!!!!!!!!ATTENTION: READ THIS BEFORE PRINTING.
Choosing the correct size/type pushbuttons can be a problem if you dont know what to look for. Even if you dont plan to print this model and you go for a different build, please read the following:
I used buttons which have a mounting hole of 28mm wide. The top part that rests on the panel is at ~33mm. These buttons are screwed onto the panel.
There are also pushbuttons which click/slide in. These are mostly called "30mm pushbuttons".
"Sanwa" for example is a brand/type name, and has 30mm and 24mm standard size buttons. These buttons have a mounting hole of 30 and 24mm. Their top parts are respectively ~33mm and ~27mm. There are sets online which have 6x30mm and 2x24mm buttons.
Now as most of us are building on the cheap, here is an important detail!
Some chinese knockoffs and their retailers mix up the dimensions of these Sanwa clone buttons. Some Sanwa 30mm clones have a mounting hole of 28mm!. But original ones have 30mm
I have added a couple of optional model changes for the buttonpanel.stl and bottom.stl. Right now they both have 28mm holes. If you have 28mm buttons then use it as is.
I added 2 extra buttonpanels with 30mm mounting holes and a version with 8 buttons on top (30mm). (also the original 6x28mm version)
I have also added 2 extra versions of the bottom.stl with mounting holes for 24mm and 30mm. (and the original 28mm version)
I'll add a couple of links for the joystick and buttons. Measure your buttons first OR when ordering one from my links measure it up before you print one of the panels.
Its always fun to design and print your own stuff. I really like the japanese/modern style arcade cabinets, so i tried to resemble one with this build.
You will need a big printing volume/bed. The button panel is slightly larger than 25x25 cm. I used my CR10 (standard), which has a building volume of 30x30x40cm.
Print on glass (mirror) for smooth finish. I use strong cheap hairspray to make prints stick perfect.
For more details and in action see also my video (please like and sub, if you will :))
Assembly is very easy. I only used screws for the joystick. Everything else is held together with friction, hotglue and zipties.
Inside there is an MXQ tv box which i flashed with ScottElec (fork of LibreElec). But for gaming rpi 3 is probably better.
Shorten the usb cables and stuff as much as possible to save room (i did this after my video)
The button holes on the buttonpanel are 28mm. The links i added below contain possible different sized buttons, check above!!!
I used a cheap 7inch 1024x600 monitor.
The speakers are 2inch 3w speakers and i used a cheap amplifier for them.
Use rubber adhesive pads for the feet.
Everything is powered through the usb ports of the tv box.
MXQ box i used. It already has bluetooth and wifi build in
If you are using a Raspberry, make sure the power adapter has enough amps 2.5 or 3 amp preferably.
Better pushbuttons, joystick and usb encoder (i'll add more)
7inch display i used (i didnt use the button panel, not necessary (only for initial adjusting brightness colours)
Get a big 3d printer (cr10) here
-Short flexible hdmi cable would be nice to attach the display.
-I shortened the usb cable for the zero delay pushbutton controller.
-To attach the speakers to amp i used some scrap wiring and cut an old aux cable and usb cable.
To do list:
-Knob for volume control
-IO bracket or something for holes
-Add 2 extra button panel options for 30mm pushbuttons. one for 6 button config and one for 8 button.
Get a big 3d printer (cr10) here
Info on Scottelec project