Creality Ender 3 Y Axis Linear Rail Mod

by bobblejot Aug 24, 2018
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Is this design for the offset holes? And does it use original endstop ?

Any chance you can update this model. I have had great difficulty with this since the only thing connecting the rail to the bed is one screw. No matter how much I tightened it the bed was extremely wobbly. I even put the eccentric nutted v rollers back on the other side but I couldn’t get the bed aligned enough with its own axis to evenly tighten the rollers. I tried to bring it into fusion 360 to extend it a little and add a hole to screw into since there is a hole right next to the drilled one. But fusion 360 doesn’t play nice with outside stls and the dimensions were all wrong.

Hi, the wheels on the opposite side of the rail with the eccentric nuts were always supposed to stay on, they were used as a sort of preload adjustment. This mounting setup was supposed to be simple quick and an improvement over the 4 wheel setup it was never meant to be the perfect solution.

The hole next to the drilled one depends on which bed you have, there seems to have been 2 versions that i know of with either the wheel holes aligned on both sides or offset. Mine originally were offset so that was what i used for the original design.

I did run it for over a year on 2 machines though with no real issues. I am just about to upload a different version of a Y Axis rail setup i use now.

I’ve been using it for a couple months and I guess it’s doing fine. It’s just a bit annoying that I can never tighten one or the other roller and the bed is a bit floppy.

Hi the easiest way i found was to just nip the wheels up so that there's just a bit of friction on the wheel when you turn them by hand. Then just slightly loosen the rail not so much that it falls off but just enough that you can just move it. You can then move the carriage plate back and forth to check it is smooth and then gradually tighten the bolts back up from either front to back or back to front checking that everything is still smooth. Once the rail is tightened back up re-adjust the wheels to give you just a bit of friction.

There will always be a bit of play up and down but it should be better than it was just with the wheels. The new version i use requires more printing and more work to implement but is a better solution as it also fixes the belt path.


Creality Ender 3 Y Axis Linear Rail Mod V2

hi mate just a quick one id like to use this on the upgraded three-point levelling platform but they use the old style of wheel (I.E offset wheels as shown in the attached picture) would I still be able to use your drill guide or would it be wrong as the block wouldn't sit between the two eccentric wheels?

in fact, thinking about it wouldn't even need a drill guide the hole is already in the right place! I might just need to enlarge the none eccentric hole closest to the front of the bed.

Hi sorry for the late reply not been on thingiverse lately and for some reason all my notifications were going to my spam folder. I would need to have a look at the 3 point mod i haven't seen it to be honest.

I am working on a drill guide for the CR-10 to use your rail adapters. Can you tell me the distance between the existing holes you are securing the drill guide with and the hole being drilled? I am getting around 18mm, but I want to be sure so it works out correctly.

Hi apologies just getting caught up, hole spacings are 40mm and the hole dia. were 5mm. Hope this helps.

Can this be mirrored to the right side and used at the same time to completely eliminate the wheels all together?

Sorry for the late reply i will need to check but i don't see why not all i think you will need is another hole guide to get the fixing hole in the right place, I will make one up and post it today.

I had this same idea to mount the carriage at the sides! Thanks for sharing, don't have to crack my head to think of planning this out!

Just bought everythin needed to build this :)

Wish me luck, and big thanks for the design!

Hope everything goes well, just remember to tighten up the M5 bolt well after everything is squared up and you should be good been running it on 3 machines for 4 months now and had no issues as yet. Let me know how you get on :-)

Finally got all the parts, install soon...

Finally got all the part, I'll try to install this next week ^^

Is this mod still needed on a late model Ender-3 (I bought it few weeks ago) ? Or Creality solved the problem on the y-axis? Thank you.

I don't have the updated ender 3 with the 4040 rail so i couldn't say how stable the platform is now.

i think you need add another linear rail in the other side

I kinda want to do this mod as well and just use another rail on the opposite side. I dont like these nylon wheels at all. Cant trust them.

Hi, the reason for the single rail on the side is because i retain the two wheels with their eccentric nuts on the other side. This gives you 3 points of contact and you can adjust the load on the rail using the eccentric nuts. It is extremely smooth and more importantly stable.

oh, sorry, now i see it


No problem i should probably mention that in the description :-)

Does such a mod greatly increase print quality?

It doesn't in itself improve print quality but does help a lot with stability of the platform. And a stable platform is always a plus.

I notice that everything printed in the Y axis direction has rippling. It's very consistent across the whole of the print in the Y direction, but not on the X direction (unless some Y axis movement happened). It's almost like a wheel has a nick or bump in it. Would this mod help fix that? Thanks

There could be a flat spot on a wheel or a bearing with a bad race in it or a dent or knick in the extrusion, Depending on where or what the issue is this mod could either eliminate it or minimise it. Either way it will improve bed stability and costs very little but you should at least strip the wheels and bearings and check everything first just to see if there's anything noticeable that can be repaired before hand.

Thanks for replying. Incidentally the Y belt broke this weekend, so I've got to get under it anyway. I'll take a look per your suggestions.
Another thing I'm tempted to try to reduce the rippling is switch out the bed springs for tubes and go for manual bed meshing function through the flashed TH3D Unified Firmware. Perhaps that combined with your mod will lock things down even more as I'm having to print at really slow speeds to get a half decent print.

I use aluminium spacers with nylon washers top and bottom instead of springs to space the bed from the carriage plate, The nylon washers are just to decouple the heatbed from the plate so it's not acting like a heatsink. If your going to flash the firmware just use vanilla marlin at least then you are getting the latest version plus there is a config already made for the Ender 3. Also once flashed do a proper PID tune of the heatbed and hotend and remember to put M420 S1 in your start gcode to enable the mesh before each print it should come after your G28. There's also a line in marlin that should be enabled to reuse the mesh after homing just can't remember it right now and don't have access to check at the moment.

Fantastic info! Thank you so much. I flashed and did PID calibration with TH3D a few weeks ago, is TH3D not using the latest Marlin then?

Sorry just saw your reply, at the time i wrote the comment TH3D was using an older version i haven't checked lately so not sure if they have updated to the latest release yet.