This is one of my more unnecessary designs. You can easily buy a restaurant-grade tortilla keeper from Amazon for less than $5.00. If you have a restaurant supply store nearby, you can probably pick one up for $2-$3.
If, like me, you decide that you would rather make your own - after all you've got this 3D printer right here and you'll be darned if you're going to let long print times and the cost of filament keep you from spending 6+ hours printing a $5 item - then this is the model for you. It will easily hold a 10-pack of 8" store-bought tortillas and should keep them warm long enough to serve and enjoy.
One factor that may help you decide whether or not to make this thing is the size. This keeper is 220mm in diameter - a touch too large for many print beds, my Prusa's included. I used my Tevo Little Monster and my CR10, both of which have larger beds.
I would suggest making this out of PETG, due to the PLA-melting temperatures of a tortilla hot off the grill. If you do use PLA, put down a couple of layers of parchment paper to help insulate the keeper a bit but don't be surprised if the inside-bottom gets a little less flat. Tip: lay a piece of parchment paper across the open top of the keeper and press the lid on - cut around the resulting impression.
I would not recommend using this to hold tortillas while heating them in a microwave - hot spots may exceed the sag-point of even PETG. It does work well keeping just-re-grilled tortillas warm at the dining table - it's intended purpose. [update: it actually does a good job in the microwave - PLA or PETG - no overheated plastic at all.]
Remember, while PLA and PETG are considered food-safe plastic - safe for direct contact with food - it's a good bet that your printer and printing environment are not food safe. And no FDM-created item is completely non-porous, and food (and cleaning water) can be trapped inside the object and become definitely not food-safe. So wipe it clean when needed and do not soak it.
I used .32 for everything
The lid is oriented to print top-down. If your print bed surface doesn't make attractive first layers, you can flip it over and use supports - not recommended.
You may want more top layers than usual to help hide the infill pattern - made visible due to a slightly sagging bridging layer as the solid layers begin - especially if you use a low percentage infill. I used 4 top layers for those pictured and the infill pattern is still visible. Of course, you may prefer the more "industrial" look of the grid pattern. Additional bottom layers are not necessary
The orange tortilla keeper was printed in AIO "Orange" PLA. The black keeper was printed in eSUN "Solid Black" PETG.
The knob prints separately and needs to be glued on. Due to the often-less-than-solid filament strands of the first bridging layer, I would not recommend a watery adhesive like superglue. I used Loctite Stick N' Seal Ultra because I had that available. It worked well on PLA and PETG. Others (epoxy, etc.) will work too, of course.
Note that the knob is tapered - the narrow end fits in the groove on the top of the lid.
I created this in OpenSCAD. I chose the height of this container based on my expected needs. If you think you need a taller one or one with a different diameter, let me know and I can gen it up for you. I may end up making this a customizer item.