I printed the original design and had some issues with fitting the parts in the case. So this is a remix with a bit more room and some other adjustments. Many thanks to BiscuitsOnTheFloor for the original design! That design, along with some kind folks at the Annapolis Makerspace inspired this re-work and usage of the RaspiZeroW along with the "Motion" application program to make some programmable security cameras.
Anyway, on my print of the original there was not adequate room for the flex cable end that connects into the Pi Zero-W. So I extended that end of the top and bottom cases slightly. The pi-cam assy did not seat securely onto the mounting standoffs and had some interference & offset between the base of the lens and the case. I increased the dimensions and depth of camera relief area, and shifted the lens opening down into the camera mounting post area slightly. (It's better but still not quite right.) Note that the camera's lens assy is "held" in position on its PCB only with thin mastic-like tape, so perhaps some additional tolerance is needed there.
A tip for any folks constructing this case, the Pi-cam it is designed to contain is the least expensive with the smallest lens. Here is an example source for one at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078Y63QNG
You will need the camera flex cable type that works with the Pi-Zero / Zero-W. The camera connector on the Zero and Zero-W is smaller than the camera connector used on the Pi1/2/3 series. Many of the Pi-cams that I found for sale online include BOTH types of flex cables.
IMO the Pi-Zero/W's camera connector is tiny and rather delicate. Be careful not to stress it in any way. Particularly, do not drop the darn thing off the table while it is powered and all connected together and then grab some part of it in mid-air while giving it a good yank. This MIGHT break the itsy-bitsy-teenie-weenie camera connector on the Pi.
Update: Took another shot at positioning the camera lens opening. Better, but not perfect. File has been replaced with a new version. By the way, I've been using M2-3mm flat heads to hold the camera, and M3 bolts without nuts to hold the halves together.
Removing supports after the part is well cooled can be easier than when it is still warm.