.

thanks, I will try to print this and hopefully be able to have a piece of plastic that is usable with my crappy printer lol

I suppose this can't be printed in PLA as it would melt in the part in contact with the hot end, right?

PLA is fine with the e3d hot end, but if you print it in pla for the anubis hot end it is required to use the fan bracket as well. Also, people reported that printing abs with this extruder printed in pla will not go well, even if you have the fan blowing on the top of the hot end.

How'd you wire the fans with the e3d? Are both controlled by the board simultaneously or is one on all the time?
And isn't the duct that blows on the heat break unnecessary?

Sorry for the very late response. The fan for the e3d should be powered directly by the power supply so it is always on at full speed. And the duct is not required or even possible to use with the e3d version, only for the anubis version.

The V7.0 lever arm seems to be too wide to fit in the extruder body. There's a 1mm gap between the halves of the casing when holding all the pieces together.

That's odd. If you can, measure how tall each of your extruder body halves are. They should be 12mm thick exactly. It kind of sounds like something got messed up with your print causing it to squish a little, I've seen this happen quite a number of times.

Has any one had trouble slicing the levers? For some reason my slicer is not slicing the whole stl. Any suggestions?

Comments deleted.

Quick question, what size motor is this made for?

Thanks!

Nema 17, any motor with a bolt hole distance of 31mm square will work

Any chance of tweaking it to accept a NEMA14?

The extruder stepper motor seems to turn the wrong way with this design, it was fine with the stock extruder. Any ideas?

EDIT: I should have read the comments below!

Just built it now, very solid build and no more wobbling of the hotend, which is great.

One thing I would say is to mention the fan bracket in the instructions!

A little bit of a problem, maybe it's just me. The real pictures show a narrow groove that fit into the collar of the hot end. The "thingview" shows a very wide collar that does not fit around my collar. Is that for a different type of hot end?

Well there are 2 different models for 2 different hot ends.

The standard one is for the stock anubis hot end that comes with the one/two-up printers. The other model (which has an E3D added to the end of the name) is for an e3d hot end. The e3d version has a much wider groove for the hot end.

Thanks. Don't speak fluent 3D printer yet so I was seeing the newser v.6.2 when I should have seen E3D as a different type of hot end. Printing v 6.2 now... Or should I buy te E3D?

Ahhh right sorry I forgot they are different versions currently. I will update the versions so they are the same (apart from the e3d part) to avoid confusion.

Also, the anubis works fine when printing at lower speeds, but with my new printer which prints much faster it causes problems. I actually just purchased an e3d hot end so I'm hoping I get it soon!

How would one slice the fan bracket? The best way is with the fan-interface lying onto the bed, but the round mounting point prevents it from being placed flat on the bed. I can't seem to find an easy way to slice it.

The best way is to flip it 180* along the x or y axis (basically flip it upside down). I apologize I thought the part was oriented properly for printing. I will try to re-upload it soon!

But then I supose you use support material?

Nope no support is needed. It will just bridge it across the top and you won't have a problem!

Oh sweet you made a E3D version! I think it might be time for a extruder upgrade. ;)

Exactly what I thought! I just don't want to spend $70+ on a new hot end...

Comments deleted.

thanks for the info.
Oh and, my tensioner slider just broke! think the print quality wasn´t good enough, but it doesn´t matter as I was able to replace it with a M3 x 10 screw.

That is actually a great idea! The same thing happened to me and I'm now using a screw as you suggested and it is much more reliable!

I just printed v6.0 and found out that you uploaded v7.0. Can you tell me what changed?

All that changed is the lever arm, and I would definitely recommend printing it as it is much stronger and more reliable. For future reference, you can tell which parts changed by looking at the part versions. The whole extruder version is simply the highest version of any part, but the parts may be different versions (like in this the frame is 6.1 and the lever is 7.0)

Very easy to load filament! Thank you! But I have a question: Is it possible to configure the stepper motor to reverse the direction? After this upgrade it moves the filament out instead of in the extruder :-/ I don't want to change the lever to the right side.

It is possible to do so by re-uploading the firmware with adjusted parameters, but there is a much easier way to do it.

  1. Make sure everything is powered off
  2. Unplug your extruder stepper
  3. Pull out 2 wires from the connector (make sure you choose 2 wires on one side, aka if it is configured like ABCD, pull out A and B, or pull out C and D)
  4. Swap the 2 wires you pulled and plug them back in
  5. profit
    Let me know if anything I said doesn't make sense! And make sure the wires are firmly re-inserted into the plugs

Ok wait...
The connector wires on mine are in this order, Green, Black, Blue, Red.
All I need to do is flip Blue and Red? Or do I need to flip blue and black, then green and red?

Yes just flip blue and red. And be sure everything is unpowered before you start pulling cables.