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Thanhtacles

KaThanha Mags v3.0

by Thanhtacles Aug 27, 2018
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How many darts can the kathanha mag hold.

limitations on the FoamBlast drum springs puts it at 35 recommended maximum.

Yes, but how many darts does the standard body hold.

Hey yo, is it possible if you could post STEP files of this plz? Thanks!!

Yeah sure thing. I've been meaning to do that. Let me do that once I get home

A baseline set of generic print settings would be helpful. Layer height, top and bottom layers, infill, infil type preference, other printing tip. I also saw something somewhere about surface ironing? The whole thing? Just the follower?

Great design. Thank you.

Ive included some layer height guidelines, but your overall wall settings shouldn't differ too much from what you would normally have as default for other prints. The only thing you'd really need is at least two top and bottom wall layers, but there's never a reason why anyone would turn those off.

Any plans on making a Thalon mag?

Could we get a version of the body to fit a 120x120mm bed like the MP Select Mini? Everything else in the kit fits. :)

You might be able to get away with printing it diagonally on the mpsm

Looks like it'll fit that way, but its a ton of support material. I'll have to give it a shot, but I'm concerned the dovetail will get shifted.

Comments deleted.

hey i printed all parts but where can i find that spring that is used in this project

It's the FoamBlast drum spring. You can get it from FoamBlast, OutofDarts, BlasterTECH etc.

Hey Than, would it be possible for you to edit the files slightly to have a reduced lip height? I put a new breech in my longshot and the distance between the lips on the top of the mag and the curve is too large and the breech is running into the next dart in the mag and jamming.

It would be easier to set a maximum print layer in slicer, or just carve it out yourself in 2 minutes

Has any one found out the right settings for printing these? I am having trouble also. One with warping thin edges as it prints and two with very rough overhangs.

EDIT - Settings such as Infill, layer-height, mm/s, and all that jazz.

SECOND EDIT - Also what filament did you use for them?

Without photos or settings to show, there's no way I can help properly. Defects can result from anything, and only you know your printer and slicing settings compatibility best hence why I leave that judgement up to the maker.
Play around with your cooling settings to prevent them from warping. I recommend full contact supports (from plate only). Infil you only need 15%. Don't overextrude, don't go too fast, don't go to hot. Layer heights should always be assumed to be around average(.2 to .3) of what most people have, just don't do anything extreme like .5 then it gets difficult.

I am using a properly calibrated Prusa i3 MK2S with Slic3r as my slicer. I used 0.10mm layer height, 15% honeycomb infill, 50mm/s, 60 degrees celsius heat bed, 215 degrees celsius nozzle, monoprice PLA filament, no supports, and 5 perimeters. Just looking a little rough but it might be fine, I'll see when I get my filament in the mail so that I can start printing my katana magwell.

Monoprice fillament runs below <210. Try cutting down the heat, and bumping layer height to .2. I like to give it fill contact supports just in case.

Oh I meant Prusa brand filament, oops. XD I just got some Monoprice filament though so thats for the tip! I will try full contact supports next time.

Ok, just wanted to share my findings.

Print WITH supports, but supports Slic3r supports with 0.2mm contact distance and 0.2mm Interface Pattern Spacing. That means these supports are useless except for blocking most of the heat from the print bed. The bed (at least for me) emits too much heat, and I can't turn it down without the print failing. How the bed affects the print is this, when you are printing the next layer for the angle on the bottom, the heat from the heat bed warps it upwards into the extruder as it passes. This for me results in terrible looking prints. With the supports acting like a heat sink, I am able to print the overhangs just fine. A larger extruder fan could not really have helped because the second the extruder leaves it get hot again and warps it. At the end of the print the supports aren't even attached to the finished product.

Took me a bit to figure this out, you may print without supports but your prints will look like crap with no major finishing. Also the angle will still not be right. Happy printing! I will be making 10 of these then posting a make!

Btw I was printing the KathanhaBody14mag_v1 in these tests.

A very helpful video on explaining this and more. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqEWl51s9Rw

OH YES!! I have been trying to model this for so long and just keep failing. YOU ARE AMAZING!! THANK YOU!! Btw i might remix this so that you can make a music wire spring but using a drum spring is very intuitive! Gonna see if I can get my hands on some of those drum springs. :)

In case you want to repurpose existing tech, halfdart square springs will also work with these. You can farm them from worker halfmags, but monkeemods also sells them now

Why would I spend the money to buy worker mags only to take out the least expensive part in it and render it useless? XD

Are these cross compatible with Jet katana mags and adapters?

Yes, they are also compatible with Heath's Katana Molle belt holders

I just printed my first KaThana mag and it printed great! i printed it on .1mm layer heights with 99% infil using ABS+ with rafts. One thing I would recomend, though, is making the part where the follower travels a little bit thicker. When I was remove the body pieces from the rafts, i was nervous about that part snapping and breaking. luckily, it didn't, although some people may have trouble with it and it may break.

Oh interesting, I've not done a full raft elevation print before. Yeah, typically the bottom layer(s) of FDM is be best layer as if it was continuous, hence normally this can get away with having a translucent bi-layer wall. Regardless, it's actually optional to print it if you so chose to turn thin-wall detection off when slicing, so you'd just get open channel mags like Jet's and it'll still work

I was just going to tell you that you made a mistake with the extender body, but then i see you made a version1.1

could you take a photo of how you assembled the spring,

im not seeing how you managed to use a round drum spring from foamblast to push the darts up

The drum spring is a constant force coiled spring. You hook it into the tab at the top of the mag body, and then sit the mag follower on top of the spring. Assemble the body. It's super simple.

As you add more darts into the magazine, the spring will uncoil along the long "trench".

By in large prints well but the angled sides on the body pieces came out pretty rough for me even with supports. Any tips?

Whats your extruder size? Generally when a printer isnt dialed in to do overhangs well, it'll droop a bit causing burrs. I recommend having well-contacted supports to ensure dimensional fidelity, and sanding. Another tip provided by Raphael Wong on doing overhangs is to blast cooling so that the overhangs set faster than they can droop.

I've a pretty much stock MK2S extruder and fan setup so that probably has a lot to do with it.

I just did some reading and it turns out that lower layer heights (e.g. 0.10mm) enable you to print steeper overhangs, which makes sense. I used the adaptive layer/layer editing feature in Slic3r and I'm doing a test print now. Fingers crossed...

[Update] Nope, no luck -- angled edges are still rough and uneven. Looks like I'll have to upgrade the blower/cooling system on my stock Prusa Mk3.

I'm probably going to flood the edges with epoxy of some kind and then sand until its flat and smooth.

Same problem here. AFAIK everyone gets that problem, because the overhangs are extremely steep. I don't see a simple solution to this, because this is the inherent shape of the Katana mag body.

You can sand the surface, or try using supports (I see you've already done that), or even try printing the mag body upright with supports for the jigsaw slots.

[update] Actually, the solution might be to use lower layer heights, e.g. 0.10mm or less. That should enable you to print steeper overhangs.