TEVO Tornado and CR-10 belt driven dual Z mod with braces

by PeroE30 Sep 8, 2018
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I printed the gantry plate and it's slightly off for the 2018 "Gold" Tornado. I've attached a pic, but hard to see. It's like 2.5mm off and I'm unable to fit the top/bottom screws. If I extend the y in my slicer, it will skew the holes a bit...do you think that will be an issue?

Do you have a good source for the leadscrews? And any way to list out the specific type and also the length for the threaded support rods?

I am trying to understand few things about this design (the same which were not clear on the original one)...

1) both leadscrews end above the upper edge of the frame. How do you achieve that witzh the original leadscrew? Isn't it too short?
2) the right-side leadscrew does not have its lower end fixed in place in any way, right? So if your X gantry is elevated to a sufficient height, this leadscrew would start moving, maybe even vibrating... Any such effects noticed? Also, since it is supposed to carry 50% of the weight of the X gantry, wouldn't it be better to use a bearing to support the lead screw, instead of putting all of this weight onto a printed part?
3) what is the actual difference between this remix and the original design?

Hi, I replaced both leadscrews just to be sure they are the same but you can use the original leadscrew on the right side without any problem (long enough).
I haven’t noticed any vibration when moving. It is loaded with half of the gantry weight so it shouldn’t vibrate. It is crucial to align all the parts as mentioned in the description!
Don’t worry, the upgrade is designed to put 8/16/5 bearings inside both top holders to support leadscrews.
The difference is in top and bottom holders and there are also some minor changes in leadscrew fixation design.
Hope you will like it ;)


just thinking...
1) I am going to replace both lead screws, too because all 2mm pitch screws I was able to find have a delivery time of about a month or more, therefore I will replace them by TR8x1.5 (1.5mm pitch) screws from Motedis. The question is: aren't 500mm enough then? The original lead screw has 500mm
2) I am assuming for now the distance between the [center of] the right lead screw and the Z profile is 20mm (likely same as on the left side, 'cos you are not replacing the Z stepper attachment, and the upper attachments are the same). Meaning I should be able to put a "standing bearing" (https://www.motedis.com/shop/Dynamik-Lineareinheiten/Stehlager-KP/Stehlager-8mm-KP08::5357.html) on the lower end of the right lead screw with a 5.7mm adapter plate (the holes in this bearing attachment have a distance of 36mm according to their CAD schematics, while I need 20mm distance to fix it onto a 2040 profile). This should add additional stability and - which is more important - allow more precise positioning. On the downside, this means I have to use a 540mm screw there (since I need to have the lower end way below the heat bed in order not to collide with it). Gonna post it as remix I think
3) Gonna take these pulleys: https://www.motedis.com/shop/Dynamik-Lineareinheiten/Zahnriemen-und-Zahnraeder/Typ-GT2-6mm/GT2-Riemenscheibe-50-Zaehne-8mm-Bohrung-fuer-6mm-Riemen::4522.html. Since they are a bit smaller (50 vs. 64 teeth) than yours, I will likely need to construct some sort of tensioner with the idler pulley (which I will also likely take ready-made).

Hmmm, on a second thought: for "2)": I might even be able to take https://www.motedis.com/shop/Dynamik-Lineareinheiten/Flanschlager/Flanschlager-8mm-Druckguss-KFL08::5213.html, take only the bearing and print an attachment plate for it to attach it to the "bottom" 2040 profile. Yes, I like this idea even more because it seems more rigid (and this is what we are fighting here for - the more rigid, the better) than attaching it to the Z frame. Yeah, looks like I'm gonna need a 580mm lead screw on the right side.

I understand you would like to make 3D printer construction as rigid as possible to achieve better positioning but this machine wasn’t meant to be so accurate. (as you can see, belts are used to position X and Y axis instead of ball screws just to reduce price.)
The upgrade was also designed to greatly improve z axis positioning and squareness of Z axis at the lowest cost possible. Keep in mind that adding additional bearing could add friction to rotating parts…
If you would like to spend some money on upgrades, I will suggest you to go direct drive with E3D all-metal hotend with pancake stepper motor, buy bl-touch (setting firmware to use UBL) and print Petsfang Direct for E3D(https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2907538)

Petsfang Direct for E3D Titan Direct Extruder for Micro Swiss/ E3Dv6/ or Stock CR10 & Tevo Tornado hot ends
by dpetsel

Well, this machine is actually already more rigid and precise than some others :)
I already have an all-metal hotend (I went for Micro-Swiss though), bltouch (no ubl though, I am running Klipper right now) and also have switched from stock to Petsfang long ago. Not going for a direct extruder though since I don't want additional weight on X carriage (which is belt driven).
As for friction... though you are generally right, I think the frictin a bearing adds is neglectible since it is directly opposing the Z stepper. Besides that, the friction is currently low enough in my machine that with a powed off motor, I just need to tap with one finger on the X gantry to get it moving downwards.
Last but not least, having a second point of attachment on the right-side leadscrew should allow much easier positioning (they absolutely need to be parallel, after all, or the friction is gonna be your least problem).

I'll post a remix once I am done (which will take a while, I don't have that much time).

As for the cost: I ordered the materials today; the overall cost of them is about 54€. The most expensive part (24€) are the lead screw nuts. I am pretty sure that ordering parts at Aliexpress or Banggood would have been cheapter, but their delivery times are amazing (30 days and more), so I went for a regular shop. The overall cost of "extra" parts I ordered is 17€ (14€ for the pulleys and 3€ for that bottom bearing), so that's still reasonable. Again, could have been cheapter if I was not so impatient ;)

When posting the remix, I will also post the "Bill of materials" - everyone can then decide by themselves whether they go that extra mile or not :)

Ok, so you are not new to Tornado world... :D The Y axis with bed attached is already very heavy. I know, that with direct drive setup you have to lower the jerk settings and acceleration but, at the end the settings for X and Y axis will be the same ;) I prefer extrusion precision over speed.
I am glad you will post some new upgrades on thingiverse! :) We need creative people!

My Y drive is even heavier, since I have an Ultrabase on my printbed. However, a direct drive extruder wouldn't affect Y settings, it would only affect X settings - and I would have to reduce jerk and accel there. Plus, not sure whether I will be able to still use the entire height with that setup.
I was actually thinking of replacing the Y drive by a lead screw, but that's an entirely another project and I am not convinced yet (pro is more precision, cons are I'd need to switch back to endstops again and will also probably lose much speed...).

Can you upload a list with the quantity of the files, we have to print?

Ok, done. Sorry for the late reply.