Secret Butterfly Box

by 3DPRINTINGWORLD Jul 8, 2018
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WOWWWWWWamazing desing friend, i will print with GOT stark, when i finish i post the make!! thanks so much!!

That will be cool! Good idea, I love me some GOT!

so much fun to make and put together. very simple print. a few things I had to sand to get it to fit, but I'm pretty sure those are my own errors on being so new to 3d printing. My kids all fight over who gets to "play " with it. also I printed the spring in PLA and it works just fine.

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Glad you like it! There is a easy solution, just make one for each of your children!

Great job!
Very well documented.
Thank you very much for sharing.

Hi there,

How much PLA is required for all the parts to be printed?

I'm sorry but I honestly never paid attention. Maybe someone else can chime in.

No worries, I just checked in cura and all pieces come to 331 g of PLA with 100% scale. ;)

No worries, I just checked in cura and all pieces come to 331 g of PLA with 100% scale. ;)

BLANK-TITLE_ASSY.stl contains all 5 lamellas. I can't print them standing up. I want to print each one separately. Please put each lamella in a separate STL file. Thank you!

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The SBFB-FRONT_TITLE.stl consists of 2 pieces. Could You please provide two separate parts ? I want to print them standing up for better looks of the surface and the lines on it.


How long did this take to print and how much filament did the whole box use?

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So whats the trick to get the little sliding peace on the front bottom to not be lose? All my parts seam to fit perfict but the slider just flops around.

I have this same issue with one type of filament for some reason. I opened the slides and mixed a small amount of super glue with baby power and put a dab of it in front the the large slide(if its already assembled). Then let it dry and file the top of the dab down until the slide has the proper amount of friction to keep it shut.

Is there certain pen brand the spring should be taken from? I believe the spring I am using is too long. It bends out of track when the latch is closed. It will be only a matter of time when it will pop out completely.

If your spring is too long you can easily cut them cut shorter with a pair of wire cutters.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Just some sage advice on printing the spring: Sink it into the bed about one layer height, and also print it in vase mode. This vastly simplified the travels on my printhead. Also ABS is tougher, but darn hard to print with. Piece of masking tape on your bed, then put some ABS/acetone slurry on top of that. It stuck well.

Are there STLs of the butterflies you would be able to share?

Sorry for the delay, it fell thru the cracks. You can find a stl of just the butterfly in the files.

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I was just wondering what your print setting are , I am sanding a lot of parts like Title panels , I am using Hatchbox Top 3 Bottom 3 and 3 outer shells at 20% infill.

Your settings sound about right, but nothing special. Make sure your first layer height is correct and your extrusion multiplier is dialed in. I have made a bunch of these boxes so far and I haven't had to do any fitting.

So, trying to print a remix of this on a Pico printer (less than 200 x 200 x 200 build envelope) and I've run into a problem. One, scaling it down to 75% made it able to be printed on my machine, but now I cannot use a pen spring for the latch.

Everything was included for me...

It seems one piece to print isn't included, the strip along the front of the lid, do people print another set of 'front title' and take off the slide parts?

It's a part of the lid already. There's no need to print anything more than the lid, for the lid.

I started printing this and every piece turned into a mess on the build plate. After much handwringing, I realized that the temperature settings were the problem. I reduced the temp on the build plate from 100 degrees to 60 and raised the extruder heat to 210. They are all now printing beautifully! I'll post a photo when I get it put together. Oh, BTW, I'm using a Flashforge Dreamer.

I printed the spring in PETG and it worked great initially, but it has lost a lot of it's recoil over time.

Thanks for the feedback, ABS does this as well.

Anyone tried printing the spring in pla yet?

I did. It did not work very well. :(

I did and mine works perfect i just had to snip off the last part of the spring since it was a little to long.

I love this design, great thanks to the creator!

Hi, can you maybe make the hinge hole 3mm for us ultimaker users? Thanks.

Hi , i don't fint the STl part to connect the top the the middle part of the Box

You use a length 1.75mm filament as the hinge pin between the middle and the top of the box. Just put a little glue on it to hold it in place.

cool box. I made 3 of them. The blank top and front tiles were much appreciated. I made a Harry potter one and an avengers one. Great stuff. Im still working out the Avengers tiles but I had a ton of fun making these and my kids really love em

Awesome remix's and I enjoyed the videos!

I found that a spring from a standard ballpoint pen worked refectory for the unlocking mechanism.

Yep, it was designed to use a pen spring.

"7/22/18 - I added a blank top and title assembly for all you butterfly haters."

This made me LOL.

Great design! I'm going to print one out for my daughter's birthday! Cheers!

can you print it all in PLA?

All except the spring. Use WOSPRING version if you're using PLA or print the spring in PETG/ABS.

This is awesome, thanks a lot (I did it with the Jolly Rogers on the lid)

can you make a skullversion for boys?

I was going to but rorech saved me the trouble and made a really nice remix!

I have an idea for my own version I might try someday when I get a little time but right now I have another project consuming my time.

Secret Jolly Rogers Box
by rorech

What are the differences in the files Drawer and WOSPRING Drawer?

The drawer that doesn’t use the spring has a little handle to help pull out the drawer from the box.

This is a very cool design. No problems printing the parts except the key. The first bows of the key are warping, so that the nozzle tears the whole key off the bed. I tried on two different printers with different PLA. No way getting the key printed. I used 5 shells and 40% infill. It does not matter how fast I print. Any hints on that?

Edit September 09, 2018:
Finally I did it. Nor changing the slicer, neither experimenting with brim, raft or anything else worked for me.
The only solution that worked was printing with support. See the attached file for the position of the support.

I added a remix of the key that will not have the issue of being knocked over.

Hey, I had the same problem printing with PLA. it would warp near the top and the nozzle would clash and knock if off the bed. I have around 6 half keys printed.

Solved it by printing with supports. (brim didn't work for me)

Have you guys tried a brim with more then one layer? I had a single layer brim fail so I switched to 3 layers and never had a issue after that. It was just as easy to remove it too.

Hey mate

It can print with a brim, I've done it with PETG which is quite a bit stickier. I've still have PETG fail though so it is a tough print.

My advice, and this is what I will be testing tonight, is to print the keys with a multi-layer brim. Some slicers allow this as an option, my one (Slic3r Prusa Edition does not), but if not you can set a multi-layer skirt with 0 distance to the object.

I'll be trying with a 3 layer brim tonight.

Example settings in Slic3r PE here: https://i.imgur.com/vn3KLDS.png

This is exactly what I tried some days ago. Same behaviour with this multilayer brim. I will try another slicer as soon as I am back from holidays. I am using S3D.

My next go-to attempt was going to adjust the Z-Height adjust during the print when we get towards the top of the key so that the printer is not squashing the layers quite so hard at the top. You can do this on the Prusa using Live Adjust Z on the controller.

I also had the same issue. Key prints beautifully up to about 45.6 mm. Failed twice, where the nozzle toppled it over. Glad it wasn't just me! Which slicer did you use? I used S3D.

I added a remix of the key that will be easier to print

I also use S3D. If I am back from holidays I will try another slicer just to take a look where the differences are.

Hey mate

It can print with a brim, I've done it with PETG which is quite a bit stickier. I've still have PETG fail though so it is a tough print.

My advice, and this is what I will be testing tonight, is to print the keys with a multi-layer brim. Some slicers allow this as an option, my one (Slic3r Prusa Edition does not), but if not you can set a multi-layer skirt with 0 distance to the object.

I'll be trying with a 3 layer brim tonight.

Example settings in Slic3r PE here: https://i.imgur.com/vn3KLDS.png

Are you printing the key with a brim? If not, that is the problem.

I am printing it with brim, large brim. The problem is not the warping on the "food" it is the warping on the bows.

I had the same problem, I ended up switching slicers (I went from Cura to Craftbot) and that was enough to fix the issue. Also a raft worked better for me than a brim, but your mileage may vary.

Hope this helps and best of luck!!

im honestly in LOVE with that material you printed with as well, wow

So for the spring, is it too rigid if printed in PLA as opposed to ABS? Could I use flexible PLA instead, or would I be safer just using the drawer option instead?

PLA will snap 100%, and when the box is glued together you'll be hard-pushed to fix it.

PETG is more springy than ABS (by more springy, I mean more flexible) so both will work. PETG will have less force and that will degrade over time. ABS will likely degrade over time also, but less so.

Sorry I cant say for sure as I have not tried it. I would think that PLA would work but may loose it springiness after a while, but so does ABS. PETG might work best but I have not tried it.

This box is awesome! I wish there was a way to have multiple configurations though for this box though. Both of my kids want one but then dont want the other one to be able to get into it.

Ha ha! You could mirror one box in your slicer... LOL

Hi, love this, do we print the pieces as they're placed on bed in the file images or do they need 'rearranging' so they lay flat/stand up?
Also there's two files for the drawer, noob question but whats the difference please?

The stl's are designed to be printed as shown without supports. The top and the front titles are designed to stand upright to help eliminate layer lines and to get better details out of the butterflies.

So the butterfly top stands on it's end? Not flat? sorry i'm just double checking, i've only just started my print adventure,thanks :-)

Yes! Trust me it will work out. All other orientations will require supports and the butterflies wont turn out as well.

Thanks, what settings did you use? i'm a Cura user so as much detail would be appreciated,
layer/initial layer height, wall thickness, infill, print speed and any others.
I tried to do the 'Middle' and it said was 1 day 6 hours just for that but the thin part at the front came off the bed.
Thank you for any help.

Hi John! My Mother in law got impressed with the box :) I'm in vacation in Romania and in some souvenir shop in the middle of the Carpatos Mountains I found some very similar boxes wich were invented in Romania as the seller said... Of course he got surprised when he saw i knew how to open it... I really don't like commertial lieing people! Excuse me for my english. Is there place for one more maker in your bussines??? Count with me :)

And one more time thanks for your design!

Wow, that looks like a beautiful plate to visit! I wish we had mountains where I live but its pancake flat. :(

Another user commented that the box originated from Hungary. If you follow the link in the description to the "Korean Box", I designed it from a box my grandfather purchased from Korea almost seventy years ago! I don't know if it originated from eastern Europe or Asia but either way its been around for a long time. Its so much easier for us to make on our 3D printers. :)

Mountains aren't, all the same, the ut picture are the ones I live next to now, the stevi is where I used to live see the difference

I just wanted to thank you for the supreme amount of effort you have put in to this design. It looks fantastic and I'll be printing it shortly for my kids. I think I'll modify it to have a Autobots logo on the top!

The instructions are fantastic & you are putting so much time in to the comments here too. Might I suggest updating the description with the filament and print settings you have used (layer height, shells, infill etc.) so you don't have to answer those questions here.

You can't beat the price, either...

Have a beer on me.

One quick question, I have a Mk3 also. Do you use Sli3r Prusa Edition? It looks like you have it dialled in perfectly.

Edit: I made a quick Remix in Rhino to have an Autobot logo on the top of the box for those that wanted it.


Secret Transformer Box - Autobot Logo
by mrflib

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll add some print setting when I get a second.

I did use Sli3r on my MK3 to make the box in the picture. I spend most of my time designing things so I haven't been able to spend much time dialing in the printer. I just started with the standard profile but made a few adjustments. I've been happy enough with the results so far.

What would be a good way to personalize the boxes with a name? Two girls, two pink boxes.

Personally I use MeshMixer, which is free, to do simple modifications to models. You can take any two models, scale and transform them, and then combine them into one. This print has blank tops included which you could modify.

To create the customization files I would personally use Fusion 360, which you can get a free license for as a hobbiest (for a 1 year period). It is a CAD style program, not a sculpting program. So you can write text or use sketches to generate your design fairly easily and export it as an STL. Then import the customized design and the box top into MeshMixer and combine them.

One of the most beautiful and fun prints I've ever done, thank you. Everything printed perfect first try, and fit in a single print on my Prusa Mk2S.

It's almost a shame that it prints so beautifully in Elixir, as now I can't imagine printing it in anything more cost effective. :)

Thanks for creating this.

Thanks for the kind words! I love my Prusa too! I have not tried a polyachemy filament yet but the Elixir colors look like they would look really nice.

I liked it so much I made two! Thanks for great design and instructional videos...

I seen your make they look really good! Thanks for posting!

Printed everything without a problem but struggling to print the middle section, the small stip at the front fails everytime and ends up coming loose and making the print fail, any ideas ?

Sorry to hear that! Sounds like you are having issues with that thin section sticking to your bed. What is your bed surface?

mirrored glass with hairspray, never had an issue before but have decided to print with a raft, wish me luck

Glass and hairspray normally work great! You could try a brim instead of a full raft, that might work. Anyways, good luck!

This is a clever design, and it came out well. But I struggled a lot with some of the fits - mostly the mortise/tenon for the front pieces, and the key/keyhole. Each required an hour of carving before the parts would fit. This may have been due to my extrusion multiplier or temperature, or the PLA itself. Whatever the cause, be aware that these are tight fits, so do anything you can to prevent material expansion into spaces. (I also printed with 0.5mm nozzle, but I don't think that should change something like the width of a mortise or tenon). Anyway, thanks for posting it.

I've printed more then ten of these on two different printers and I had zero post processing. One other person commented that they had issues but it turned out that they had a bit of elephants foot so maybe check that.

I don’t think it is elephant foot, because these features are not near the bottom. The pieces seem perfectly formed, and for example the flat parts fit together flat. I also assume the slicer is smart enough to account for the nozzle width, and run the nozzle inside the wall location such that the outside of the wall is in the correct place. But I think when I print a single wall, it is typically quite a bit north of 0.5mm thick, so that probably is the reason for the ill fit. Some combination of extrusion multiplier / extrusion width. I will adjust these down until a single wall is 0.5mm thick or less, and then try again.

I would like to get this printing well, because it is an awesome way to give a gift to somebody. Who can complain about a poor gift, when it comes in an awesome puzzle box? This would enable me to give everybody super lame birthday gifts, saving me much time and money….lol.

Again, thanks for creating/posting it. Well done.

So I saw several requests for skull and/or crossbones. Maybe along that idea, redo the lid like a rounded top of a pirate chest? Would probably also look good to make the tiles go all the way around like they were wooden slats.

Nice design, but what was the total printing time?

I printed parts in two batches on a Lulzbot TAZ6 with 0.25mm layer height. First batch took about 9.5hours, and second batch about 4. Then I printed the key and spring separately, both are quick. Key was about an hour, spring about 15 mins. Of course this will vary a lot depending on your slicer settings. I used 2 walls side, top and bottom, and about 10-13% infill. Came out solid enough that way.

I'd vote for a plain version and perhaps source files so I could put anything on it. I want to make one for my cousin who's badly into Harry Potter, and want to make one in a Harry Potter theme with a gold printed Golden Snitch hidden in it.

This thing is great! Ordered a marble filament and am currently printing 3 copies of this, will post pics when completed, but it is looking awesome!

Awesome! I have to get me some of that marble filament.

It looks like cookies and cream, but the pictures don't do it justice. Im very happy with the look of the prints in person. I should be done with my 3 prints by Monday and posting my make of it. Printing at a slow 50mm per the filament suggestion.

Such a elegant smart design!. I am for the pirate one two with skull and cross bones. Love this. I will have to make this.

How will you print the SBFB-TOP and/or SBFB-TITLE_ASSY without support? That's impossible, because the butterflies make a 90° angle.....?!

You can print it without supports because the overhangs are so small as long you have proper cooling, assuming that you are printing with PLA.

Ok, sounds possible. :-) Thanks for you amazing work.

Amazing! Great share thanks!

Thanks for sharing this design. My wife begged me to make this, and now shes so happy. The spring key is cool. Now son wants one.... Skull and bones vote here too.

Super cool. I need a pirate one with skulls for my boy.

Thanks! I'm waiting for everyone's suggestion then when I found some time I was going to pick the one I liked the best and make another version. So far it's the skull and crossbones.

+1 for Skull and Crossbones! Awesome work, thanks for sharing

I have a Monoprice select mini V2. It has a 120mm x 120mm bed. Will this work if I scale it down? 80% will fit on my bed.

I love my V1 but I don't think this box will scale very well unless you change to a smaller nozzle, use something with a smaller diameter for the hinge, and find a smaller spring for the catch.

Also another MSPM V2 user here. Playing with the orientation on the largest items like the top and bottom of the box, I can get them to fit in Cura if they're standing (top by default is, bottom isn't) and oriented diagonally, but having never printed things like that, does anyone know if it'll turn out ok at all? Also concerned that with something this tall, aren't the chances for it wobbling as it gets higher up all the greater, which would skew and ruin the layers? I know one time I tried printing something tall and relatively thin that's what happened (though to be fair it was significantly thinner than this item and was on the default build-tak lite bed instead of the glass I have now), so yeah...there's no issues with that?

You won't have any issues if you rotate things diagonally. I thought I tried this on my V1 but I still couldn't get the bottom to fit. As things get higher you can get more ringing but the top is not high enough or thin enough for this to happen.

Awesome job and awesome print too for a MK3! You should post this on the Prusa FB group for others to believe what the machine can do ;)
Thanks for sharing! :D

Thanks, I love my MK3! I'm also a member of the prusa FB group! I did share it on the Pursa Print's group but not the main group. Feel free to share it!

I’m having trouble with the key. What layer height and infill should I use? It seems to ball up after the first bump. Everything else looks great.

I don't quite understand what you mean by "ball up"? I would suggest more shell's and a higher infill for the key but not to make it easier to print but so its stronger. I printed everything with 2-3 shells and 15% infill but I would suggest 4-5 shells and 50% infill for the key. Layer height would affect cosmetics more than anything, I printed at .175mm. You should print the key with a Brim to keep it from tipping over since such a small amount touches the bed. I would print it with a brim 10 or so passes 2 or 3 layers high.

Can I ask, how are people modifying the plain top and tiles? I see names etc in other folks makes.
I'm using Fusion 360 but read that its not possible to import and modify an STL. ??

To modify a STL in Fusion 360 you have to import the file, then convert the mesh to bRep, then you can do joins/cuts/whatever else you want to do. The only problem is it will come in as a complex shape with a ton of triangles so it will slow down Fusion a lot. I use the "reduce" function in the mesh editor to fix that a bit, but it is still quite complex

What glue did you use to put it together?

Awesome design BTW.

I like to use Gorilla super glue. Loctite gel also works well but it seems like the Gorilla glue goes a lot farther for the money. I brought ten of these boxes to MRRF this year and hundreds of people opened them and I didn't have any issues with the boxes holding up. I did have a couple of kids break the keys so I would suggest more shells when printing the key.

Looks like the scales are off.
I printed everything on the CR10, I have checked everything my calipers and it matches the dims in the slicer down to 0.01mm but will not go together.
To me, it appears that the plain parts that you have replaced the butterfly's with are too large.
The box goes together perfectly. Lock and key functions as they are meant to. Everything goes together perfectly until I attempted to add the front false panels. The sliders at the bottom (front) are too wide, same with the one at the side that holds the key tray in.
I tried cutting them back with a knife, shaved off 2mm off them and still too big.

I might attempt to print it again some time with the butterfly facets and see if that works then, but for now I have just thrown 16 hours of printing into the bin.

Sorry you are having issues.There are plenty of makes that used the plain parts that did not report an issue. 2mm off is a lot! I have also brought in both versions into my slicer and aligned centers and they are exactly the same size.

I think I may have figured it out in the end.
I was just going to take the bottom off and use the key. After removing the base and fiddling around, it looks like I was spending all my time on the side slider but it was one of the front sliders. I looked at it closer and it was 100% my fault. Because of the headed bed the first layers of the slider had elephant foot. I shaved them down and now it seems to be working.
I thought it was the slider in front of the key drawer, but because the front ones were 'flared' it prevented things siting properly.

Oh, good! That’s a easy fix. I was going to suggest elephants foot, I should have it would have made me look smarter. :)

Haha its all good. I probably should have done it on one of my printers that I know, instead I ran it off on my latest printer that I am not THAT familiar with and have not got the settings 100% down yet.
I have 6 printers and the most recent I picked up a little while ago. I said I printed it on the cr10 but I got muddled, I did it on the Tornado because its got a 0.4, my CR-10 has a 0.8 which wouldnt have worked with the 'spring'
But yeah, the Tornado's bed may be off in temp, had it on 40 but I think its closer to 60+ which caused the elephant foot. I will have to get my temp gauge on it and figure out whats going on.

Sorry, but how is BLANK-TOP printed without supports? I'm not seeing an elegant way other than putting the top of the part on the bed.

If you flip it over 180 degrees it should print fine without supports.

Painfully obvious now that you've said that. Thanks!

How long does it take to print everything?

I never really kept track but I would guess in the 25hr range.

Very nice design. Thanks for sharing!

This design is amazing! And I personally adore that it has butterflies as they are the support symbol for Lupus! (In purple) my question is, is there a work around for using only PLA? Could it be made with a round storebought sprintg if I can find one in the righ width? I’m not sure how much “loose space” is in there...

i'm sure a metal spring would work if you found one the right size. There is also a drawer that has a little handle on it so a spring is not required.

Oh yep now I see that in the info... sorry. That’s is awesome! Thank you so much!

what kind of filament did you use my daughter loves pink and this is gorgeous

I too would love to know this? I am reading through the comments for this very information.

Its below in the comments a couple of places. Solutech Ultra Hot Pink.

This is so smart and cool

Heads up the blank lid is oriented upside down.

So if I orient it the other way, it won't fray like it just did to me? It got almost done and started fraying and the one end is now all messed up, have to reprint it.

Oh, I didn’t notice that. Yes, it should be printed flipped 180 degrees. I’ll get it updated lickety split!

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Someone should do a remix with transformer logos. Haha! Sorry, just a transformers junkie. Really awesome box. Glad to see there are options for the butterflies. I don't hate on them, they just aren't my thing. I'll still give this a try without, but will def print it again later with as a gift to someone! Thanks for sharing.

Here you go mate, made a remix for you.


Secret Transformer Box - Autobot Logo
by mrflib

Dude! That's awesome! Thanks a lot! Hope that wasn't too difficult or time consuming to do! How hard would it be to put small logos on the front too? Sort of like how the original has the butterflies? Just curious! But a super huge thanks again!!

Great work, congratulations!.
Will I need to use an enclosure to print the ABS spring?. Since it is a small print I thought maybe I could get away without using one.

I haven't tried as I have an enclosure but it might work as its only a single wall. Or, you could try PETG.

Why is this korean ? It look 100% like the hugnarian puzzle box

Because it is modeled after a box my grandfather brought back from Korea almost 70 years ago and it has a scene of the Korean countryside on the top.

Which printer was used to print those?
Quality is so good.

Thanks! The box in the picture was printed on a stock Prusa MK3.

Great work! This is printed as is from downloaded files? I'm sure it is, but want to confirm because the details on the butterflies I printed don't look very good. Probably have to tweek my own settings here. It seems like its just the first few layers of the start of the butterflies hang because it has nothing to catch on. NO Supports though? I understand they don't overhang much at all, but any suggestion on how to avoid this and get a clean detailed butterfly?

Yeah, those are the stl's I printed. There are some overhangs but I did not have any issues printing them without supports. The only thing I would suggest is to make sure your fan is on 100 percent and is facing the overhangs. Lowering the layer height might also help.

This is freaking beautiful! Amazing work!

Really nicely designed and put together. How scalable would this box be? would love to print a mini version, maybe say 50%....
sorry, read the the comments..and see you've answered this. Still, would be cool tho :)

Curious how you got such a smooth surface on this piece. Was it coated XTC or some type of finish coating?

No finish was applied. Just Solutech ultra pink PLA on a stock Prusa MK3. I did design the butterfly details to be printed vertically to hide the layer lines.

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This is very beatiful and well designed for printing. Thank you very much :D

Your welcome! Glad you like it.

Going to sound funny, but I know you have the flat top, but could you upload a separate STL for the butterflys? I want to two color, or if pursa ever gets their multi extruder out, 4 color the exteriors.

OH! I know, wood PLA with some kind of metal bronze like pla. Ugh going to be busy a week on this.

Hey, I put the butterflies in a separate stl but the details are small and I don't think it will make for a good multi color print. For this to work well I would need to extend the butterflies into the lid so it prints the color longer which will make it work better for multicolor printing. This is more work, I will do it for you but I wanted to make sure that you are actually going to print it before I do.

I can do that, I actually have the butterflies as a separate model. Just give me a day or two and you will find them in the file section.

This reminds me of a puzzle box I bought in Adana, Turkey when I was in the Air force. Awesome work...gonna make one for my granddaughter and maybe a couple for my grandsons if I can figure out how to man it up a bit lol! Many Thanks for all your hard work!

If you follow the link in the description to the Korean box you will see that it's modeled after a box my grandfather brought back from the Korean War. That was in 1952, I'm sure there are many version of this box out there. It took a while to figure out haw to make it 3D printable but the real talent lies in the person who designed the box orgionaly. You could make the Koren box version for your grandsons or I did load a version without the butterflies in the file section.

That's amazing and beautiful! The material was sexy too.

My daughter is going to lose her mind when this is done. Thank you so much!

my daughter loved it, so big thanks for putting a smaile on her face but now my wife is moaning for a ladybug one, i told its not like its a shop you can just pick one off the shelf. lol

That is awesome.
Great job!

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I have just completed this print for my daughter. She absolutely loves it. It's an amazing print, really easy to print, no problems with assembly and works as the designer intended. 5 stars, truly is one of the most satisfying prints I've done to date.

Awesome! I designed the butterfly version for my daughter too.

Amazing design, looking forward to printing...

Can this be scaled 150%-200%? I want it large enough to hold several Silver Eagle tubes.

Scaling it up might work but I can't say for sure.

This looks really well done, Great Job!

The box is awesome. You just have to really love butterflies. Really need another option.

Now, This box can be opened by everyone.

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Am printing out the current design (butterflies) since it is so well done. But my son has said he was going to use my belt sander to remove the butterflies for one he wants to print to use at school. So he would appreciate the plain version. :D

Fantastic work!

Maybe we need a version with a more masculine theme... Any suggestions?

Skulls! Or bats. . . But no, skulls!!

Dr.Strange, Lord of the rings, or harry potter depending on what your in to.

BATMAN! Make a Batman one! That would be cool. My niece will love this though. :-) Wish I had a printer lol

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Sherlock Homes! The books by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.

any chance you'll upload the alternate design?

Don’t like butterflies? I thought everyone loved butterflies... I can upload a blank version without the butterflies?

I love it- but I’m going for a D&D mysterious dice box like a wood carved one using the same puzzle my friend has (and the tree design super meshed with that aesthetic, although a blank one would let me customize it for my character) but A+ job with the designing, it looks simply stunning (especially in that filament)!

I can upload a version without the butterflies, just give me a little bit. By the way, I have made a version in Hatchbox wood and it turned out great.

I uploaded a version without the butterflies as requested.

where did you upload it? I don't see it on your profile

It's in the file section with the other stl's.

what filament did you use i love the color

Solutech Ultra Pink

Short answer no. If your extrusion width is bigger then .45mm or so you are going to loose some of the details in the butterfly, so if you made it smaller you would have to use a smaller nozzle. Plus I’m not sure what will happen with less clearances in the sliding parts. The spring used in the catch and the filament used for the hinge will also be too large.

This thing is so stupid awesome.

Very nice print and design, thank you for sharing, that is a nice color filament, do you mind telling me what brand and color that is?

Thanks! Its Solutech Ultra Pink. People always ask about this color. Its also pretty cheap, available on Amazon, and made in the US.

I love the filament you have used ... what is it ? Also I like your design.

Thanks for the kind words! Its Solutech Ultra Pink. Everyone seems to love this color.

really cool , but personally don't like the design but sill amazing idea

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