Rektify Mk.2

by Flygonial Jul 29, 2018
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Having problems opening the sling attachment file, and is there a stock attachment? maybe I simple overlooked?

Having followed along by downloading, opening, and checking the files myself, I've had no issues myself. I can still preview them and drop the .stl files into a slicer. If all you want to know from the preview is what the sling and stock attachment point look like, then yes, there is a N-Strike compatible mount. Otherwise, I don't know how I'd help you here if I can't see an issue on my side.

Either way, I'm sorry that you've been, at best, confused here.

Found screws for the pusher motor.
Team Associated part number 25189
Button head M3 X 22 mm.

Ahh, I see. That would probably work out a whole lot better than me trying to play around with 25mm long screws with a bunch of washers. Do you think this would be worth a mention in the description, as are these screws that most people could access?

That said, maybe I would be better off designing a friction fit mount for the gearbox. Might actually be more structurally sound even.

Actually any M3 X 22mm would work. I actually added a small washer under screw head as it still protuded past the other side interfering with the spinner. Other option would be to file off a half a millimeter off total length of screw. Again thanks for sharing this with the community. - James Austin, TX

Why yes I am. Just wasn't sure if which one you would answer on. Thanks again for your help and time and support. Any chance you are going to release the files for a handle and wire cover for the Katana version?

"Any chance you are going to release the files for a handle and wire cover for the Katana version?"

They are already included, as far as I can see. The katana carry handle has been renamed to just 'wire run' as it's obviously too small at that point to be any sort of handle, and all the half-length specific parts are in one folder.

Wondering where is the best place to wire in the power switch? Any ideas as I don't want to go directly through the battery. I was thinking the flywheel power cable?

Would you happen to be the same commenter that posted on the assembly guide video? In that case, the answer is the same: It's actually fine to put it directly at the main power lead from the battery. The primary way switches get worn down in our applications is by opening and closing circuits, and the power switch won't be opening or closing any of them unless you very intentionally mash both triggers and then turn the blaster on.

Minimum 120x120x120mm build volume, being a Monoprice Select Mini. This is also in the description, though it is admittedly a lot to read.

Thanks. I tried to find the size in the description but i must have missed it.


I Had some Printed part of Rektify MK2, but still confuse where i put CC Follower on Pusher Group ..

Thanks For Help


It's on the cycle control/limit/retraction switch.

great.. thanks..

Could you show also for grip switch, i still can fit on my project.
And also diagram for cabling from battery into all component.

Thanks so much for your help.

Does anyone know reference for Shoulder rest STL ? Thanks

Apologies for being a little late, and also not knowing what you happen to be referring to. There isn't a file named exactly that here - if I had to assume I'd guess it would have something to do with the stock mount?

Never Mind, thanks for answer.
I think am not focus to read all detail instruction.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

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Hy-Con Conversion-- do you have the source files for this conversion?
Thanks so much.

They should just be on the share link (https://a360.co/2uZc2Qo). You'll need to sift through them in the entirety of the source file yourself, but I just found the file a bit large to be uploading here.

i am looking for the brushless conversion part?
You have it listed in thingverse under Hy-con conversion.
I just see the Mk2 files under the link you just sent me.
Thanks Again for your great work.

That's because they're not toggled as visible. Download the F3D (Fusion 360 Archive) file through that link, open it in Fusion. Then go to the 'Flywheel Cage' component, drop down the menu, everything Hy-Con is under it (except for the ESC covers, which are under the 'Carry Handle' component and its bodies).

What type of darts does this fire. In the picture it looks like a larger mega dart is in the barrel of the gun but when I printed the the flywheel part if is only big enough for smaller darts?

It fires 'smaller darts', as in .50 inch diameter darts. The mega dart will not fire through the flywheel cage - it's merely meant to represent that you can in fact put a mega dart into the flash hider, and shoot it with the kinetic energy of a dart hitting it from behind. It's a feature that needs more work to become more consistent than a gimmick at the moment.

Sorry for the confusion regardless, it is not primarily intended for mega darts.

Hey Flygonigal!
The Rektify is awesome.
(I think you know that)
Just making sure that I can use your magazine well/release files in the Snapmag mk.2.
Just look under my profile, haven't really posted anything yet.

Yes, you definitely can! The license is public domain, and derivative works are encouraged regardless however you see fit to apply. You could sell them for all I care, I don't mind.

Your design is very impressive. Thank you for making the source available. As a new person to CAD design I have found it to be a great learning tool. Keep up the good work.

that looks awesome! great work!

Hello Flygonial, I saw that your answer was extremely complete and your advice very useful. So I start a table gathering the useful and essential component for the realization of this gun, I encourage all people to modify and improve this file that needs it. He can help anyone who wants to build the blaster. I will order the components in a few days and try to make a tutorial (photos and text or video). It will be a functional but "draft" version of the project at first.
I thank all the people who will complete the table and keep it up to date; ).

Oh isn't that just the spirit of open source. That's cool, just have some nitpicks:

The 'limit switch' section does contain switches suitable for the flywheel and pusher activation triggers, but I don't believe anything linked serves the purpose of a true 'limit switch' for ensuring the pusher always retracts. That switch has to be a submini sized one, similar to the ones here: https://www.blastertech.com.au/Switchplate___Switch_Kit_-_Rapidstrike_CS-18/p2928293_17684749.aspx. I forgot to mention this, at least, so these switches tend to be rated for 5A or 10A.

The flywheel motors linked are definitely not optimally suited to Nerf applications. They might have been useful back before people in the hobby ordered motors with specs specifically for our purposes, but there's no shortage of that now. The sellers I listed originally, for example, offer a variety of motors suited for our use: https://outofdarts.com/collections/motors.

Otherwise, I think it mostly looks good other than the hardware being a little incomplete, but I have a lot of that listed in the description anyways. Good on you for doing this, good luck assembling it, and I'm happy to help.

Hey Flygonial! Thanks for your previous answer. As I am a beginner in electronics, I wanted to know if a battery 7.4V 1500mAh 40C 2S Lipo Battery XT60 Plug is a good choice for this project (https://www.banggood.com/ZOP-Power-7_4V-1500mAh-40C-2S-Lipo-Battery-XT60-Plug-p-1085890.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN) ?
Do you have an idea about the approximate duration of the operating time before recharging?
Great model, thanks in advance ; )

From the point of whether it fits or not, that battery will fit with plenty of room to spare. Assuming everything is rated properly and the battery's capacity or discharge rate is not grossly overstated, it will last for approximately the same amount of shots as its capacity in mAh - 1500~. If you often rev the flywheels unnecessarily (which with any decent motor is any second you are not shooting), this battery life may be less. Regardless, this should easily be enough for a few hours of play, if not several.

But whether it'll be sufficiently powerful will depend on the motors you decide to use, which can be bought from the same vendors I linked to for the flywheels. As can the switches (15A or 21A) and wires (18 or 16 AWG). With a 2S pack, you don't have very many non-low availability or non-obsolete 180 size motors, but you can definitely just use 130s. The Fang Revamps are about the best 2S 130 motors you could get, but running three of them would probably be a little hard on your battery even assuming it has a usable burst rating (they have a combined stall current of 84 amps). You could probably get away with it but it would be suboptimal safety-wise - I'm not exactly inclined to trust that pack's ratings are completely honest. For a more conservative, but more decidedly safe option, I'd recommend three Meishel 2.0 motors. They still get decent performance while running within the constant rating of the pack.

This is all assuming you already have that pack, however. If you can get your packs from other sources, ie: Hobbyking, I'd highly recommend that. You can easily find larger and/or more powerful packs that will fit in the blaster and open up your options even more.

You will need to source some of the hardware yourself - most of it is either a M3 thread for metric or 7/64 in diameter (which includes #4 screws, you'll want most of them to be 10mm long or 13/32nds of an inch - some may need to be shorter or longer respectively). The flywheel cage motor mounts and cycle control switch mounts will need to be M2 screws, 4-5mm for the flywheel cage and 10mm or so for the cycle control switch.

Finally, you'll also have to assemble the wiring loom of the blaster yourself. For a circuit diagram, the info here would be directly applicable to this blaster: https://torukmakto4.blogspot.com/2015/06/tech-rapidstrike-control-circuits-part-1.html

If you want a video guide, Rapidstrike rewires are the closest thing now. The way the wiring runs will not be directly applicable, but it represents where all the connections are made. You will also definitely want a connector (ie: XT60) between the flywheel cage and the rest of the blaster for disassembly, as Rektify is not a clamshell. A connector for the pusher motor is optional but nice.

'Live-center' three-switch (ensures the pusher retracts after every shot): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwbnobOxIY0 - There's another part after this one, the first part of this guide is not applicable.
The simpler two-switch (you will not need a third switch), the guide is also higher production quality: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRspanhxKEM

hello I printed the different part of the model I wanted to know if flywheel was printable or buyable at a good price because I can not find a reference.
Thank you.

If the shaft fit of the flywheel is printed, you will see those wheels last a few hours of use at the most. If you want to print the flywheel itself, your best bet would be this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2922532

You will need to buy some hardware separately and assemble it with some adhesives you may or may not have. They are pretty good wheels, however.

Some examples of reputable flywheel resellers in the US are OutofDarts and Foamblast:


If you live elsewhere in the world, however, the best sellers nearby may be different.

by lukej11