IKEA Lack Enclosure Creality Ender 3 Compilation

by Woody1978 Sep 4, 2018
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I am having issues printing all the top parts at once. is there a way to get the STL files for each item so I can print them 2 at a time. bed is having issues. Please let me know if this has been answered already. IDK how to only select one of them out of the STL.


I do not know exactly what you mean, but you can make copies in your slicer of one. so you can print 1 part multiple times at once.

Sorry if this has been asked previously but i didn't have the mental capacity to route through 152 comments...
If you print abs inside this enclosure will the power supply and motors etc be ok heat wise?
I see that the power supply is still inside??

sorry for delay. my power supply is still outside the enclosure. If i print ABS i have temperatur of 31 degrees inside. everything is okay

Another stupid question, but how exactly do you attach the magnets for the door? I understand to glue one in the bracket, but do you drill a 10mm hole in the plexi and fill it with a magnet, or glue it on the outside of the plexi, or what?

yes of course, i drilled a 10mm hole in the plexi and glue the magnet into this hole.

Stupid question, but do you somehow use the double-ended screws that come with the tables? Or just use normal screws on the risers?

you don´t need the screws from the tables ;-)

Thanks for the clarification!

Für ein Scharnier brauche ich zweimal das gleiche plus einmal das gegenstück plättchen oder habe ich was übersehen ?

Sorry das ich erst jetzt antworte. Ja das ist genau richtig, hatte anfangs auch erst überlegt wie das zusammengehört ;-)

Hey you probably already answered this somewhere but I was wondering what hardware you used to attach the hinges and handles to the plexiglass

Yes i think so, you need screws to fix the hinges and handles ;-)

I think it would help everybody, if you could put the dimensions of the plexiglass cuts into the thing's description. It helps everybody to build the enclosure and you don't get asked daily.

Thank you, your work is appreciated

Is the 445mm the standard width where a door is, with the height dependant on the riser height used?
I've printed 8 x 50mm risers and will only be having 1 door at the front so would assume the door glass would be 445 x 500mm and the other non-opening sides being 450 x 500mm? Would it be safe to buy 4 lots of 445 x 500mm, or would that leave a gap around the edges next to the legs?

Thanks in advance :)

Is the 445mm the standard width where a door is, with the height dependant on the riser height used? => yes, it is.
I've printed 8 x 50mm risers and will only be having 1 door at the front so would assume the door glass would be 445 x 500mm and the other non-opening sides being 450 x 500mm? => i think so, the leg is 400mm + 2x50mm = 500mm height. But if you want be sure, and you have already printed 8x50mm risers, so assembly the table and you can measure by yourself

Thank you :)

I'm away from my printer and the parts just now, but I'll build them this evening to take measurments for the acrylic and will post a make once I've got it all assembled.

Thanks again

how do you deal with the cable chain for the Y-axis bumping on to the back side of the enclosure?

Normal ist das sicher nicht... Das eine hat fertig gedruckt.hat aber 2 Linien die wie Sollbruchstellen aussehen. Das andere hat auf einmal genau an diesen Stellen mit Versatz gedruckt wie kann das sein?

Hatte das Problem auch schon. Bei mir war die y-achse zu schwergängig

I suggest this IKEA Ledberg spotlights. Easy and cheap

what screws do i need to use for these? Just got my lack tables

Does anyone know the MDF measures? Same as the photo?

Which MDF do you mean? the bottom or the walls?

I wanted the parts in MDF, the column or wall and the floor ... Well, I will print the parts that I put together in the printer, the parts that did not print the MDF to make the structure, what is it?

Is it only my slicer or on the 50mm mount, the top part that keeps the feet of the table is separate from the main body of the element? It separates very easy

hi mitakadan,

can you try another slicer?

It's the same with Slic3r. It says it's made of two parts and when printed it separates where they connect. I upgraded Cura to 4.0 (the picture was from 3.6) and the same result. The 70mm riser also got this problem, but on another layer.

Hi, can anyone upload an assembly drawing in good resolution? There is a lot of pieces here and it would be nice to see in isometric view what should go where. Thanks!

Hi Woody1978,

Thank you for the great design!
Because I don't want a permanent mount of both tables I've created a cilinder which fits into the holes of the risers.
This way I can lift the top table if needed.


IKEA Lack Creality Ender 3 - Riser mount

hi highonfire, thanks for the congratulations. The idea with the removable upper table I find class. Thanks for the remix!

What are the exact size screws used for the risers. I think I read somewhere 3mm or 4mm torx screws? Which is correct or will either work? What about the length?

Hello, it's really not hard to pick the right screws. I do not know what screws you have at home, but I just took what I found in my drawers. For the risers I mean 4x16mm screws, since the Ikea table tops only have a thin plate top and bottom, the screws do not have to be long.

Hello Woody1978, I wanted a clarification on what kind of chrome sheet you put on the MDF panel at the base. Is this a sheet purely for aesthetic purposes and therefore for self-adhesive ones? Or is it a heat-insulating sheet like the ones behind the radiators? Or is it heat resistant if there is a fire to protect the base from any burns? Thanks in advance and congratulations

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Hi amonphi,
this chrome sheet is only for aesthetic purposes ;-)

Thank you

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If I follow your main enclosure plexiglass of 540mm x 445mm (I'm not building the top part of the enclosure, i'm just building the part to enclose the actual printer) then I just need the uprights_complete_revised_70mm.stl and the uprights_riser_completed_100mm.stl right? I just want to print the risers and uprights that match your plexiglass dimensions so I don't need to measure or play the guessing game with the plexiglass cuts, haha. If I understand correct, those are the two sizes I need? Thanks if you have the time to reply, and awesome build!

Hi, excuseme. I am an idiot maybe, but I don´t understand how pieces 'pan_head_left_hand' and 'pan_head_right_hand' are mounted.
See pictures, how do I fit one inside the other one? Thanks.

The Answer from EricbFPV is correct. you see it also in my pictures = one left hinge in orange and one left hinge in black. try it and you will see the function, it is very easy... all...

use two rights for one hinge that is a right hand swing door and two lefts for a left hand swing door

I'm also lost on this. you mention a bunch of things which you "used" but it seems a little unclear whether you have included them in your files or not. ie the filament guide doesn't seem to be, but you obviously have handles and hinges in there.

I'm lost here. There are so many parts, especially uprights and risers in the file that I cannot see which I'm supposed to print. Do you think you'd be able to compile a list that tells which and how many parts are actually needed?

ditto. shame he's not replying to us :(

welche Stützen brauch ich jetzt wo? Ich merke gerade das 4 Unterschiedliche sind.
Hab mir jetzt schon die revised jeweils 4X gedruckt.
Dachte die sind für unten und oben die anderen?
War das Falsch ?

alles schon geklärt jetzt? ansonsten auch gerne per PM

Danke. Mir geht es genauso.

Die Stützen gibt es aktuell in den Größen: 1cm, 5cm, 5.5cm (uprights_complete_revised_70mm), 8.5cm (uprights_complete_revised.stl) und 10cm realer Höhengewinn.
(Aber messt den realen Höhengewinn lieber einfach nochmal selbst nach. War nur ausm Kopf was ich so in Erinnerung hatte.)

Die Beine des Lack Tisches haben 40cm. Wenn ihr Plexiglas (Hobbyglas etc.) Scheiben habt, die 50,5cm hoch sind, dann braucht ihr pro Bein 2 Stützen die insgesamt 10,5cm zusätzliche Höhe bringen. Sprich: Unten den Riser mit 5,5cm, und oben den Riser mit 5cm.

Welche Stützen ihr also braucht hängt einzig davon ab, welche Plexiglas Scheiben ihr kauft, bzw. auf welche Größe ihr diese zuschneidet (abbrecht)

hi, i change the size of the leg to 7.5cm and i am ready to print but before i go i wanted to ask is 20% infill is really enough ? or should i go to 30-40%?
also in what speed you printed them?


so, i printed the risers in 19% and after i finished completely i put over 30kg on the top of the enclosure... everything is ok ;-)
with my ender 3 i print everything regular about 100mm/s-125mm/s, but i have a titan extruder, e3d v6 hotend and so on...

Thanks for the reply,
I already printed every thing on 50mm/s and 30% infill, took few days but I am done and it looks great! Now just to get the plexiglass and assembly it all!!..
Promise pictures when I am done!.

By the way i got tired of the pursa look with orange pla, I printed with multicolor pla and it turned out awesome!.

very very nice... i don´t like the prusa look, but black, orange, white are my colors ;-)

Can anyone give a list of how many times eacht item needs to be printed?

Maybe a assemble guide or something?

yes, this is possible, but normally you can very easy check which parts do you need for which height.

Hi. Vielen Dank für die Zusammenstellung deines Enclosure.
Sieht echt klasse aus.

Um den Riser(10cm) zu modifizieren, welches CAD Programm hast du verwendet und welches Werkzeug muss man dort auswählen?
Da der 10cm Riser eigentlich nur 8,5cm zusätzliche Höhe bringt benötige ich noch einen 1,5cm Riser um auf 50cm Höhe zu kommen.

Wenn ich das richtig sehe, dann sind in den Risern kleine runde Löcher in die du runde Magnete rein hast oder? Und auf der Plexiglas Seite werden die Magnete einfach drangeklebt oder?
Hast du die genauen Maße der Magnete oder nen Link zum Produkt?

Danke Gruß

Hi ja gerne.
Ich habe die Riser einfach mit Tinkercad in zwei Teile geschnitten, dann ein Stück abgeschnitten, dupliziert und alles wieder zusammensetzen bis gewünschte höhe erreicht ist. Ich kann dir nachher noch eine 10cm Version machen.
Die Magnete https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00K9RBU7Q/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 habe ich gekauft!

So, habe die Riser Version 100mm Höhe Standbein, Gesamthöhe 117mm erstellt und der Kollektion hinzugefügt!


Vielen Dank für die Anleitung und das neue Teil.
Ging ja wirklich super fix.

Schöne Grüße,

Hallo, zunaechst mal grosses Lob - sieht echt gut aus.

Ich habe eine Frage zur Tiefe. Wenn ich es richtig verstanden habe, ist der Lack-Tisch ein wenig zu klein, um den Druckbereich komplett zu nutzen. 200x200 wuerden mir im Prinzip auch ausreichen, aber wie sichere ich es am besten ab, dass kein Unfall passiert und bei einer "Fehlbedienung" meinerseits der Schlitten ans Gehaeuse faehrt? Kann man das einstellen oder muss ein weiterer End-Stop-Schalter gesetzt werden?

Danke und Gruesse

Du brauchst da gar nichts absichern... also fände ich absolut unnötig...wenn du 200x200 druckst dann passt das, hauptsache du hast keine Mega großen Klammern für Glasbett o.ä. dran die noch abstehen!

What are the parts that need to be printed for the lower cabinet legs? I already accidentally printed one of the top cabinet corners, and my priority is the lower.

for ender 3? you can use any riser if you want. you have to choose which height you want to build. so i build it with 100mm riser for the bottom and 70mm riser at the top. for the case uprights i used only 10mm risers between ikea lack.

It all looks perfect
But i cant find this side fan cover

hi. this side fan cover is ok, but i don´t use the original mk8 ender 3 hotend at this moment. i print with an E3D V6 clone.
Anyway you can find everything in my collection for ender 3 https://www.thingiverse.com/Woody1978/collections/ender-3 so it is the simplest way!

nice design, 1 question why you move PSU outside?

Psu not likes heat

Hi, i have question About cables. Can i use originál cables? And what size of screws you used to build. Thank you

I took a lot of 4x16mm screws, but you see what you need if you build this step by step. Of course, you don´t need other cables!

Nice, Thanks! Another question on you. Wich stands are Better to use on bottom part? You have two options isn't it? Thanks

which parts do you mean? you can also send me a private message

welche Abmessungen haben die Plexiglas Platten?
Also auch die Stärke.

Hallo, bitte weiter unten in den Kommentaren nachlesen, dort habe ich schon mehrfach die Plexiglas Maße aufgeschrieben.
Stärke habe ich 5mm gehabt, 4mm geht auch... jeder wie er es haben möchte!

Comments deleted.

How can you "fit" the ender with the pullup in the bed ? if i put the pullup in the bed and then the put the bed upfront it will clash with the front door.... i'm missing something?

I'm also have chain... i'm only able to have the lack close if i only have one of the two... or chain or bed pullup...


I made a video and inserted above. The part I printed there has a length of 26cm without the pressure bed colliding with the walls or the door. On the edge of the heating bed you can not print with the door closed, but I do not have to print this before exactly one part with the 235x235mm.

Thanks for the video, but in the video you don't have the pullup in the bed...
I have my end gcode to put the bed up to the front end the print ends, but if i close the door that il bring issues, because with the pull up it will not fit, when the bed is in the max y position

By "pullup" i mean bed handler (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2957507)

by LarnOm

hi. I don't use the bed handle bar I think this isn't so much usefully thing. at the end of print I drive also bed in y=-200mm and everything is fine

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Are the stock screws with the ender3 long enough to support the filament guide spindle and the rod?

No, I used 5mm longer screws to fix the filament guide.

Awesome! Thanks for the quick reply!

Hi Woody1978, can you tell me witch kind of material is the base? Alluminium? Thanks!

Hi. This is a normal MDF 16 or 19mm plate where the printer is on it and the lower risers are screwed on. Have just stuck to chrome foil on it ;-)

What re the dimensions for the plexi on the top section?

Hi, was für eine Unterlage hast du genommen, also auf was steht der Drucker?

Hi. Das ist eine ganz normale MDF 16 oder 19mm Platte wo der Drucker draufsteht und die unteren Riser angeschraubt sind. Habe halt noch Chromefolie draufgeklebt ;-)

Ah die Folie machts :) danke für die info. Hab im Januar was zu tun :)

What size screws where. Used. To hold the risers to. Table?

To fix the risers I used 3mm or 4mmx16mm Torx screws. Holds very well.

How did you ensure the printbed from the front doesn't hit the panel or the heated bed cable chain doesn't hit the back of the enclosure?

I am having this problem - either the cable hits the back of the enclosure preventing it from going all the way back or the bed hits the door. Anyone else run into this? Is there a fix?

Comments deleted.

if you comment here, nobody will read it, it is to down in the list. do you see my comment below? you can´t take a standard ikea lack table for the full printbed, because the space is not enough. but for me, i don´t need the ends of the printbed.
so you have to choise if want this or not!

Thanks for reply

The printer is positioned in a max. Y direction the cable chain does not come against the wall. I have yet to print any parts larger than 200mm. Otherwise, I just take a larger printer ;-)

I designed a cable pocket as a solution to this problem: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3624551 . Mount this to the back of your enclosure and it'll give you a full range of motion for your printer cables.

Ikea Lack Enclosure Cable Pocket

really nice, thanks for this. i put this link in my description! good work

That's nice. Thanks for confirming.

Good morning. Good job. Could you tell me the metacrilat wall sizes, please?

Thanks. The Plexiglas are 540mm x 445mm for the Main enclosure

can you add the rest of the files please

It looks to me there are a few files missing. The tool holder top and the insets for the filament slots. Could you add them to the STL files? Great idea though. Looking forward to seeing what dimensions I need for the filament slots.

i put the link in the summary for the tool holder.

But what you mean with "insets for the filament slots?

Sorry, I thought the Filament guides were part of your design. I searched and found them here. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2156762
Good work, printing now.

LACK Table Filament Guide

hab mir überlegt auch so ein Gehäuse zu bauen, da ich die Idee mit den IKEA Tischen ebenso simpel wie genial finde! Ich hätte aber noch ein paar Fragen...
Hast du schonmal mit flexiblem Filament gedruckt? Also ich will wissen wie gut es mit den Filamentumlenkungen klarkomnmt... Außerdem wäre es nett wenn du mir den Link von der Durchführung schicken könntest. (Hab ich die Datei übersehen ?)
LG Paul

Hi, ja das war auch mein bestreben, und günstig sollte es bleiben.
Die Durchführung hab ich von hier genommen https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2156762
allerdings habe ich den fehler gemacht es mittig vom Tisch durchzuführen, was nicht sein sollte. Am besten wäre die Flucht zu nehmen wo der bowden extruder auch ist. Ansonsten sind die mit Kugellager gedruckten Rollen genial. Soweit ich weiß macht TPU zu drucken nur sinn wenn man einen direct extruder hat und kein Bowden...

LACK Table Filament Guide

shouldent the power supppy be outside of the enclosure? you just asking for troubles

yes. In fact all the electronic besides the motors should be outside the enclosure.

Hey man, not sure how easy is it to do, but can you make a version that allows acrylic windows of 50cm? Probably easier if getting the 70mm version a couple cm lower.

In my hardware store I can get a couple of 100x50cm panels and cut them to make the 4 sides, if I have to get 4 of those it would be hella expensive. I thought about combining the 10mm riser for the table on top and combining it with the 70mm riser, but that sums to 40+7+1=48cm and every tiny bit counts :D

Ps: Nice compilation and mods, I can wait to learn to do stuff :P

so, i put an 50mm uprights riser for you in this compilation. i hope this fit perfect for you.
let me know if you finished your enclosure and do some pics under makes ;-)

Extremely thankful :D

First few layers already printing, it's gonna take like 20 hours to make 4 of those, I'll report back when everything is completed.

Hi, did these work for you? I would to make a build with the same dimensions.

Hey, It worked perfectly, you can see the pictures under "makes"

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Hey, extrem cooler Aufbau, super Idee!
Ich würde allerdings gerne den Drucker auf den 2. Tisch stellen, oben dann nichts mehr drauf, unten z.B. Stauraum für Filament etc.
Die Filamentrolle passt dann vermutlich nicht mehr mit ins Gehäuse oder?
Was hast du für die Türen etc. als "Glas" benutzt?

Danke Dir.

Hey danke. Hat auf jedenfall Spaß gemacht die Teile zu drucken und der Zusammenbau auch.
Wenn du den Original Spulenhalter meinst dann müsstest du den Aufbau mindestens noch 200mm höher bauen, also den oberen Raum.
Glas ist kein guter Isolierwerkstoff, daher hab ich Acrylglas in 5mm Stärke genommen, 4mm tun es auch, aber ich habe Reste vom Nachbarn für ein Bierchen bekommen ;-)

Sehe gerade du hast die "Riser" auf 70mm verkleinert? Würde einiges an Filament und Zeit sparen :D
Dein Aufbau auf den Bildern ist 70mm? Dann würde ich das auch so machen.

Danke Dir für die Antwort :)
Ich werde so bauen wie du, mit den Filamentrollen oben, nutze dafür diesen TUSH Halter :)
Acrylglas muss ich mal schauen, wird es ja sicherlich auch im Baumarkt geben.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

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Comments deleted.

what do you use for pins for hinges? what size screws/bolts for the hinges and handle?

For anyone coming across this comment and looking for a more precise answer, the guy who originally remixed the hinge design answered it here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1933479/comments

He said basically that you can use a strand of 1.75mm PLA for a hinge, but that he used 2.5mm brass rod. He also said you could drill out the hole to accommodate any diameter pin you like, the implication, I think, being that you print the hinges at 100% infill.

hinge, Autoclose remix
by Hagster

i used 1.75mm PLA for the hinges... the most screws are M3 or M4 you see it when you have the parts in your hands... just try it

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

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Hallo, erstmal ein Lob für die Arbeit, sieht echt nice aus. Aber.. du kannst jetzt auf keinen Fall mehr die volle Verfahrtiefe des Tisches ausnutzen... Korrigier mich wenn ich irre...
Zweitens würde ich gerne wissen ob du eine gute Umlenkung für dein Filament hast, kann ich nicht wirklich erkennen. Das Problem das ich sehe ist, dass du durch die oben, mittig angeordnete Filamentzuführung eine unnötige Erhöhung der benötigten Zugkraft in Kauf nimmst da der Bowdenextruder des Ender ja seitlich gefüttert werden möchte. Ich hätte da Bedenken in Bezug auf ein eventuell auftretendes Underfeeding wenn ne Rolle ma bissl widerspenstig ist.
Und noch eine Frage: Ich habe auch einen Ender 3 und bin deshalb immer wieder erstaunt wenn ich Bilder von ihm sehe wo eine Glasplatte installiert ist... WOZU? Hat das nen speziellen Grund? Und deine scheint ja auch noch dicker zu sein wie die Aluplatte.. Wie lange dauert es bis die warm wird?! Versteh mich nicht falsch, ich will dich nicht kritisieren ich wills nur verstehen. Denn ich nutze die originale Platte und alles hält Bombe darauf.
Auf jeden Fall weiter so, sieht ordentlich aus.

Danke, und jein bisher brauchte ich nur max. 200x200mm als druckgröße und das passt.
Das mit der Umlenkung war von mir auch falsch gedacht da ich mir zuviele Muster angeschaut hatte, und dann waren die Ausschnitte schon drin ;-) durch die Kugelgelagerten Rollen (habe die Bilder mit reingepackt) funktioniert es einwandfrei. Eventuell werde ich nochmal eine Bohrung an die Seite setzen.
Naja die Glasplatte gibt ne MEGA gute glatte Unterseite, aber mittlerweile drucke ich auch hin wieder auf dem Alu, Problem ist nur das ich eine Wölbung in der Mitte nach Innen habe und das gleiche ich mit der Glasplatte recht gut aus...

PS.: was macht dein Temperaturproblem im Schuppen) ;-) Gruß von Christian xDDD

Dat läuft, das habe ich nur wenn ich ABS drucken will. Eventuell baue ich mir auch noch eine Einhausung, allerdings will ich meinen Tisch nicht einschränken sonst wird es bei der nächsten Drohne eng. Aber ich drucke auch öfters viele Kleinteile auf einmal.. Da brauch ich schon den Platz und dann fände ich es blöd die Tür aufzulassen vor allem bei ABS, was ja etwas mimosig bei Zugluft reagiert...

What about the depth needed by the ender 3, it is around 63 cm for the printer and IKEA Lack has a depth of 55 cm
Does it work fine or you have to open doors for large pieces?

the deep is for me enough, so the biggest for me to print was 200x200mm and it works fine

Okay, but technically it is not enough, right? Do you have a solution for that? I'd like to make an enclosure but am struggling with what size, the Ikea Lack tables seem really useful and make things easier, but I'm not sure if it's a good idea if they are too small. (I don't have my printer yet, but am planning for the enclosure)
Thanks ;)

Then buy yourself a printer first and look at this. If I want to print larger, I take a larger printer, or split the objects into several parts.

What about the depth needed by the ender 3, it is around 63 cm for the printer and IKEA Lack has a depth of 55 cm
Does it work fine or you have to open doors for large pieces?

Comments deleted.

How tall is you printer? Is this ok for CR 10s

The Ender 3 is all about 460mm high and in the lower case i have 540mm space.

how thick is your plexiglas?

hi. the Plexiglas is all about 5mm thick. but you can use 4mm or maybe 3mm.
i become this plexi from a friend for nothing ;-)

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Vielen Dank für die Bereitstellung!
Was mir aber nicht klar ist, wie hast du die Scharniere befestigt?
Auf beiden Seiten, also Holz und Plexiglas.
Habe versucht es auf den Bildern zu sehen. Aber ist leider nicht möglich.

Habe die Bilder jetzt mit eingefügt. Sind ganz hinten dran

Ja gerne. Auf den Bildern ist das echt schlecht zu erkennen.
Die Scharniere an der Plexiglas Seite ist mit M4 Schrauben und Muttern befestigt.
Und an der Holzseite einfach mit 2 Senkkopfschrauben. Ich hatte da nen ganzen Beutel Torx T20 glaube 3x16 rumliegen.
Die habe ich auch für die ganzen Füße benutzt um sie an den Böden festzuschrauben.

Mache nachher nochmal ein paar Foto´s dazu!

Vielen Dank!
Bilder wären da sehr hilfreich.

How tall is your set up fully assembled?

it is 1080mm high!

Awesome, Thank you

are you not worried about power supply in enclosure?

For printing ABS is a good temperature to have it INSIDE the case

this will greatly reduce the life of the power supply they dont like heat

Printed risers for top and bottom. But the 2 small screws are unsufficient to hold the legs to the table. They go thru the thin cardboard, so will not hold. need some screw going into the solic wood block at the corner. The frame on my tables are very narrow, likely no more than 1 cm, so I can't screw into that.

I used 4x16mm screws to fix the risers on each side. It works very great. Try it.

My IKEA LACK is like this:
That means no more than 20mm max chipboard around the edge.
The holes to hold the leg extensions to the table are more than 20mm from the edge, so will go into thin air.

Holding them on the lower table is not a problem, as there will be only sideways forces. But againg it should be screwed into the corner block, stretching like 50+mm from the corner. So somewhere in the solid area. One or 2 screw holes from inside going a bit diagonal would be fine.

I was also thinking that the design could be optimized for less plastic. Justs a cross, or an x and + inside the square, to divide it in 8. Or a square hole. Or larger hole. Not sure if a round hole is the fastest to print, or most effective for this purpose.

Used 3.5x35mm. I have only air Beyond the plate. Made a round hollow stick With 3 screw
Holes near the big hole. Works perfekt. I thin the border is 10mm only on my new table.
Now putting on sides. Using foam board for 3 sides. Clear plastic on last.

i work in a glass factory... any reason i shouldn't use glass instead of plexi glass?

glass would transfer the heat out faster (better conductor). You want the walls to insulate, to make the air hotter; so glass would be worse. Unless you double pane it.

hi. ich think you should use smaller thickness of Glass doors and maybe more infill for the hinges or 3 hinges for one side. it means the weight of glass is more then plexi

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Thanks. The Plexiglas are 540mm x 445mm for the Main enclosure

What dimensions are needed for the glass/plexi for the main enclosure?

Yes. I used 10x5mm magnets in the risers and 10x2mm magnets for the doors.

the other plates are MDF/ HDF in 5mm thickness

How do you keep doors closed? Using magnets?
Thanks a lot

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

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