ATTENTION! This is not a real gun! It cannot shoot and it was never meant to do so! There is no firing pin and the space where it would theoretically be is needed for my internal mechanics anyway.... Call it what you want, to me it's a harmless toy, a show piece, a prop, a cosplay item or whatever. But keep in mind, it may look real to people who are not aware of that. Therefor it's obviously a bad idea to carry this thing in public. However, just the fact that I feel like I have to tell you that, is already pretty sad...
Now that we discussed that:
Check below for more information, requirements, issues you may encounter and how to fix the more common ones, and more!
Hi there! Ever wanted a Prop Revolver, that can do more than just look nice? I got you covered! I present to you, what is likely one of the first mechanically working Prop Revolvers here on thingiverse.
Go here to see it in Operation: https://i.imgur.com/DBUVUkF.gifv
(6MB gif, may take a while)
Go here for full-size, high-res assembly drawing: https://i.imgur.com/lCLmWCn.jpg
- Fully printable without MultiMaterial, Supports, Rafts or whatever!
- Single Action: pulling the Hammer will turn the Cylinder to the next round. Cylinder and Hammer lock into position. Pulling the trigger releases the hammer, internals are reset for next operation.
- Cylinder can be flipped out on the side to exchange the rounds
- Ergonomic grip
- Rifled barrel, though you can hardly see it (I put my phone in the space left free for the cylinder to take that shot)
- A2 size assembly drawing (check out the parts list on that one for further information)
- 1 M5x50 screw
- 1 M5x30 screw
- 11 screws meant for plastic/wood with a length of at least 20mm and 4mm in diameter, 3mm core diameter. Cut them to shorter screws according to the parts-list on the assembly drawing. Leave the tip flat after cutting, but screw an unmodified screw into every hole before, the screws will not be able to cut the thread themselves anymore afterwards.
- 1 screw meant for plastic/wood with a length of at least 8mm and 3mm in diameter, 2mm core diameter. Also mentioned in parts-list.
- at least approximately 73m of filament
- 1 spring as it is mentioned in the parts list. You will have to find a pen with a suitable spring, but it should be pretty common.
- M5 thread cutters for the Cylinder and the Body. Just screwing the M5s in without cutting a thread may work, but I have not tried it and would not recommend it.
- ABS filament: I heavily recommend you to use ABS for the Cylinder-Stopper, as PLA is not as flexible and will change shape under load pretty quickly. Also recommended for Trigger and Hammer, likely works with PLA too, but I have not tested.
Further Information and tips
It took me around 4 weeks to design this Revolver from scratch until the object was printed and worked as intended. I googled the dimensions of a 44.Magnum cartridge and built everything around it, while the design is entirely fictional. The result is extremely satisfying!
The grip feels pretty ergonomic in my large hand. The weight distribution makes it easy to flip it in your hand.
Not all STL files are oriented correctly to be able to print them without supports. Especially for Revolver_Kimme (rear ironsights) use the large angled surface as the base (angle is 30°) for the best results.
Afterwork to do:
The Hammer-Rotator may need a little tweaking at the nose that turns the gear. Use a lighter or some other heat source to bend the Cylinder-Stopper and the leaf spring of the Flip-Switch until they work best for you (Though latest version of Cylinder-Stopper should work right out of the box). I advise you to test the operation multiple times before screwing it together. If you think that the barrel will not stay in place tightly during the print, use the version with the extended side flaps. Grinding them down to ~1mm can be tedious and you have to be careful not to damage the surface of the barrel, but it can greatly enhance quality of upper layers. The part that keeps the Flip-Switch tight to the Body-Top will also need some afterwork until it can move smoothly. For better adhesion I have added a bigger first layer to the gear of the Hammer, as a brim does not work properly in these tight spaces. I have printed ALL parts with a brim. Especially the Body is suspect to warping due to many overhangs.
- Hammer stops half way: adjust nose of Hammer-Rotator until it can slip over the teeth of the Cylinder-Rotator
- Cylinder spins over the notch, resulting in misalignment with the barrel: Either you are pulling the Hammer too fast, or the Cylinder-Stopper is not applying enough force. If you have cut too much away, print again. Otherwise, try adjusting the bend with a heatsource.
- Cylinder spins not well during Hammer pull: Try cutting off a little bit of the Cylinder-Stopper.
- Cylinder spins not far enough to lock into a notch: Your Hammer-Rotator may be worn off. Check if there is material missing of the nose. Pulling the Hammer a little faster should work, but a fresh print is the best solution.
- Cylinder does not fully move back into the Revolver when it is flipped in after reloading: Caused by unfortunate alignment of the Cylinder-Rotator, causing one of the gear teeth to crash with the nose of the Hammer-Rotator. Should not cause any damage, though. Just flip it back out and in again. If the Cylinder spins while it is flipped back in, chances of success are greatly improved.
- Pulling the Hammer pushes the Flip-Switch back, eventually releasing the Cylinder to the side: May happen rarely. Reason unknown. Probably linked with the force applied by the Cylinder-Stopper being too high...
- Loose Cylinder-Rotator: Apply multiple layers of tape to make less room for movement. You can use glue, too, but if something breaks you will have to print the entire Cylinder again.
- Flip Switch stays in position of unlocked cylinder: On the Flip Switch there is a little nose, that makes sure it stays close to the surface of the Body Top, as the screw alone does not provide enough stiffness. However, it is very likely that this nose comes out in oversize. Carefully cut or grind it until it moves without much resistance when screwed gently to the Body Top. You may also use heat on the little leaf spring to bend it and generate more tension, increasing the torque that will reset the Flip Switch to its original position on its own after operation. Remember, do not screw the Flip Switch too tight, there should be space for movement.
- one cartridge does not come out of the cylinder: If one of the six shots is aligned with the press-spot of the Cylinder-Flip-Switch, the round will come out half way and get stuck at the flip switch. Shaking the revolver a little will fix this. A smaller Flip-Switch could fix this, but the finger rest may feel uncomfortable. A longer Cylinder-Lever could fix it too, but it will add to the overall size of the Revolver. Therefor I will not take any actions here.
I really hope you like this thing as much as I do!
As always, feel free to comment and please share if you made one!
This was a LOT of work, so do not use or publish this thing anywhere without mentioning me as creator.
I am looking forward to see your makes!
~ Steiner 3D