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Greg191134

Bondtech BMG + E3D V6 print head for Creality CR-10(S)

by Greg191134 Sep 2, 2018
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I have remixed this design, you can find it here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3574035

My remix is not perfect but it works with the E3D Volcano if you print the fan shroud and mount or regular V6 if you just print the original files from gregs design. It has an EzABL mount, and some reconfigured wiring routing, and holes are now sized for use with M3 brass inserts. there are more photos and assembly documentation.

Bondtech BMG + E3D Volcano + EzABL + Brass Inserts CR10S Direct Drive Mount

Love your design, but is there someone who can make a MGN12 mount for it instead of the v-rollers ? I have tried using fusion360 but I'm not skilled enough to get the dimples out that are left for the wheels and join it with another type of mount.

I printed the back - it looks like there is no room for the push fit on the top of the v6 hot end?

Hi! First of all congratulations its an outstanding design and thanks for sharing it, i was wondering what infiil you recomend

Thank you! This is a great mount. I was having major issues getting TPU to print with my Bowden tube setup, I was having three or four failed prints for every good one. The first try with this setup came our perfect! Great mod.

Great design and much appreciated! I'm converting my Geeetech A30 to use the E3DV6 and Bondtech BMG... I was wondering if you would be kind enough to share the solid model of the back piece? The mounting for the Geeetech is different than the CR10 and I'll need to make adjustments. I've been working on it in Fusion, but I'm not so great at repairing the mesh so my version looks horrible. I'd be very appreciative and would gladly send you the finished file to add to this make. Thanks!

+1
In very similar situation here. There is quite a bit of redesign that is required though as most of the back holes need to be moved. There is another option that is half way there, but not as fancy as this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3172522.

adaptor plate for A30 and direct bondtech left hand e3d v6
by apak

which multicolor filament have you used in these prints? It's awesome!

Super design, sobre, parfait !!!! merci Greg !

Would love too use this design, any chance of an EZabl mount?
Thanx

Will this also work with the E3D V6 Lite hotend? I don't see a space for the collar to fix the PTFE tube in the hotend.

Awesome part. Thanks a lot for sharing it with us!!!

Made this and works like a charm. Also like others mentioned, the thought gone into this is amazing!

I wanted to try it because when I had the Petsfang with the E3D I had heat creep issues, even running the Noctua 4020 at 13.2v. This solved that, and I can run the fan at 11v, still plenty cooling for the heatsink, never had better prints.

I still wanted to use a Bowden setup though, so I took a knife and some sandpaper to the E3D mount, so that it could fit with the Bowden coupler and coller clip.

Any support for a cable chain and IR probe sensor?
Thanks.

Hi, It seems great design and I printed it from ABS.
Can someone explain how the front and rear body are screwed together?
I dont see any holes for nuts on the back of the rear part. Do you screw the 2xM3x20 bolts in the plastic only?

That's right, you screw them directly in the rear part

Greg, this is one of the most well thought out designs I have seen for these creality machines. Im cutting my teeth on ABS with this print and its really a great piece. Ill be installing this on a heavily modified ender 3 (if you can even call it that at this point) nice work brother

Hey Greg, quick question I notice the BondTech is backward from normal feed. Do you need to set the filament drive to be negative in the Marlin software?

Hey Bill, you can config that in marlin, or reverse the direction by changing the wires of the motor, like i did. ( https://youtu.be/7rABznITELA?t=661 )
Dont forget to set the steps up to 415 steps / mm..
Good luck

Very balanced print head! Very good, the weight of the motor does not push the head downwards, because he is still pointing back, contrary to some other solutions, where he points to the left, or to the front. I achieve very good and fast ( 100mm/sec PLA ) print results with this head. (ABS, PLA, TPU) Have taken the TriangleLab extruder from AliExpress, it's exactly like the right-sided Bondtech made, but cheaper. Then, of course, the pancake nema- motor and as a fan a Sunon 40x40x20mm MB40201V2-A99 DC 12V 6200rpm, which has more power than the Noctua ...
Thank you for this excellent head!

Do you know if there is already a compatible duct for a volcano heat block? Either way I love this setup. Thanks for posting this.

I really love this setup, Great work! I really wish there was a Microswiss version or at least a way to attach a groove mount bowden connector to a microswiss hotend.

In my optinion Microswiss have the best quality for all-metal hotends. But the critical path there quality matters, is only the bore there filament and metal have contact.
So:
cloned coldend - no problem, there is the ptfe tube anyway.
cloned heater - no problem
cloned full-metal heatbreak - forget it
nozzle: if wear resistant needed, microswiss or ruby. Or change cheep brass nozzles often.

So the clowned parts you can use without any problems are less than 5$ from china (aliexpress/trianglelabs). The microswiss heatbreak is about 20$. The nozzle is your decission.

I perfectly understand your wish, if you already have a complete original microswiss hotend. But I thing most people usind ender 3 only have stock cloned microswiss-style hotend anyway, so changing to an all-metal v6 with microswiss heatbreak is an upgrade worth it.

Awesome design, any possible way the same moddle could be created but that the frame would fitt a linear rail MGN9H 9mm linear rail guide instead than the original backplate? :) Let me know if its possible

What do you use for retraction distance & speed for this setup?

0,7 mm of retraction at 40 mm/s should be a good start

Hello i love the simplicity of this hotend.

I need to know about the extruder and v6.
They sell them as direct drive and remote drive extruder. Which style should i get to make this kit?

Only difference is the grove to pneumatic adapter. The bondtech bmg (or clones) have a grove mount for the v6. "remote" simply means a grove to pneumatic adapter (like you can get from china for 2,10$) is added.
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/trianglelab-Aluminum-alloy-Bowden-extruder-1-75MM-adapter-1-75MM-Connector-for-TItan-Extruder-BMG-Extruder/32959601701.html?spm=a2g0x.10010108.1000016.1.66657030raEAca&isOrigTitle=true

So no difference in the extruder, only one part more in the package if you order remote drive extruder.

The adapter is not needed here.

Thank you for the reply. I saw this when i was completely new and didn't understand it all. With your explication and a little experience behind me it makes more sense now. :)

Hello.
I really like the form factor. I've got a different hotend: AIO Evo from Hotends.fr.
The size is almost the same as e3Dv6, except it's not that large: 16x61,85. It's quite compact.
Do you think it will fit?

Really nice design and thanks for sharing! Would you upload editable files that I can open in SolidWorks as well? I would like to make some chamfers to some of the edges :)

I need source files too. I wanna add some m3 nuts and make hotend cooler 10mm

Any ideas on how to mount an ezbl or inductive probe?

Great design, i especially like the cables management. I’ve edited the extruder plate for right handed clone of the bmg but figured after printing it that you should be good with the original model as long as the cables are not in the way.

Did you guys used supports for the fan shroud ? seems to me that it's going to be hell to remove them from it

Supports "Touching Buildplate" and you should be good to go.

Thank you. I endd up using none for that part and it went fine.

can you use this with the stock hot end

Just had to post to compliment you on this design - very neat packaging for everything, and the attention to detail is unusual (things like the cable paths you've cut in). You've given me some excellent ideas to design something similar that is tailored to my Frankenstein i3 clone, but I may very well get lazy and simply print yours, it would certainly work just fine other than needing me to change the carriage mount holes and have the (big) motor facing out to the left side!

Hey Greg I have your file printing in ABS right now on the CR10 S and it's printing very well Thank You. I'll keep you posted as it goes.!! video of it started
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-OkLlp2k05oocCTA_Prh_NfFbYg6myqJ

well update on this is failure. the bottom warped and is unusable. Thought I had it down with painters tape and purple glue. No go.
I may try again but ABS is frustrating.

New update 10-28-18. I have discovered that while using the blue scotch 3m tape and the purple glue on top of the tape that my prints were still lifting but only during the cool down after the print finished. The shrinkage of the ABS caused the the blue tape to pull from the bed which allowed the plastic to move in the warping directions. So I applied the purple glue to the glass bed and then while hot I applied the blue 3m tape and also applied the purple glue to the top of the tape. This not only held the tape to the bed but also the print to the tape while in the cool down process.

Have you tried PETG less warping with it

It is a fantastic design. What modification must be made to mount a right bondtech? Thank you

Thanks I was wondering about that. Should be a simple modification.

With a left hand Bondtech, the bracket that secures the wires on the spacer between the motor and the Bondtech is just above where the wires from the hotend arrive. With a right hand Bondtech it will be offset to the left. I don't know if it's really an issue but if it is it can be fixed by modifying the STL in TinkerCAD to extend the bracket and move the part that hold the wires a bit on the right.

Hello, Could you tell me how many steps you have set up the bondtech? I get 477 steps, but I'm having the odd problem in printing. Thank you!

I believe that Bondech suggests 415 esteps on their website

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

I've got 413 by measuring manually so I guess 415 is correc.t

Great design, could you please share the BMG model so i can use it as a template to modify your model for right hand BMG or may be someone reading this already made the modification ?

Any mount for EZABL? thanks!

Nice design and I will make it for my cr10s. I already have a Bondtech extruder but it is right hand. Can you explain what the spacer modification is to make it work for a left hand, please?
Thanks

Sorry Terrace, did not see your comment. See my reply to Daniv on the same topic. It may just work as is but not sure.

Awesome! saw this creation on your twitter a while back, didnt realize you had released it untill just now! :)
Is it possible to use the stock extrudermotor? or isnt there enough clearence?

You really need a 25mm pancake one. The stock motor will interfere with the side and top extrusion

Pancake it is then, thank you!

I just uploaded slightly modified parts. Make sure this is the ones you print.

Ditto to redpiyaya, Would need to modify fan piece to accomodate extra length of volcano

Can you make a Volcano with BLTouch?

There is no modification needed for that. Just use original Prusa files nozzle-fan-45deg-support.stl and nozzle-fan-45deg.stl. Drill the support to dia 4 mm where it attach to the body. You're good.

Greg,

What about this air intake?
https://i.imgur.com/cSVJRFl.png

This could help with possible heatcreep and it seems there's enough room for it ;)

Fan for radiator is 4020, higher static pressure and so higher flowrate than the typical 4010. No obstacle on airflow path beside the radiator fins. You won't have any heatcreep issues. The picture seems to show a design that use a ventury effect. 1.the air speed at the outlet of the fan is insufficient for a ventury to be efficient, 2. static pressure is what you are after to overcome the pressure drop of the fins

The pic shows the extruder cover on the newest R3 prusa pieces revision that includes the 45º frontal fan mod as well... The surface on the prusa was way smaller and they still introduced this opening, that's why I was worried... So if I want to install a 4010 instead, it will stay 10mm farer from the fins and that's all?

Neat haha! thanks! :)

This design looks superb! What's the blue thing popping out of the bondtech?

The blue thing is a piece of capricorn tubing. You can use a regular PTFE tube here, no need for capricorn

Ah ok so you either feed it from above using the capricorn or from the side by inserting the white PFTE instead?

Yes, that's right, you have the 2 options

First, great design. Can you thicken the bottom walls on the body front and rear parts? They are too thin and snapped off when I was removing them from the heat bed.

Thanks,

Curtis

I agree that this part is very thin but it is on purpose. This part is right above the heater block. Making it thin allow the air flowing through the radiator to cool it.

This design looks beautiful. Please tell me your making one for the stock extruder with the V6 hotend. It's small, sleek and looks like it would work very well.

Hi Greg191134,
Thanks for posting this design.
I've fully printed the design for CR 10s.
But is not complete in terms of how to mount the motor on top of the hot end.
Thanks
T.

I'm not sure to get your question right. The motor is bolted to the BMG extruder (with the spacer that also holds the wires) , the extruder is attached to the head body with the groove mount. This is very stiff and nothing more is needed.

Hi, would i be able to use this with a titan extruder?

The Titan extruder has a groove mount (same as the Bondtech) so you can use it. If you want to also use the bracket that hold the wires, you will probably need to redesign it.

Hes probably already printed it but the spacer needed to be extended by 3.5mm on the right side to accommodate the Titan. I remixed it here - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3201192

Hmm, that link goes to a 404?

Hi, really like the design! Looks like its really made for this to be a unit. Fits the overal design well!
So its look like you have some free space on the right side for a BLTouch Sensor, maybe? ;-)

Thanks. I do not own a BLTouch yet and so cannot test but agree that it could probably fit on the right side

Greg, Great work although I haven't printed it yet. I am delayed due to the fact there is no mount for a capacitive sensor. I admit I am too lazy to venture off from Fusion 360 and into tinkercad. You said that you never made a mount for this sensor because you don't have one. Well, that could all change VERY quickly, if you know what I mean....

Can I send you a sensor (to keep) for your printer in return for a modified version with a capacitive side mount?