THERE IS AN UPDATED VERSION OF THIS MOUNT! Follow this link...
This is a mount and fan shroud made to fit the Flexion Extruder with an E3D V6 Retrofit Hot-end using a slim 17HS4023 extruder stepper motor mounted with a direct drive setup to a Tronxy X5S printer using the original hardware, original 40mm blower part cooling fan for the Tronxy X5S, and the snap-on 30mm heatsink fan that comes with the E3D V6 Hot-end. This mount will allow you to utilize the existing gantry system belt attachments designed on the newer version of the Tronxy X5S where the belts are running parallel (unlike older versions of the Tronxy X5S where the belts were not parallel causing binding issues with the gantry system). So far i've printed over 30 hours non-stop successfully with TPU filament. See below for my comments on printing with ABS...
Disassemble your E3D V6 hot-end completely (even removing the heater and thermistor wires from the heat block)
Assemble the Flexion Extruder onto the stepper motor and align the hob bolt on the extruder.
Screw the limit switch onto the back side of the printed mount fan shroud with the wires pointing up using original smalls screws.
Bolt the printed mount onto the gantry system of the Tronxy X5S using original hardware.
Install the E3D heatsink onto the stepper motor using the bracket that comes with the Flexion E3D V6 Retrofit kit with the heat break and hot-end unattached.
Thread the nozzle, heat block, and heat break together. Do not assemble them onto the heat sink yet.
Stick the heat sink down through the hole in the printed mounting bracket at an angle in order to clear the tip of the fan shroud, and thread the heat break, heat block, nozzle combo onto the heatsink.
Using original hardware that came with the Tronxy X5S, bolt the Extruder to the printed mounting bracket using M3 screws in the front.
Snap the 30mm fan that comes with the E3D V6 hot-end onto the heat sink.
Using M3 screws and nuts (should be left over from Tronxy X5S assembly if you kept the extra original hardware) bolt the extruder assembly down to the printed mount through the "top holes" on either side of the heat sink.
Insert the original Tronxy X5S blower fan into the fan shroud to the left of the heat sink and screw it in using the tops holes and the extra small screws from the original Tronxy hardware. (same as the type used for the limit switches)
Insert the heater and thermistor wires back into the heat block and tighten them down.
Warm the hot-end up to 235 - 250 C and perform a heated tightening on all parts of the hot-end assembly.
- DON'T FORGET TO RE-LEVEL YOUR PRINT BED! This one is easy to forget. It is likely that this assembly will place your nozzle at a different height than your previous setup and you may end up digging the nozzle into the build plate and causing damage. As you can see in the photos, I am guilty of this... several times... my build plate surface has seen better days.
Enjoy! I know this is a fairly basic mount and this is my first revision. Let me know if there are improvements that could be made!
Note: This mount is designed to work with the 17HS4023 Slim Stepper Motor and will NOT work with full depth stepper motors. I chose a slim stepper motor for this direct drive system to reduce the amount of force placed on the printer during jerking motions made by the print head. So far I have had no problems with this motor skipping steps or under extruding. Keep in mind that this stepper motor wiring differs from the wiring of the stepper motors that come stock on the Tronxy X5S printer. The "controller board end" of the stepper motor wires are the same, but the "motor end" of the stepper motor wires need to be wired different in the following order reading from left to right while snapped into the stepper motor with the drive gear of the motor facing toward you and the connector pointing up connecting into the "bottom" of the stepper motor(pictures above illustrate this orientation)
Original Tronxy X5S Stepper Motors:
17HS4023 Slim Stepper Motor:
I was able to use the tiny flat head screwdriver that came with my Tronxy X5S to pry up on the white plastic pieces on the bottom side of the connector to remove the wires from the connector, allowing me to snap them back in accordingly.
Also, you will have to reverse the E0 stepper motor direction, and I used 102 steps/mm in the Marlin firmware settings for this Stepper Motor/Extruder combo and so far it works beautifully! I came up with this number using the following formula...
(Steps Per Revolution) x (Micro Steps) x (Gear Ratio) / (Hob Bolt Diameter) x (Pi)
(usually found in manufacturer specs) (there is no gear) (measured this with micrometer)
(200) x (16) x (1) / (10) x (3.142)
(3200) / (31.42) = 101.8 which is roughly 102 steps per mm
A great tutorial for this can be found at this link...
UPDATE: As stated above, 102 steps/mm worked great printing with TPU flexible filament. After switching to using ABS filament, I noticed some major over extrusion. After manually recalibrating my extruder, I came up with 90 steps/mm. For anyone who does not already know how to do this, there is a great instructional video by Matter Hackers in the link below...
Once you upgrade your Marlin firmware to 1.1.8 you can change this in the options directly on the Tronxy Display under "control" then under "motion" in your settings.
Here is a link to THE BEST TUTORIAL I HAVE FOUND TO DATE on how to flash firmware onto the Tronxy X5S WITHOUT NEEDING AN ARDUINO UNO. Contrary to popular belief (at least with the new version of the Tronxy X5S) you only need a computer and the USB cable that came with the TRONXY X5S printer.