This one is still work in progress but figured a few folk might find the stuff designed so far is of some use to them and may open the project to some new ideas.
There are a plethora of Lack enclosure designs out there but one thing that struck me was a lack of a design which allowed a quickly removable cover but had the facility to have lights, fans or other 12 volt dependent equipment mounted upon it. The caveat here is that it needs to be fairly low powered so don't run away with the idea of supplying heat beds and the like through the pogo pins.
The design needed to have the following attributes:
- A lift off enclosure cover with full, unrestricted access to the printer for maintenance etc once removed.
- Have facility for LED lighting in cover and future capability for mounting Raspberry Pi and camera.
- No plugs or terminals to have to disconnect routinely during cover removal.
- Accurate and simple location when refitting.
I first started this project when I bought my Anet A6 and realised that having the printer sat on a desk made it vulnerable to getting knocked and also gather a good layer of dust over time. I'd also heard that to print ABS, an enclosure was recommended due to temperature stability and also the odour at the higher hot end temperatures. Figuring I could put a charcoal filter on the enclosure extract fan,During the build, I recently acquired an Anet E12 and thought I'd do something similar for this printer also. The size and design of each printer differ significantly so I set about doing some research. I've plagiarised a fair bit of the things made and I've credited hopefully, everyone accordingly. If I've missed someone, please let me know and I will credit retrospectively.
Update. 27April2019. Set of offset Leg brackets STL's uploaded. These are intended for the E12 enclosure to give a larger enclosure volume to cater for the larger bed of the E12 (Or any other larger format printer). I'm printing off my first set so haven't tried them in anger but thought they might be useful for folk to have a go with in the meantime.
Update 17.May.19. I've edited a couple of features on the leg extension pieces. Removed the door stop on the front legs and relocated the cable entry to the rear face of the front legs rather than the inside. The 550mm enclosure height pieces also have tapped holes (M3) on the enclosure glazing lugs to allow the perspex sheet to be secured in place. This makes the cover far more rigid.
All parts so far have been made with PLA or PLA+.
The builds so far have required 4 x IKEA Lack tables per printer. These can be bought in the UK direct from IKEA for around £5 each at time of writing. I believe even cheaper in the USA. Article No: 200.114.08
As I wanted the enclosures to be mobile, fitting castors was good idea. The set of 4 "RILL" castors were around £8 Article No:966.713.00. There are matching braked ones around twice the price but I haven't bothered as yet.Links to web sites at the end of this chapter. For step 1, you will need the set of 4 castors and 2x Lack tables. Starting from the base of the Lack stack, I printed the following components.
- https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2598673 (You'll need 4 of these. Thanks SoundDoc
2.http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2123893 4 leg tops and 4 leg bases. Thanks JontheMiller
3 The drilling jig in the files section of this project.(drilling_jig_for_table_tp_Leg_bases.stl)
Once printed, fit the covers to the four castors by sliding the castor mounting plate into the slot. This may be quite a tight fit but once it slides on, the 4 holes of the castor mount should align with the holes in the cover.
Take the table top of the first Lack and invert it on a firm soft surface. Place the castor / cover assembly onto a corner of the underside of the table so the side extensions of the cover are tight against the outer edges of the table. Pilot drill the 4 holes with a 2mm drill and secure using four 1" x No:8 woodscrews. Repeat for the remaining 3 corners.
Flip over the table top once complete and you should now have a Lack "Gazzunder" trolley.
Next, use the drill jig to mark and drill the four corners of the lack table with two holes, using the same pilot drill as in step above. Using two of the same countersunk 1" x No:8 woodscrews, secure four of the YALE leg bases to the top corners of the table.
Open the 2nd lack table kit from IKEA and fit the legs as per instructions, but fit the leg tops printed earlier between the leg and the table. The magnet mounts should be facing out when leg is fully tightened. I found the best way to achieve this was to screw the leg until it just tightened against the table top and noted the position. Note where the the YALE top needs to move to so that the position is requiring another quarter turn to be in correct orientation. Back off the leg from the table sufficiently to allow the YALE top to be repositioned and then fully re-tighten. The final quarter turn should ensure the leg is tight and thus avoid a wobbly lack stack.
The 2nd table can now be fitted to the base YALE brackets. Ensure each leg is pushed fully home into the bases and once all four are seated firmly, pilot drill and secure with eight more of the same screws used previously. Be careful not to over-tighten the screw as the legs are hollow and only made of compressed cardboard.
Do not discard the spare legs as they will come in useful later on. Step 1 is now complete and you should now have a two tiered dolly.
Black LACK table https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/tables/coffee-side-tables/lack-side-table-black-art-20011408/
Castors (RILL) https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/smart-home-appliances/tools-fittings/rill-castor-grey-art-96671300/
Step 2 in my case, was where the builds started to differ. The Anet A6 was too low down for my liking on the top of the existing assembly so I added another Lack on top. In this case, print off another set of YALE leg tops and bottoms and repeat the mounting details as in step 1 (Obviously without the castor fitting).
In the assembly for the E12 printer, because of its larger size, I felt that to sit it on the same double height as the A6 build, would make the overall height of the enclosure too tall so I elected to reduce the height of the next deck by cutting down the legs. This can be seen in the photos with Orange printed parts where the 2nd and 3rd level of the stack is much smaller. I intended to mount the remote electronics box under here on a slide-out drawer rail but the cables weren't long enough.
I measured and cut the legs exactly in half. Marking them with a combination square and scriber, then cut them accurately with a fine toothed saw. You need to get this as accurate as possible to avoid the next level becoming distorted or wobbly so take your time.Once cut, the stumpy legs can be fitted the same as the regular ones and then stacked and fixed.
Whichever option you have chosen, by the end of this step you should be ready to mount the printer on the top of the assemblies. I use the bottom shelf for a plastic hermetically sealed box where I keep my filament spools until ready for use.
Update. 10.07.18. The Anet A6 has been modified with the screw down front and rear braces. Links below. This allows the printer to be secured to the top of the lack, which greatly improves the stability of the printer. I'd sourced a piece of granite a while back, which was an off-cut from some kitchen worktop. I initially intended to drill it and secure the A6 down to it but it turned out to be a bit of overkill. However, the E12 hasn't got any fixing down points although the rubber feet seem to be fairly tacky on the bottom. So I've fitted the granite to the Lack stack for the E12. The weight and flatness should go some way to keeping the printer stable. I've modelled some spacers which I've added to this project, which allow for a granite slab 498mm square x 30mm nominal.They fit directly beneath the base sockets in the next step.
Anet A6 Rear Brace:
Anet A6 Back Frame Brace with Screwholes by MonkeyDudes
Anet Front Brace:
Frame brace for Anet A6 by Star_Rider
Step 3 (The detachable bits mountings)
In this next step, I started to think about the actual enclosure part of the build. I'll be concentrating more on the Anet A6 stack for a while as the E12 is giving me more of a headache at the moment. The first thing to do is download and print the drilling jig by Lukefeil.
This device is a lifesaver when trying to get the leg and bases aligned and is a superb little design. Don't get it confused with the previous 2 hole model I remixed in the model files as the holes are not in the same places.
The next pieces to print are the Base sockets. These are the fixed parts which fit onto the top of the printer deck and to which the removable portion of the enclosure locates and also receives power. There are 4 of these and they're all different. The rear ones are designed to hold the 4mm acrylic sheets which for the enclosure at the rear and two sides whilst the front ones hold the side sheets but allow the front aperture to have a hinged or removable door.
The bases and the leg extensions are all based (Remixes) on the ones made by Thebeetleuk https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2776584. The lugs are not strictly necessary as the glazing for the enclosure should be retained well enough by the detachable lid portion of the enclosure but I've gone so far with ThebeetleUK's design philosophy so far.
I liked the design but it seemed over-complicated with the threaded portion on the leg extension and I wanted the electrical connections to be made inside the legs.which made a remix necessary. I chose the 4mm version (Refers to the gap between the lugs for mounting enclosure sides) as this sheet is standard glazing thickness. The leg extensions are made with two lengths. A 40mm thick gives overall enclosure height with a standard Lack leg of 470mm and the other version (Marked as 550mm), gives overall enclosure height of 550mm. This seems ideal for the Anet A6 or equivalent but isn't high enough for the E12 / CR10 size machines. For this, I intend to join a set of Lack legs to double the height of the enclosure and then only need the shorter 40mm adaptors.
Choose your desired height and print the set of leg extensions and the set of leg tops.
For a 550mm height enclosure use:
d. leg_extension_4mm_x_550_front _left.stl
e. Leg_tops_set_of_4.stl (See note below)
For a 470mm enclosure height use:
e. Leg_tops_set_of_4.stl (See note below)
Once the bases are printed, the pogo pins can be fitted to the corners of the printer deck and wiring routed as required. The mounting holes in the bases are designed to accept probe pins such as https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5Pcs-P1319-15-5mm-Lenght-Spring-Loaded-Contact-Test-High-Current-Probe-Terminal-/183145401247?hash=item2aa4510b9f
I soldered the wire onto the back of the pin directly, taking care not to leave the solder flow outside the diameter of the pin. The wire is then passed through from the top and the pogo pin pushed in until it abuts the shoulder inside. (If you intend to connect wires beneath the table, don't fit the pins until after you have used the base pieces as a drill guide in the next paragraph). There is a small hole in the side of the base if the wiring is to be laid on the table top, or a hole may be drilled through to underneath and wired up to the power supply.
Use the drilling jig to drill four x 2mm pilot holes per base in the top of the table. Screw down the base pieces. If the wire is going to be terminated underneath the table top, use the base pieces as a drill guide to ensure the holes align.
Update 10.07.18. If you have a 500mm x 30mm (Nominal) piece of granite or stone worktop kicking around, you'll also need to print out a set of spacers as in the files if you intend to use it for the printer deck. These fit directly beneath the base sockets and you will need some 2" screws to pass through from the sockets, through the spacers and into the Lack top. See photos with the orange prints.2" No:10's worked a treat for me, or 5mm x 50-60mm for the metric folk. I've also drilled through the Lack top where the pogo pins align and passed a fish wire through, ready for when I fit the pins. These can be seen in the photos also.
Note. I have uploaded a 2nd set of leg tops which have a wire entry which allows the wiring to be passed through the leg and exit directly onto the underside of the enclosure lid. This may be useful if you intend only fitting lighting or fans into the the lid and not the sides or legs of the enclosure. You will need 4 of them as they are all different:
a. Leg top with wire entry front RHS.stl
b. Leg top with wire entry front LHS.stl
c. Leg top with wire entry rear Right.stl
d. Leg top with wire entry rear Left.stl
Update. 28April19. If you are intending to house a larger format printer such as the E12, print off the following offset base sockets and leg tops instead of the above two options. These will give you an overall enclosure internal height of around 572mm and an additional "X" axis clearance of around 102mm.
You will still require the leg bases either 40mm or the "150mm" to go with these offset brackets.
Step 4 (The detachable leg bits)
Print the 4 leg top and bottom pieces as per step 3, dependent upon enclosure size requirements..
Use the drilling jig with the 4 holes to mark and pilot drill the bottom of each leg for the enclosure lid. I intend to fix LED adhesive backed strip up each leg so the wiring is planned on emerging from the top of the extension pieces. If desired, a hole could be drilled in the leg base and the top and the wiring fished through before attaching.( In which case, use the leg tops with the wire entry as per note in step 3).
The hole in the extension pieces is designed to accept M4 brass threaded rod. Cut the rod to the length of the extension minus 1mm clearance. Attach a pair of half nuts to one end and lock together so the nut flats align and push into the hexagonal hole in the bottom of the extension pieces. In the terminal chamber on the top of the extensions, place a brass washer, followed by the ring terminal and then a further washer and nut. Tighten to ensure a good connection.The rod and nuts at the bottom of the leg should be flush or slightly recessed from the lower face where it mates with the base socket pieces.
Attach the legs as per usual, remembering to fit the top pieces between the legs and enclosure top. If using the offset leg fixtures, these are attached to the leg and enclosure cover using the 4 holed drilling jig for pilot drill and then assembled using the No:8 x 1" woodscrews as per the bases. Note: You will need a minimum of two pogo pins to power the enclosure lid but a further two may be fitted so each leg has an electrical connection if multiple circuits are required.
Step 5 (Enclosing the enclosure)
OK, back home for a few days and after tackling the Everglades, or my garden doing a splendid impression of them, managed to get a couple of hours on the Lack project again.
I always intended to use 4mm Acrylic sheet. (plexiglas, Perspex, acetate sheet, call it what you will), to which end, I had purchased some time ago, 4 x 600mm square sheets of 4mm thick. Not the cheapest stuff on the planet here in the UK but for my American followers, from recollection it's pretty reasonably priced in "Homeless Despot." I cut the sheets, accurately by hand to 17.5 inch x 550mm (A good mix of imperial and metric there, for the sake of inclusiveness), and they fitted in the lid brackets pretty well. The interference fit holds the sheets fairly firmly but I might pin them in place once I finish the wiring later on. Now comes a decision with the door at the front. I'd contemplated having a lift off version and also a magnetically attached removable panel but eventually elected for a standard hinged door. Unfortunately, after a fairly lengthy trawl on Thingiverse, there were nothing that fitted the bill I could find where the hinges didn't mount on the outside face of the leg and allowed the door to open 180 degrees, so back to Fusion 360 and I've designed my own. The current files allow for the hinges to mount on the right hand side of the enclosure. The door can be opened pretty much flat back or it can be quickly lifted off the hinge pins if it forms an obstruction. The door part of the hinge is threaded M3 and the holes are 6mm deep so an M3 x 10mm screw with a washer should fit perfectly through the 4mm acrylic sheet from the inside. The frame part of the hinge is modelled with a pair of countersunk 4mm holes for woodscrews to fit to the Lack leg. The hinges are small and subtle and the only uncertainty is their durability due to their small overall dimensions. So far they seem fine. I'll try to mirror the design for a left hand opener when I get a minute but will have to re-thread the holes unless anyone has a job lot of left hand threaded M3 x 10mm screws they want rid of.
Update. 09.08.18. Right hand hinge set and jig now uploaded to the files. There are a pair of drilling and cutting jigs to enable accurate hinge fitting to the door panel. Detailed instructions are on the link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3002949
Next mission is a suitable latch for the door and then onto step 6 for the wiring up. .
Step 6. Lighting and power.
There are a few option with the lighting. I elected for the adhesive LED strip that can be bought pretty cheaply on Ebay or Amazon. I had considered sinking some LED downlighters into the top cover but didn't think they would give such an even spread of illumination. I might revisit this when it comes to the E12 enclosure as it's considerably taller than the A6 / A8 version.
I've added the adhesive lighting strips up the sides of the rear two legs, where the power is delivered from the pogo pins. I cut off the proprietary connector and soldered directly to the strip. You only need one wire at each leg, so Positive wire was connected in the right hand leg and negative in the left for my enclosure, ensuring to solder to the correct polarity pad on the LED strip. I crimped a 4mm ring terminal onto the other end of the wire and connected each to their respective brass rod in the terminal chamber inside the leg adaptors. The adaptors can then be screwed onto the legs. With a bit of careful fiddling, all you should see once assembled is the led strip, appearing from the joint between the leg adaptor and the bottom of the leg, and then travelling up the leg. The strips continued to the top of each leg and then across the underside of the Lack top. I then cut 2 new pieces to go along the underside at each side and down the rear faces of the front leg. This was to avoid glare when looking in through the front of the enclosure, To allow the making of the electrical circuit to the additional, I soldered small wires in the corners, connecting like polarities of the strips. In practical terms, this would probably have more than sufficed with the level of illumination required but in the name of symmetry, I also ran a strip across the front underside, again, connection one side with small wires to the existing circuit.
I tested the circuit once complete with a 12 volt battery to the two pogo pin contacts in the bottom of the rear legs and nearly burned out my retinas with the light output. I may need to put a dimmer in at a later stage but it's working as advertised so far. Just to tidy up, I used a bit of "Hot melt Glue" to cover the solder joints and to hold the small wires in place onto the underside surface. The only thing left to do to the enclosure lid now, is make a suitable aperture for the filament entry into the enclosure and maybe a spool holder. Next major step is the wiring up on the underside of the printer deck and I've still got to fit a door latch. I couldn't find a cable transit that I liked, nor a PSU mount, so I've designed my own and the files have been added to this ever growing project. Hope someone finds this stuff useful and please feel free to drop me a comment or two for suggestions or critique.
Step 7 (The electrical Bit)
I drilled two 25mm holes through the table, both positioned so they would be hidden by the control board cover I've made: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3032480
I've also designed a pair of cable transit (Penetrations) to pass through the IKEA table top: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3029537
There are two sets, one 15mm and one 16mm internal bore. Both require 25mm hole to be drilled in table. If you can get your wiring through the 15mm, I'd recommend that one rather than the 16mm as the wall thickness of the threaded portion of the nipple is a bit marginal and can break quite easily. The USB plug is usually the biggest challenge.
I then mounted the PSU underneath the printer deck (IKEA Lack cardboard table) so that the rearmost transit would appear inside the terminal cover of the PSU: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3028496
The other is open as I wanted to run stuff like USB and camera ribbon cables for the Raspberry Pi running OctoPrint. I've mounted the Pi in a case, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:922740, next to the PSU.
The Pi is powered by a 12 Volt - micro USB buck converter like:(https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0755992ZV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've located the buck converter inside the control board cover and connected the 12 Volt to the supply terminals of the control board, along with the supply wires to the board from the PSU. A 2nd pair of 12 Volt supply wires comes from the MOSFET for the heated bed and along with the supply wires to the control board, pass through the rear cable transit to the PSU terminal cover beneath the deck. The micro USB power supply and the USB cable from the control board pass through the front cable transit and connect to the Pi.
For the lighting supply, I fed a 12Volt positive from the 3rd pair of terminals on the PSU, out through the hole of the terminal cover to the pogo pin. I've fitted a panel fuse at the rear of the Lack, just in case of any mishaps with the lighting set-up. The wire from the pogo pin goes internally through the inside of the table onto the fuse holder terminal. Another wire is then fed from the other fuse terminal, to the PSU. The negative wire is connected directly to the PSU from the other pogo pin.
Switching on, saw everything power up as expected (Hoped), all fans running, MOSFET, printer and Raspberry Pi all working as advertised. I now have to tidy up the wiring under the deck with a little mini trunking and I might put a couple of push button switches to disable the lights and the Raspberry Pi in case I may want to run a print from SD card and in the dark, but that's for later.
Last bit to do now is the door latch and a filament spool mount and transit through the enclosure top.
As alway, please feel free to comment and any suggestions are welcome.
Step 8. Door Latch and handle
There are loads of designs for door latches on Thingiverse but none seemed to quite fit what I wanted. I wanted to have a positive lock on the door to prevent it blowing open once any fans had started but didn't want something that would be hard to pull open during day to day use. That pretty much excluded the use of magnetic catches. I had a look around on Ebay and Amazon for a ready made solution as there seemed little point in re-inventing the wheel, and finally decided to use these caravan / boat catches. ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/lzn-Button-cupboard-camper-handle/dp/B078YVZSYM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1533580845&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+push+button+lock
You can get these cheaper on Ebay if you shop around a bit but just make sure the hole centres are the same. Now I need a door handle to mount the thing on as they appear to be designed to fit a door thickness of around half inch or 15mm, so it was "Hello Fusion 360" time again. I've also designed a strike for the latch and a drilling jig for drilling the door. The jig is designed to use a 2mm pilot drill. The holes can then be opened out with the correct size clearance holes. 20mm for the button to pass through and 4.5mm for the mounting screws x 3.
The handle should be printed on its side to avoid the need to support. The screw holes in the handle are threaded M4, I ran a tap down mine post print, just to ensure a clean thread. The holes are around 14mm deep so a 10-15mm long screw going through 4mm of acetate sheet should be fine. The two screws holding on the latch assembly need to be 15-18mm to ensure a secure fixing, assuming you're using a 4mm thick door like me.
There is a drilling jig which should help get the holes in the door in the right place, print this on its T section face down on the bed. Choose whether you have a left or right hand mounted latch and make sure the jig has the corresponding text facing you when it is placed on the outside surface of the door and the T section is against the latch side edge of the door. Position around the centre of the doors height to correspond with the latch which is equidistant between the top two screws.There are two versions of the jig. Use the 8mm offset one if you intend to use the included strike plate for the latch to engage. This avoids having to drill and cut a rectangular hole in the Lacks front leg. If you wish to do this, then you can use the jig with the zero offset and you will not need to print the strike.
I've only made a Left Handed handle up to now but will try and get around to mirroring it in the next few days. Today being 06.08.18 I will update the files once complete.
Update. 09.08.18. Right handed handle now uploaded to the files.
Step 9. Filament Transit through enclosure lid
I've made a filament transit, similar design to the cable transits to allow the filament to pass into the enclosure. The intention is to mount a spool holder on the lid of the enclosure but I'm still undecided on which one. The filament transit requires an 8mm hole to be drilled through the lack table and the transit passed through and the nipple screwed in the other end to tidy the look and to give a small space for air to pass through, in or out of the enclosure. The internal bore is 2mm nominal. Files have now been added to this project)
Post printing, I ran an M5 tap down the threaded portion of the tube and similarly, an M5 die down the nipple thread to minimise the torque required to tighten them together. The nipple thread is fairly fragile and will not sustain much heavy handedness before the thread shears off. However, sensible force will see it tighten sufficiently to hold firmly in place.
Further updates will follow once I decide on the spool holder. (10.08.18)
Step 10. Spool Holder
I've uploaded a "Work inProgress" spool holder which I decided needed designing rather than steal someone elses. I was hoping to have the prototype printed today but the Gcode file got corrupted and it only printed around 76% of it before the printer ran out of code. Given that it is over 24 hour print job, I'll attempt when I get back home in a couple of weeks. The detail can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3046311
Update. 27.08.18. Successfully printed the spool holder V1.0 today. It took just over 25 hours but I'm really pleased with both its form and function. I've fixed it down to the top of the Lack enclosure lid with three 5mm x 30mm countersunk woodscrews and it is rock solid.
Step 11. Enclosure venting and Cooling fan
Following on from my control board cooling fan cover (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3032480), I needed a method of ensuring cool air from outside the enclosure could be drawn in as I figured there could be a high likelihood of the enclosure temperature rising considerably when printing with ABS. I also wanted a method of allowing a slight positive pressure to be created inside the enclosure to prevent the ingress of dust.
The intake cover is designed to use the fan screws to attach it to the existing cooling fan which in turn is attached to the control board cover. Thie is mounted via the standard mortice and tenon joint from the original Anet control board cover. The cover has two threaded holes in the base which is designed to accept the intake transit pieces. There is a drilling jig provided to ensure accurate drilling of the Lack table top, the holes should be opened up to 42 -44mm using a proprietary hole-saw or Forstner bit.
The fan inspection cover has been designed to accept a 60mm perspex disc to enable the fan rotation to be viewed. I'll upload a solid one for those that do not wish to glue the window into the cover. The cover is a friction fit using stubs which locate in the fan mounting turret screw holes. The window cover can be removed using one of those suction cups used to change halogen GU10 bulbs. The plain cover has been designed to have a knob mounted with an M3 x 14mm screw and nut, the latter held captive in the knob. See https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3076576 for detailed instructions on the air ductwork and installation. I've added the photos and STL's here on the Lack build for ease as well.
The next stage is to design a filter box to be mounted on the underside of the printer deck (AKA Ikea cardboard furniture) and probably incorporate an additional booster fan if necessary.
Step 12. Air filter for enclosure
It doesn't take long before everything gets covered in a fine layer of dust, even inside the enclosure. Due to the amount of acrylic components, it seems a lot of static is generated which adds to the dust clinging and attraction. So onwards to build a filter system.
The filter details can be found here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3090158) but I've added the STL's to this project for ease of access. The filter is designed to be fitted beneath the printer deck (AKA, scandinavian cardboard furniture), and utilises the air intake transit ducts fitted in step 11. I have also provisioned a 4mm countersunk hole for additional security if required but so long as the transit penetrations through the Lack table were drill accurately, they will tighten up by hand easily and securely.
The filter is designed to use a 120mm square piece of filter foam (eg. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01BO60PTO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and this is sandwiched between the two filter grids. This assembly is then slotted into the housing until fully home, which leave a small section protruding. The lid slides onto the protruding filter grid and then snaps closed to the housing.
The housing has been made with two options. Holes in the lid or holes in the housing and it depends on where you intend to pull the cooling air from, which design is used. I intend in the future to at least partially enclose the shelf beneath the printer deck so I elected to print the housing with holes which can draw air in from outside the Lack stack. If you want to ventilate the void space beneath the printer deck, then print the solid housing and the lid with holes which will then draw air in from the void space once the sides are fitted.
When printing, print the housing stood upright with its lid end pointing skyward. The lid is also printed flat on the bed. The filter grids (You'll need to print two of them) are printed flat and I like to print radius face down as it's easier to get them of the build surface afterwards.
As before, I welcome any comments and would love a bit of feedback or photos of any makes.
Last bit I can think about now is the possibility of making a charcoal filter exhaust system to absorb any fumes from ABS printing. I'm hoping the filter box should be halfway to the design but it'll have to wait a few weeks as I'm back to work.
Step 13. The E12 enclosure
My ongoing Lack enclosure project has now started to focus on the E12 printer. The height of this enclosure is such that I wanted to utilise the cut down legs rather than print off 4 200mm extension pieces. There are many leg joining designs out there but I wanted one that would fit to the bottom of an intact Lack leg but enable a good stable fit of a cut-down leg which will have a hollow end rather than the glued in plug of the standard full length ones. Way back in Step 2, I elected to cut down the legs of the printer deck Lack to keep the overall height of the enclosure sensible. This left me with a set of leg offcuts approx 200mm long and these seem to be a good height for the actual printer enclosure when added onto a set of standard legs. I had a look around on Thingiverse for a ready made solution but in the end I decided to make my own design to acommodate some design requirements. Namely, ability to pass electrical wiring through for the powered cover and a strong and rigid structure. Detailed design and post printing can be found on the item page here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3303906 but a brief description is below and I'll add the files to this project for convenience.
The design allows the fixing of the joiner to the bottom of the full length leg by 4 off No:8 x 1" wood screws (4mm x 25mm equivalent). This gives a good solid fix and the open ended leg (Cut down one in my case), is then slotted over the joiner and secured with 4 x M4 x 15mm countersunk screws. A drilling jig is provided to ensure accurate drilling of the leg to ensure a close tolerance and secure fix. If you've been following this Lack build project, you will already have printed the Lukefell drilling jig used in an earlier step so no need to print it again.
Step 14. The E12 printer mods
It's fair to say the E12 is not a printer that's free from problems out of the box. Putting it into the Lack enclosure also requires a few additional mods which I'll briefly list here.
The first essential one for me was the addition of a MOSFET for the heatbed as this thing is pretty large. The standard Ebay special will do here. I printed off the mounting bracket by Mr 3D, (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2551977) which uses the spool holder mounting holes in reverse. Whilst inside the control box, I also added a 12 volt to 5 volt USB buck converter to power the Raspberry Pi for Octoprint. The USB flying lead was fed out of the back of the controller via the multiple cable exit for the fixed harnesses. I've no idea why Anet chose to only fit half of the wiring with the aviation connectors. This makes extending the cables a pain and the standard ones are too short to reliably mount the control box on the under deck of the enclosure. I ended up purchasing sets of male and female connectors and set to work with the soldering iron. I bought an extension cable set for a CR10. One of the cables actually fitted the E12 but the rest I used to make up a new set of leads, extending the originals by around half a metre or so. The intention is to mount the control box on some drawer runners in the void beneath the printer deck. I'll update once I get a satisfactory solution but looks like it's going to be back to Fusion 360 to draw up a set of mounts.
Merry Christmas for those reading this near the edit date.
Additional Info. (The spool cover mod)
During the holiday period, I noticed that my printing of PETG models was starting to have problems and I've come to the conclusion that moisture absorption from the atmosphere is a significant problem with PETG filament. With the spool mounted on the top of the enclosure, it has a much greater exposure to the surrounding air and whilst I was away with work, the heating was turned off in the "Mancave" so it probably got a bit more humid too which wouldn't have helped. So I've designed and made a spool cover which simply sits over the spool on the Lack lid. This is still a work in progress as I'm looking at fixing it onto the lid to stop it falling off when you remove the cover but more importantly, the spool cover has desiccant canisters fitted to keep the spool dry. It seems to work fine but I want to make a good seal at the bottom and work out a locating and securing system so still having a headscratch at the moment. Any suggestions welcome at this point. Maybe magnetic or a set of brackets to fit to the lack lid. Will post once I've had a brainstorm. The cover is here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3333982) but I've also added the files onto this project for simplicity.
E12 update (April 2019)
Apologies for delay but work has taken over my life for the past few months. I've had a chance to look at the Lack mods required to house the E12. I've redesigned the mounting system for the Lack enclosure part to offset the legs front and back. This should give the enclosure an additional 102mm space in the X direction so around 530mm for the A6 internal dimensions so a total of 632mm. Given the bed on the E12 requires a theoretical 600mm of travel to cover the entire build area, the additional 30mm should allow some clearance for the electrical connector although I might have to make a cable support to give it a nice tight supported bend or consider turning the bed through 90 degrees.
The offset supports are designed to work with the existing removable bed components and still support the power connection system. I've not printed a full set off yet and I have to go back to work next week so won't be around to continue the project for at least 2 weeks. I've uploaded the stl's in the meantime in case someone fancies having a go in my absence. Please let me know of any successes or failures.