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StormCrow13

Screw Top D20 Dice Box V2

by StormCrow13 Jul 6, 2018
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thanks for this! i'm printing a PETG version at 1,000% and i'll probaby make another at 1,500-2000% later. Any plans to make a d4/6/8/10/12? lol

I’ve thought about making a d4/6/8/10/12, I probably won’t though. How big of a printer do you have?

CR10S - 300x300x400

Threads don't work at all. Sized up to 700%. Printed absolutely beautifully but the threads are horribly designed. I've been sanding and scraping for an hour without any improvement. "Lightly tapping it with a hammer" as suggested has led to the lid cracking after hundreds of taps. Very frustrating considering it took 26 hours to print. Save yourself a headache and find a version that's designed around magnets instead,

This made me realize I hadn't precisely explained how I got the tight threads to work. It wasn't just tapping with a hammer it was opening and closing as far as it would go until it opened and closed smoothly and using the hammer when it got stuck to open it. Threads are hard and any looser fitting the lid slides all over the place after a short while.

Which face should I put on the bed? in the position where the model is the finish seems to get better, but need to use support. What is the best position to print this model?

Faces 1 and 20 down, I don't use supports

Lots of waste plastic in these models. In the following files, I scaled the model up 7 x and also thinned the walls to reasonable amounts about 2.5 mm. Prints well, fast, and with a lot less waste.

If you don't mind me asking. What's your print time on this thing, and what quality setting did you go for?

I am hoping this is a noob mistake but, the print file for this.....it seems like it's setup to print point down. Am I wrong? How do I fix it because there is no way my printer will do this point first.

Do you use a program like Cura or Slic3r to generate gcode for your printer or does your printer just accept stl files and slice them for you. If your printer does the slicing I will need to upload rotated and scaled models otherwise your slicer program should have rotation and scaling functions.

this box is AWESOME! a few settings i used were walls set to 1.5mm and at 900% the line up point is the 2,4,6.

thanks for a great design!

Comments deleted.

When printing, what orientation are you printing and are you using supports?

1 and 20 faces down and no supports. The numbers on downward facing sides droop a little so minimal supports could be useful.

Thanks, I'm going to give a start with a 300% scale print before I try the 700%

Just as a reminder the threads will not work at 300% scale

I'd also like to add that the 16 isn't showing up right in my slicer. I can't get anything to repair it: Netfabb(thick install or web), Meshmixer, Slic3r prusa editions built-in repair. I even scaled the model up, exported it and tried to repair at 700% scale, it seems there's just not enough data in that area of the model to do a proper repair.

I haven’t had a chance to check the model but I got to one of my prints and the 1 on the 16 isn’t there so I will fix it when I have time.

Sounds good my dude, thanks! Looking forward to printing a couple of these for my D&D gear.

Exactly... if you would kindly, could you check your model and see if the 1 in the 16 is a solid not yet subtracted... because the file I downloaded (great model, btw, thx) and printed didn't de-boss that pesky 1...

Hopefully, it's just a problem on my end...

I’ll have to check when I get home but I don’t remember that. Try redownloading or if the program you slice the model with has a repair model function try that.

well, I wanted to make sure before I commented, and so I pulled the stl into Rhino to check, and it 'appears' the 1 in the 16 is still there...

But check when you get home, and I thank you for your time and attention to this... and look forward to hearing your results.

I haven’t had a chance to check the model but I got to one of my prints and the 1 on the 16 isn’t there so I will fix it when I have time.

eep... see above...

Check my response to that comment. The comment threads have gotten disorganized

the thread is not working properly at my printed die, any advices? :) i am a mechanical engineer, maybe i can help you design a better thread? Could u give me the designfiles? :)

did you scale it up at least 600% of original size? I had to force mine with a hammer a couple of times before it started opening and closing smoothly.

I printed this at 700% and it printed pretty well (a couple of the numbers have some small artifacts - nothing major) but the threading just doesn't align well at all. Forcing it seems likely to break it, and if I have to use that much force, it's just not good design. Overall it's a pretty nice box (or would be)...but the threading needs some work.

I assume the artifacts are on the top of letters that are on downward facing faces while printing. Printed screw tops rely mainly on the tuning of the printer so I designed for mine and some of my older ones that originally required hard smacks to close are now so loose they open too easily so I'm not willing to edit the model in that direction. I just made the threads sturdier than those versions.

true about the artifacts - wasn't complaining about that, just an observation. I still think the threading is an issue - I have the printer tuned well. I've printed other threaded objects that work well without having anything close to the issues I'm having with this. I'll likely just end up grinding it off and using magnets. Overall a nice box though

This loads up for me as being 19 mm, what size did you intend it?

I usually scale up to 600% to 900%