.2 layers [.4 nozzle]
set walls to 16 for soild strong parts
0 top/bottom layers
supports for the frame. "Touching buildplate" only.
Tolerances are tight on this model and good layer adhesion is a must. Make sure your printer is properly calibrated before attempting this project.
Uncle Jessy shows you how it's done...again:
Glue the top and bottom edge of the bearing into the frame. Wait for glue to dry. Superglue might leave a white haze on the controller if it's not dry.
Snap in the lever for the PS button.
Snap the rack onto the frame.
Put a 90 degree bend on the end of a paper clip [3mm tab]. Snip off 13mm from the bend. If you are using a small nail with a head just trim to length. Put the piece down through the rack and press fit into the pivot. If it's loose in the pivot, use superglue. You want some play in the rack side and tight in the pivot.
Option 2: Snip off 22mm of the paper clip [after the bend]. Drop through the rack and pivot. Then bend the exposed part up back over the pivot.
Pop the frame on the controller. Hook the BACK on first, then make sure the thin tab on the front fits in the gap under the touchpad.
Slide the pivot on the stick [see image]. If you are forcing it something is wrong [backwards?]. Align the axis straight up and down. The stick should return to the neutral position when pushed to either extreme.
Center the wheel on the rack and press it into the bearing.
If you are putting the assembled wheel on the controller it's easier to slide the pivot on and get it aligned, then clip the frame on back to front.
Crank up the in game sensitivity and enjoy