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rayperkins

Knurled Twist Container

by rayperkins Aug 12, 2018
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Way too tight, I gave myself blisters trying to unscrew the parts after they were together and ended up having to buy channel-locks to break them apart again. Next time I guess I'll print the outer part .1% larger or something...

Otherwise it looks cool.

They did not matched in the first time as you said.I warm it up with a hot blower and twisted the parts until the end and leave rest. After few minutes and way more cooler tha parts now are ok. Awesome design!

I tried printing this on my Duplicator i3 plus. It came out and I can't even get it to twist together more than a quarter inch or so. there's just too much resistence.

I'm printing in hatchbox PLA at 215C at .1mm resolution, 20% infill, 70% scale as a test. Any ideas?

Reducing it's size also reduces the tolerance between parts. That will make it a lot tighter and possibly very difficult to get it together.

Beautiful design. Came out perfectly on my i3

Didn't work for me :( Too tight. I couldn't twist it even for an inch

The part is so great that I printed myself a second container. I noticed that you preferred the same colors as I did - a milky green and a strong blue - the colors look great and fit well together.

Is it possible that you can create an STL file for this container in slightly different dimensions ? So I mean the same width, half height or vice versa - with the same thread (so not just printed higher or wider by Cura).

Printed at 200 % scale. 54 hours later.... it is awesome. https://youtu.be/UYQ_ETWouH0

Love the way this looks, now if only I knew how to use fusion to make it shorter and wider.

I can't say how to do that in Fusion, but in Cura you can scale the Z lower and the X/Y larger.

I love this thing! I want one twice the length.

Printed and worked perfectly for me. Thanks for sharing!

This thing is awesome. It printed perfectly for me. The only suggestion I would have is to slightly rotate the knurl pattern so that the seam becomes invisible when closed.

Glad to hear it worked. When you twist the two halves together, there are 6 different positions that they can start in because the threads are based on a hexagon. I believe this is called a 6 start thread.

Depending on which one you start on you may get a slightly different fit. The 6 different starts seem to pair up, so really only 3 different looks when it is closed. Of those 3, 1 is very close to a perfect alignment for the knurl. I think you can sand the bottom edge of the top half to get a perfect alignment.

Oh yeah, I guess you're right. Nice.

i don't think any container made with printing is waterproof. I think it needs a coating of glue or something on the inside for water storage

Very nice print. Works Perfectly.

Can you redesign the bottom part, just the outer wall, so there will be more space inside.

I though of printing another as a pencil case for my little cousin. If you can make it more compact that would be lovely.

With the current design, printed at original size, the inner hole is around 24.6mm and wall thickness 5.5mm. You can get rid of the inner wall, keep the twisted profile as the hole, and increase the thickness of the outer wall.
Also, I was thinking if you can make the bottom part screw only 75% into the top part so you can see the pencils, or whatever you put inside once you open it.

Thanks for the design again, if you add another version of the bottom part i'll definitely print it.

I tired this on my wanhao i3 but no success. it feels like its binding to much so i cant close it. I should not have used my wood filament lol.

Interesting, I had a similar result on my i3+, about halfway there is a bind, that I can get by, but then there is a tighter bind close to complete closure.

I had the same issue with binding on my i3+ also. I found that you just kind of have to keep working it lower and lower until it will close all the way. I still have about half an inch where if I twist it too far then I have to use a wrench to un-bind the two pieces

The bind right before it closes is on purpose, so that it will stay closed. This works great for me, but not everyone is having good results. There was some resistance the first few times I opened/closed it but eventually it started to be very smooth and will open/close with just gravity, unless it is closed all the way, then it binds up and stays closed.

This is pretty neat.

How can you print this in vase mode? I allways end up with voids, and vase mode automaticaly put infill to 0% ...

I don't think you can print in vase mode. Both parts have significant thickness. Also, if you want it to screw in from it's own weight trying to print with no infill may make it too light.

Maybe something is wrong, the screw´s step is not 100% ..... when you plug the TOP in BOTTOM they don´t close untill the end.... only goes 70% / 80% after this they locks..... I made your job in SOLIDWORKS and noticed where was the mistake...... But see, your job is very nice.... congratulation.

I'm with you.. only got about 4/5 of the way shut on both an Ultimaker 3 and Taz 5..

Sorry to hear about the problems. I was concerned the tolerances would be dependent on exact printer settings. I am using a new-ish Prusa i3 Mk3 that was pre-assembled, I pretty much took it out of the box and started printing.

If you open the to Fusion 360 file and change the Twist_Scale_Factor parameter you might be able re-print the bottom half and make it work. Twist_Scale_Factor is set to 0.98, so the inside is 98% the size of the outside. This works great on my machine, but you may need need to lower it a bit. The twist threads on the bottom piece are broken into two pieces.

The upper part of the threads are only scaled in 2 dimensions, making it skinnier but not shorter. The lower portion of the threads do scale in all 3 dimensions, this makes it skinnier but also shorter. Scaling in the 3rd dimensions intentionally causes the threads to bind up right before it fully closes so it will stay closed. Without this it would just unscrew when you try to pick it up.

You can play with the scaling feature to see how it works, the Y Scale will make it shorter/longer, the X and Z make it skinnier. There are only 2 scale operations in the timeline so you can find them and edit the scale factors. If you set it to an exaggerated value like 0.5 or 1.5 you can quickly see how the 3 axis scales affect the part. It is along print so trial and error is pretty annoying.

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Could you send me the drawings or could you ad a keychain hole please? I would like to scale it down and keep my ear plugs in this container.

The Fusion 360 file is included in the files. I look forward to seeing remixes.

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