Anime style 1/3 BJD 55cm Doll

by Solomon262 Jul 9, 2018
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Welp, all that it is left is to do is upscale it 3x and grab a drill :D

I know this day would come.

what size are the biggest part? kind of important to know so we know what size printer we need.

Is there any way to move the eye ball? Or at least the eyelid such that the eye could look at other direction and eyelids could be closed or half closed? That would give the doll more expression, I think.

Wonderful wonderful model, by the way. I will print one up soon. Thanks for sharing.

Eyeballs are moveable when you opened up her head lol. I did have some thought on design an external eyeball control system, but it is quite hard to make and even harder to make them looks good. A more realistic option would be to design an internal eyeball socket which can hold the eyes in place while you try to move them. I will do some design test when I got some more time, but this won't happen until the end of this year.

Eyelid would be even harder. Since if you want to make them looks good, it will involve thin structures which would be almost impossible to print. A more stylized character might be a better test ground than this one? Unless you are talking about the eyelid systems which has been used by some baby dolls: a half sink coloured hinged eyeball with a tumbler structure. In this case, it won't be hard to make, as long as you can find the right size eyeballs and then glue them on the doll. But I think they are looks rather awful :p

Thanks for your thoughts. A socket which holds the eye balls and then a way to access the eye balls is an excellent idea. I agree eyelids could be impossible, perhaps two or three different facial expressions then? For example melancholy, or meditative? Then I can just swap out the whole head?

Again great design and I look forward to any updates. Thanks.

I just finished the first print and so far it's coming out great even before sanding. For those who are curious:

  • SLA print in "Flesh" resin.
  • Reduced to 1/4 scale.
  • 0.004 layer height.

hello, if i'm buying clothes for the doll scaled down 50%, can I just use 1/6 doll clothes? or are the measurements different?

Sorry for the late reply. I have never tried to print her in such scale (my printers are striking again and I have got no time to fix them), so I can't answer yes or no.

However, if the clothes are made by elastic materials, I believe she would be fine with them. Parts which might require extra concern would be her butt since I did scale them up to fit the hip joints, so tight fit jeans or mini skirts may not works for her :p

Hello for the head is the wig size 8-9 or 9-10 thank you!.

9-10. I have tried on two 9-10 wigs and they fit just right.


I wish to make this doll for myself (scaled down 50%, of course) as a prototype for something I'm in the process of researching myself for stop-motion animations I intend to create in the future.

It is a most splendid doll, and I congratulate you on a job well done. However, I require assistance.

I've gone through the process of scaling the doll down in Cura and exported it to the required SD card. That all went well after a few hiccups. But when I went to print it out, the plastic refused to stick to the surface it was being printed on, and I had to stop printing after 30 minutes due to it just becoming a big mess. I've tried to identify a few problems. Here they are:

-I feel I may have been using either poor quality, or the wrong kind of filament,

-I did attempt to print several parts at once,

-I attempted to print the parts without first adding a structure for them to be clipped off of

Speaking of the filament, I've included the link to the website of the company that made both my printer and filaments for you to assess. What am I doing wrong? If you can help in any way, I'd be eternally grateful.

Mind you, this is actually my first foray into ball-jointed dolls as a whole, and 3D Printing too, as a matter of fact, so forgive me for my strong lack of knowledge on the subject.

All in all, great doll. If I'm able to get mine off the ground, I will be more than happy to show you the result.


P.S. Here is the link: https://cocoonproducts.com.au/product-category/3dfilament/

It is great to hear that you have enjoyed my design and best wish for your animation project.

For your problem, it sounds like you are using ABS filament without a heating chamber. In this case, PLA is the way to go. And as I have recommended in the design description, please add brims to all prats. Finally, print everything in one go is a horrible idea, unless you have got some industrial standard monster machines, please don't even think about it.

As I have mentioned in the descriptions, it is a big project and can be a challenge. In a short word, this is not a good project for a beginner. This project was not designed to be printed in half size either since many parts are only having very limited adhesion surface to printer bed. The original size is already challenging enough for many printers and I can imagine it could only be even more challenging when you try to print it smaller.

If you are new to 3D print, I would highly recommend you to start from the 3Dbenchy boat to learn the basics and fine tune your machine. There are tonnes of tutorials online which covers much essential knowledge to 3D print, and they can save a great number of times for you to resolve problems. 3D printing is a process of self-direct problem solving, welcome to the world of infinite possibility and be prepared to learn from your mistakes.

Hi there! This doll was a big project for me and it turned out really well! I printed it at a scale so that itll fit into Azone PureNeemo M clothes. I also edited a few things about the doll, which I'll upload in a remix (after my account breaks the new accounts cant upload stuff for 24 hours rule thing). Thanks for a great project file! Here she is.

Looks great! nice print :D

sized most of the body down to about 50%, ram horns, smaller eyes, nostrils, lip adjustments, rounder chin, smaller bust, smaller hands and feet. Did i get it all? also share your print to the makes! It'll be nice to see yours together with all the different ones.

It's actually more around 45% on average! Some parts are really varied, which is why I'm planning on uploading this all as a remix ASAP ^^ I'll have an explanation on scaling I did once it's uploaded tomorrow!

What size is the bust and what dolI make/size is most comparable? I’m looking to buying some clothes for mine :) Thanks, great print!!

She is a 1/3 scale doll. Will fit most DD3 and DDS M bust outfits.

hi excellent work , i printed this doll for my mother its a gift for christmas :3 can you link me the S hook you used for this doll please :) ?

Sorry, all S-hooks I have used were made by my self. I used a 3mm steel wire and warped them by pliers.

Nice idea I'll do the same thank :)

how do you secure the eyes?


I use blu-tack. Standard BJD eye clay might do a better job on PLA surface.

Hi Solomon, the 1/3 looks great, now I want to print a 1/6size, how many % should I reduce it to?
Thank you.

reduced to 55%?

50% maybe? I don't collect 1/6 scale so not very sure.

There are few things need to be considered when printing on such small scale. First would be the printability, small parts like the fingers can become a nightmare, So try with hands first.
Second would be accessories, such as eyeballs and wig. What are available on market? For example if you can find 11mm eyeballs, then 50% would be the scale to go since the original scale supports 22mm.
Thirdly would be the durability, parts like the knee could be venerable. So do some test print with the leg and see if some modifications will be required.

I have both 1/4 and 1/6 hands prints out, 0.1mm, 30% infill, 30mms. I am going to print the 1/6 knee and thighs now. lets see what happen.

The Knees come out good at 55% scale. The project will continue.

Looks good, how about calf? The knee cup there is much thinner.

I haven't printed the calf yet, will do next Monday. This is what I have so far, the parts look good and I am already happy with them.
Due to low lighting, the actual parts look better.

Everything comes out good ar 55%, except the hand fingers. I will lower the print speed to 20mm/s today, hopefully, it will be ok. It still can't stand up, too flexible. I will just let it sit down instead.

Hi everyone, I have this beauty printed out and she looks great! New to BJD, can someone shows me how to string her? I did strung her, but I must done something wrong, she couldn't stand up, the thighs are moving too freely. If i tight the strings too tight, her legs and knees bend backward. The elastic cord I used is 1/8", or maybe a 3/16", not sure. Help, please. Thank you.

show off your print by adding it to the "Makes" section! It looks like you printed at a very nice quality level

How about try to add some tissue papers in between joints? The free moving joint would usually due to insufficient friction. If this trick can fix the problem, then you can change tissues to silicon glue or something else which aren't obvious to see. The post-print part has suggested some tricks which might be useful.

Here is a tutorial I have found online about how to string things up: http://www.vivcore.com/dolly_daydream/bjd_stringing_tutorial.html

btw, nice printout, much better than my initial try :D

Thank you very much!

hi all, is 1KG of filaments enough for this project? DO i need another roll?
Thank you.

No, unless if your printer had some very rough time :p
Ideally, 1kg would be more than enough, if everything works fine you can even print 1.5 dolls with a full roll.
The idea to have 1kg ready is for backup. Because for a common scenario, you would very likely encounter at least 1 or 2 problematic prints. Due to the nature of PLA, a different roll maybe performance differently and affects outcomes, even if they were from the same company. Which means more trouble.
So one roll would be enough. BUT, only use the good one. Crappy filament won't lead you to anywhere.

So far I have the hand, feet, and head printed. The head/face printed out and looks really Great! It is my first BJD, and where do you (everyone) buy your 1/3 BJD accessories, like clothes, wigs shoes? Thank you.

I got mine from Aliexpress since there aren't many local shops sells such accessories in New Zealand (and they are expensive). eBay also got some good collections if you are living in the US.

Great, thank you!

Really liked this model. Took other feet because I wanted shoes for her. But what I have problems with the knees. When I make leg straight the knee falls into the thigh section. Do you have any tips to fix this problem?

This is a rare problem. If all parts have been print and assembled correctly, at least standing up shouldn't be an issue.

Basically, if the doll can't standing up would be either because there aren't enough frictions in between joints, which usually caused by sizing issues. Or, a more complicated issue: the string inside can't keep straight, which means there is a misalignment in between parts. For your case, it might be due to the fact you have used feet from other design which may have a different string arrangement, so when you try to make the doll standing up, the cords inside can't stay straight so they will force the doll the knee down.

A possible fix you may want to try is to slide thine piece of tissue in between joints to increase the friction. If that works then maybe you can change the tissue to something that is less obvious. I have listed some tricks under the post-print process, you may find some information is helpful.

Good luck

Why was the size changed from 60cm to 55cm? Is it just the description or were the files changed?

Description change

I love this, and am pretty sure I'll be printing one, but is there any chance we could get a super full chest like Obitsu had a few years ago? I have a doll in mind but she needs to have a larger set of girls.

I have thought about it before, but too much on the breasts would make life much harder to find clothes which can be fit. Before more people screaming in the sky (Ahhhhh~~), I think what this lady has is big enough ( Kirin J Callinan, 2017)

Yeah, but I'm a seamstress by trade ;) she'd have plenty of clothes that'd fit, plus, Dolly Dolly magazine back in the day had plenty of patterns for the superfull Obitsu style bust, which was around a DDD chest in full scale. So if you decided to do a second bust option, I'm sure it'd be appreciated.

eeeh I was not expecting 500MB+ of download ... but oh well I've got fast internet but still xD

500MB+ would be the combination of the two version lol, but hey, at least you have proved that your internet service is great ;D

can we get a male version please??

When I got some time I may give a go . Now I am really struggling with time :p

this would actually be helpful for drawing.
out of curiosity how tall is a full scale if this is 1/3?

55 x 3 = 165cm, I don't think you want that ;D

Hello. Can I use lower body 16 points with 18 points details. I apologize, maybe I do not express my question clearly. I'm writing with the help of an interpreter.

Thank you. I can print additional parts.

16-points version is almost same as the 18-points version. The only different is the thigh: 18-points version got two parts but the 16-points only got one. All other parts are the same.

Has anyone tried scaling this down? I'd love to try this, but I'm kinda iffy on trying it, since my printer is too small for the file, and I don't know if anything will be messed up if I reduce the size.

Reduce the size down to 73% will convert the doll into 1/4 scale, which is still standard BJD size and means there are accessories and clothes available in market. In this scale she will use 16mm eyes. 73% scale down should make parts fit most printers with max Z height to 150mm

However if it is still too big, then I would recommend to slice the part into half, print as separate parts and glue them together in the end.

My was printed 1/2 original size. The bigest problem was hands. but on second attempt i made it...

This is an awesome doll, well done! I am new to 3D printing but not dolls. I don't have the patience to fully finish a 3D printed doll right now, but I've been following your directions on finishing my own head. Thanks for the tip on using the putty - it's saved me a lot of primer.

I have made my own painted BJDs before, though, and I wanted to give the advice to suede the joints to prevent rubbing and chipping. You can use calfskin suede (ideally), pliver (what I have), or faux suede if you have to. Some people also use self-adhesive moleskin that you can get at a drug store. Here's a tutorial showing that: http://www.dollsmagazine.com/ball-jointed-dolls-for-beginners-sueding-your-doll/
If you are a member of Den of Angels, there's a great tutorial on there showing how to pattern the suede pieces to fit perfectly using tape.

This will do double duty of increasing the friction for better stability/posing, and protecting the painted parts from rubbing against each other. My painted dolls that are sueded this way have had very minimal chipping and it makes the doll feel great to pose. Silicone or hot glue has a stronger/stickier grip but suede will protect your paint.

Wow, thank you for your advice and the tutorial! I will give it a go for the next print out when I go some time. Paint chip has been an awfully annoying issue for my lady.

If you wouldn't mind, can I also share this tip in the post-print process please?

And I am really looking forward to see your printouts :D

Of course, I hope it helps! Chipping paint is the worst. And absolutely go ahead and share, I'm giving the advice because I want to help people avoid some frustration.

And thanks! I'm not sure if I'll be sharing my model(s) here but I've been posting progress on Instagram. https://www.instagram.com/glaceleau/

Thanks :D

Your works are looking great!

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For the leg, the 18 joint design 's thigh can be problematic since the thigh is lacking lock mechanism. That is one of the reason I post up the 16 point design. However if all printed parts are in accurate size, the floppiness should be very limited especially when all parts are align ,aka standing up.
You may also want to try to use some silicon glue to increase the frictions between parts.
For your print out, I think it looks okay, however, I would recommend to print in skin colour material if possible and do some post print process I have mentioned. Also for the half-size print, it might be a problem when dress up, since it is hard to find all accessories such as wig, eyes, cloth etc. I would recommend to either pint in full scale or 1/4 scale (73%).
Definitely have a read with the post print process I have posted, it has covered everything I have done for my lady.
Hopefully I have provide some useful answers. Good luck with that.

very cool thanks for sharing! ... if i want to print a Mini Super Dollfie size ~40cm i should scale it by 72% right?

I think so. MDD is 1/4 scale. You may want to try with the head first, I think 73% might works better with 16mm eyes.

Good luck with it :D

thanks for the fast reply!

Has anyone tried this with a DLP resin printer? Curious how many adjustments need to be made for hollowing, and if the hollowing might affect the articulation.

What size eyes have you been using for her? I have her halfway printed and will post pics later :)

22mm, it has been mentioned under summary, you can also find some other hints under summary and post print information.

Looking forward to see your work!

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I used a S hook, and technically, any other kind of hook would be fine for this duty. As long as the hook is bigger than the hole to neck and can be fit within the head, it will then hold the cord in the right place. I have attached a draft image about how I linked my doll, hopefully this would help. I am looking forward to see your work, good luck :D