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agarajag

RaspberryPi3 Mk3 Case

by agarajag Jul 14, 2018
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Can you update the file so it will fit the Raspberry Pi4?

I'm waiting for my MK3s atm and checking the manuals, I don't see where this is mounted. It's on the top/left side obviously, but where is it screwed into?

It is screw to the printer frame with a couple of spare crews (M3x12 if I remember correctly)

Yes, but are the holes already there or do I need to drill them? My MK3S is coming this monday, can't check it.

It fits with two existing and unused holes in the frame.

I've tried printing the top 3 times and it keeps failing at the exact same spot. Do you print it flat or on its side?

You should print it is flat, as is shown in this picture https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/8e/9a/95/41/15/c3bb4e27ecdfaf9553234199bac03817_preview_featured.jpg

If you want to print only the top rotate it 90 degrees or use Slic3r PE to place the top face of the case on the bed.

I figured as much. And that's precisely what I did, and it stopped extrudng at the same spot each time. Thoughts?

Check your printer calibration. It seems to me that one side is to low and the opposite is to hight. With isopropyl alcohol.

https://manual.prusa3d.com/Guide/9.+Preflight+check/514?lang=en

https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

I've done nylock calibration set to 0.05mm differential, and I had just cleaned it with acetone. The bed is as even as I can get it.

I've been using Slic3r PE to slice this. I'll try another slicer or two. This is the second variation of this type of Pi lid that won't finish printing. I have been able to get the bottom to print just fine.

Did you try to print anything else?
Different filament?
It seems to me that could be a problem with the calibration or the nozzel but try first with a different filament. Is it PLA? which temperature are you using?

So this one was entirely on me. When I did the nylock mesh bed leveling, I did it when the bed was cold. After heating the bed and doing the adjustments again, I was able to successfully print it. I probably over experimented and printed the first layer at 220 C and other layers at 215 C, and also did it with zero retraction, and thus encountered stringing, so I'm going to print a couple retraction cubes and try and get that dialed in.

Great Case, thanks

Note: Need M3 x 16 screws for case, M3 x 12 for mount

Are the screws just tapping into the plastic?

They are screwed into the plastic.

Works really well, thank you.