Loading

Case for 7" touch monitor LS-7T

by bjoerngiesler, published

Case for 7" touch monitor LS-7T by bjoerngiesler Apr 13, 2014
5 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps

Contents

Tags

Use This Project

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

29592Views 4293Downloads Found in Computer

Summary

German internet shop Pollin sells a 7" monitor, the LS-7 (or LS-7T as touch version) for very cheap.

http://www.pollin.de/shop/dt/NzUwOTc4OTk-/Bauelemente_Bauteile/Aktive_Bauelemente/Displays/7_17_78_cm_Display_Set_LS_7_HDMI_DVI_VGA_CVBS.html

http://www.pollin.de/shop/dt/NTMwOTc4OTk-/Bauelemente_Bauteile/Aktive_Bauelemente/Displays/7_17_78_cm_Display_Set_mit_Touchscreen_LS_7T_HDMI_DVI_VGA_CVBS.html

At the time of writing, it costs 40 Euros for the non-touch version and 50 Euros for the one with touch. Display resolution is 1024x600, but it will scale down everything up to 1080p. It has HDMI, DVI and VGA connectors so it is a very good fit for the Raspberry Pi, ODROID U2/3 or other small computers. I am going to use it with an ODROID that controls my ShapeOko router. First tests indicate that the inductive touch function works quite well for button-based interfaces, and even using an on-screen keyboard is OK.

The only downside of this screen is that it comes without an enclosure, just the bare electronics. I still really liked the display so I modeled an enclosure in Sketchup. It's a bit fiddly to mount the components but once you have everything in it fits quite well. I had no room to put the composite (CVBS) socket. That is the only connector except power that is not mounted on the main board but comes as a dongle. It needs to be snipped off. But composite video is going the way of the Dodo anyway, right? :-)

The way the display and board are constructed, if you mount them back-to-back like in this case then the DVI/HDMI/VGA sockets come out on top, which makes the display a bit awkward to hold in your hands. So if you want them to be on bottom you need to rotate the screen image by 180 degrees (for example using the XRandR extension in Linux, or AltGr-DownArrow in Windows).

Instructions

Printing is straight-forward but make sure you have a printing surface at least 20x20cm. Print out the bottom and top panels.

After printing, thread the four holes in the center of the back housing as M4 if you want. These are for fitting a mounting bracket that I will design later. The two tiny holes above and below the five button openings should be threaded for M2 if you have that small a threading tool. I do not, so I drilled them out with a 2mm bit and used M2 screws and nuts to fit the button panel. Thread all other holes for M3.

Mount the button panel on the right with two M2 screws. Plug it into the main board.

Now we come to the touch screen controller. Cut off the isolation on two sides of the fat magnet around the touch screen USB cable. Plug the display into the touch screen controller, it's the small flat cable coming out of the screen. Now mount the touch screen controller with two M3 screws. Thread the USB cable out of the small U-channel in the bottom of the case. I have fastened a cable tie around the USB cable which keeps it in place, so it does not damage anything if you pull on it too hard. Thread the main display cable (the wide flat-band coming out of the display) underneath the touch screen controller.

Now things get a bit fiddly. Plug the display cable into the main board. It's the wide flat-band cable. Since it is threaded underneath the touch screen controller, this is not so easy. I ended up propping the display up in a 90 degree angle. You can see this in the pictures. Push the round black power connector into its hole. It should be a tight fit, but it's a good idea to superglue it in. Snip off the yellow CVBS connector.

Once you have everything in place, push the display into the top housing (careful not to break the glass, it's a tight fit) and mount the top to the bottom using two M3 socket head screws. The top just pushes in; again, this is a tight fit on my printer. If it is sloppy on yours, just glue it shut with some silicone glue so you can take it apart later. If it is too tight, you may want to experiment with the extrusion multiplier.

One more note: There is about 1mm of clearance between the (metal-backed, conductive) back of the display and the main board. I put some tape over the back of the display and the back of the main board to eliminate the risk of short circuits.

More from Computer

view more

All Apps

3D Print your file with 3D Hubs, the world’s largest online marketplace for 3D printing services.

App Info Launch App

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

3D Print a wide range of designs with Treatstock. Easy to use tools to get the perfect result. The global 3D printing network that connects you with high-quality and fast working print services nea...

App Info Launch App

Thanks !
Leider ist mein Drucker zu kleine das ich das Case im ganzen Drucken kann . Aber ich habe es geteilt und zusammen geklebt

would this fit any 7inch monitor because i already bought one from amazon but jus like this one it doesnt have a an enclosure

That is pretty unlikely. I suppose there might be a standard for the panels but certainly not for the electronics. But without a photo it's really hard to tell.

Might work... but you would have to try.

Jul 1, 2016 - Modified Jul 1, 2016

Comentas que ibas a diseñar un soporte para la case.

Englis
Kites were going to design a support for the case.

This was my first 3D printed object, thank you for this, Bjoern!

  • I had to put support below the corner of the panel near the powerconnector, else the panel would wiggle and move down when touching.
  • I removed the whole insolation around the ferrite core (on the USB cable), else it wouldn't fit.
  • No need for 12v power, after all! On the board is a 12v-->5v regulator, I wired the 5v from the USB connection directly to the board, that works just fine. Here's a german thread containing this amongst other discussion: https://www.mikrocontroller.net/topic/330641

In short: They removed the 8-pin IC between the DVI and VGA connector (in between some coils and caps), I didn't find this necessary though. Then wire +5v and GND to the C116 cap (it's somewhat confusingly written in the thread though).

I first tried to replace the USB cable with a thinner, newer mouse-USB-cable, and power the board from this too. This didn't work for unknown, frustrating reasons. I ended up soldering the 8-pin IC back in and just wiring +5v and GND from the USB-connector (on the touch-board) to the board, using the original USB cable.

it would be highly appreciated, if you would kindly help me to integrate this model with the casing Raspberry Pi 2. I have to set it with the wall. so, I need to integrate the whole model.

Hi friend!

Nice project! I have a 15,4" monitor stolen of my broken laptop. Do you have or know a project to this size?

Thks

Unfortunately, no.

Great Design, Thanks for sharing. An additional Design including a Raspberry pi mount would be so great.

Great job here. Thanks for sharing, I will use this in my robot.

This is my /etc/X11/xorg.conf for ODROID U2 for 180deg screen and touch rotation. Note that it does not use the Mali driver since that does not support rotation right now, so you lose a bit of speed and OpenGL ES support.
Section "Device"
Identifier "Fbdev"
Driver "fbdev"
Option "fbdev" "/dev/fb1"
Option "Rotate" "UD"
Option "DRI2" "true"
Option "DRI2_PAGE_FLIP" "true"
Option "DRI2_WAIT_VSYNC" "true"
Option "UMP_CACHED" "true"
Option "UMP_LOCK" "false"
Option "G2D_DEVICE" "/dev/video3"
Option "G2D_ENABLE" "false"
Option "DPMS" "false"
EndSection
Section "Screen"
Identifier "Default Screen"
Device "Fbdev"
DefaultDepth 24
EndSection
Section "DRI"
Mode 0666
EndSection
Section "InputClass"
Identifier "Axis Inversion"
MatchProduct "eGalax Inc. Touch"
Option "InvertX" "on"
Option "InvertY" "on"
EndSection

Hi,
Very nice work on your model!!
I was wondering if your xorg.conf can be used in the Odroid U3 as well?
Also did you adapt your modeline according to the display resolution and if yes, do you mind to share it?

Yes, it works on the U3 as well. They are absolutely identical in all respects that I could find save for the board layout. I do not use a specific modeline, that is the exact xorg.conf up there. Why, is it giving you trouble?

The screen resolution 1024x600 isn't available as default and using the touchscreen is almost impossible because the corners are not reachable. Can turn off Lubuntu, it's too far in the corner, I need to use a mouse.

Hmm. I have it running as a router pendant, and have no such problem. Right now I'm on a business trip but will double-check when I'm back (around the end of the week).

Top