ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD
Now available painted and unpainted in my Etsy store!
Years ago I made a polymer clay sculpture of the Hypnotoad and some folks were interested in getting copies. Now, thanks to 3D scanning and printing, I'm really happy to be able to make that happen!
The model is in three parts...
The Head: I split the model at the collar so that the head could print nicely without the need for supports under the lip. The extra benefit of splitting it here is that the neck is articulated! It's not a full-blown action figure, but you can add a little attitude and personality to the pose.
The Body: After I scanned the sculpture, I added a ton of texture and details I didn't have the skill or patience to when working with clay. I modified any problematic areas enough so that no supports are needed. There are a couple areas, namely the shins, where the overhang angle is extreme enough that you'll likely get some stair-steppiness. Luckily these places are facing the ground and not very conspicuous. Printing slowly and with the highest resolution helps maintain the detail in these areas.
- The Neck Post: As provided here, the post is 100% of the size of the holes in the body and head and is likely not to work when printed. Scale it down in the slicer just a touch so it's a snug fit. 99% has worked for me, tough enough to slide in and doesn't easily pop out, but still allows the head to rotate. You can print a couple as needed to test your printer tolerances. Or sand it a little, or wrap it in some tape..it doesn't need to be a hair-pulling, precision process.
OPTIONAL: The other parts are for making a collar with tags as shown on the show. On the collar of the file Hypnotoad_Head_forTags.stl are two holes the diameter and distance apart to accommodate an average paper clip. Simply snip off a u-shape from the end of the paper clip and bend/squeeze it a bit to get it to where it can slide into place. You can either make tags out of card stock or thin plastic, or print the two tag files included here.
I think everyone can agree that the worst part of trying to produce a nice looking item via 3D printing is the tedious post-processing necessary to get a finished look. So I tried to make that part as painless as possible during the modelling stage. I exaggerated the texture so that the model can withstand several, fairly generous layers of filler primer without the details being covered up and lost. Sanding is kept to a minimum and really only needed on the largest, smoothest sections(like the nose and the larger back bumps) or anywhere where your printer might have dragged or left some blobs.
My process for the toad pictured here was...
- Four or five coats of Rustoleum Filler Primer, sanding the areas described above between each coat
- A coat of Rustoleum Triple Thick Glaze to further act as a filler
- A coat of Filler Primer to check how well the Triple Thick Glaze had covered, sanding
- A final coat of Primer, no sanding, for a smooth consistent surface for the paints
It was really not that bad. The skin texture helps to hide the layer lines and I think my tactic of exaggerating the model in the first place did indeed make things easier.
As for the final paints, they are all cheap, ~$1 acrylics like you find by the hundreds at Wal-Mart or Hobby Lobby, making my own color mixes and washes. After painting, I sprayed a few coats of satin for protection and then several Testors Lusterless clear coats to get the matte finish. The eyes were clear coated by hand, probably fifteen coats, with Testors Gloss.