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Hiob

Letter-Cryptex

by Hiob Sep 8, 2018
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How many springs am I supposed to print out for a 10 letter box? 10 as well or 30 of them?

making by printing as the rest!

What are the dimensions of the largest part? Can I print this in 120x120x120? Is there a smaller version?

Hopefully you will be able to read the size of stl files yourself! Simply load into your slicer or into another program such as "3D-Builder" (Windows)!

And yes, with your printer, you can print this in 120x120x120!
And no, there is not a smaller version… if you want it to have smaller, you have to scale down it by yourself!
But there are versions with more ore less letter-rings:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3151555

Happy printing!

Modifications for Letter-Cryptex
by Hiob

I too had absolutely no luck with this. the tollerances are so tight. i think i need to run one of makers muse's tolerance checkers to see in what ballpark my tolerances are on my current setup.

If you have problems with the dimensions and all will not fit good make this test and recalibrate your slicer:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1622868

Fast edge over/under extrusion test

I had no luck with this model although I printed parts of it several times. No matter how well I sanded the wheels only few of them turned when the cylinder was inserted. The tolerances are very low. In addition you cannot change the combination later because the core is glued. And unfortunately it is very hard to pull out the cylinder because it is only a very thin disc you need to pull and not the entire right part with the arrow. Thanks for you effort with the design but I had nothing but despair with it.

If you have problems with the dimensions and all will not fit good make this test and recalibrate your slicer:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1622868

Fast edge over/under extrusion test

As far as I can see from the post-print instructions, the right side with the arrow on it is just screwed onto the "tube" part (the one with the sprints). So once you removed the core, you can unscrew the right side and slide the letter-rings off the tube part. I agree, the right "pull" part seems pretty hard to grab because it's small.

Hi,
Thanks for this module
Just completed to print all parts (was a long process). Now I'll assemble it.
One request for future versions, is it possible to add one more "letter" an empty one so I could define two words code
I'll post photos of my finished Cryptobox when finished.
Thanks

Hey!
Here you can find a „Blano_Letter_Ring“ without Letters:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3151555/files

Modifications for Letter-Cryptex
by Hiob

WOW, Thanks. I wanted an empty slot so it will not revel the code is two letters, but this will work great also.
Thanks will print it today.

Hallo

mega coole Box, sehr tollen Effekt mit der Wachs Paste. Hab ne Spray Dose genommen, Finde das Result nicht schlecht. STänder ist momentan am drucken. Weiter so tolle Idee.
Bilder folgen

Cool geworden!

This is a nice design. So I decided to make one.
But I need a ring with numbers, so I had to get busy using my limited skills in Fusion360.
As I dont have access to the original design files, it's an approximation.
It's about 1 millimetre larger than the original ones, but it fits the inner rings.
If you want the Fusion files, drop me a note.

Edit: Here it is finally done in copper filament.

Hey so first off awesome design from you and the the original creator I decided to go with your model and so far everything is printing out fantastically except for the springs. Seeing that you still have this as a work in progress I was wondering if you could make a way to print the springs a little easier like adding gates connecting a couple (5-10) together because the problem I am having is, since they are so small the springs easily get pulled off mid-print whether I do 1 at a time or multiple at a time, or does anyone who may have encountered this problem have a decent solution? I do use kapton tape so sticking to the bed is usually not an issue I run into too often.

Honestly, I would not know any other or better way for the springs! The springs are already delicate, that's true, but they can be easily printed if you use Raft! I print raft with a distance of 0.15 mm between raft and object!

This is an amazing project.... I'm making it as a gift for a friend... They'll have to guess the code word for the second part of their gift... the great thing is the code word is changeable!

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Funktioniert es wieder oder wird es noch bearbeitet? Gruß

?
Hat eigentlich immer funktioniert!

How did you color it ? Which type of colors ? (Link to get it please If possible)

This is fantastic!! I love everything I'm seeing here and I really want to build one now. I might adapt the design a little bit and I'll share some info and pics along the way. Absolutely fantastic work.

Thank you very much! The main thanks go to MasonStonehenge, who designed the original file! I just made a remix of it!

I want to know because I don't know how to scale the things, would you please provide dimensions in the comment/description please.

What is the wall thickness for the outer rings excluding the letters @Hiob

You can read out the wall thickness in the attached pictures!

Here's another tip: with the Windows program "3D Builder" you can quickly and easily measure such things! The program is usually already installed on your PC!

"If someone has a great idea for numbers, symbols or other accessories ... just let me try it ... if I have the time!.".....It would be great to use the symbols of the stargate movie. https://goo.gl/images/FHL9G6

That's more than 26 symbols! This is not possible, because the rings are designed for 26 characters (like the ABC)! Sorry!

ooohh, my maths stink. thanks anyway, I made the criptex and it came out perfect. ... best regards from Buenos Aires

thanks for this nice project, takes many hours but all seems to fit perfect.

Comments deleted.

I've scaled this almost 200% and have 0 issue with Hiobs files. I had some minor issues with my printer, but that's on me. Only patience involved is waiting for the prints to finish. The whole thing came together with little effort, and assembly seemed pretty straight forward. I didn't even realize Hiob had instructions.

I'm fairly new to 3d printing, but not with prototyping and manufacture. With any kind of production, test prints for test fits are absolutley necessary. No way would I blindly print everything. First print Inner and outer cores, then the retainer and back end. Springs next, one set, and the encoder ring. Fit the springs and then the encoder ring to see if it all goes together smoothly. If not make some small adjustments in your slicer and then refit. I made one small adjustment to compensate for a problem with my printer and printed the rest of the rings and springs. Perfect fit.

Only thing I'd say is this project is really designed for really dialed in printers. Which mine isn't 100%, but was able to make necessary adjustments to compensate.

Even if it is a waste of time for me, I like to comment on your factual remark!
Over 40 people have already successfully printed the Letter Cryptex! Since you seemingly can not do this, of course the files and especially the instructions are very bad! That you should possibly report Thingiverse, so that everything will be deleted! If you want something absolutely perfect, look out for platforms where you have to pay for stl files and where the uploaders do it professionally and not at the impulse to share their hobby with others and make their things available to others put!
Well, as mentioned above, many other hobby 3D printers and I had no problems ... what could that be?
Nobody, really nobody will stop you from throwing everything in the trash!

Do you know, if there are any problems with scaling? I would like to make one scaled down to 70%.

I know one person who scaled down to 80% without problems! Try first the smallest parts, the springs! If you can scale them down to 70% and print without problems, the rest parts will be make no problems too!

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

This is fantastic, and looks to print quite well. I'm actually looking to make one of these as a container to hold a gift. BUT, I need the final piece to be about 16" - 18" long with a 3.5" - 4" diameter. Is it possible to print several of these and link them together to make a longer piece? Or would significant work be needed to make something like this work? I have very little modeling skills, but I love messing around in meshmixer. I can plane cut with the best of them :)

Have I understood that correctly? In the end, the Cryptex should be over 40 cm long and have a diameter of about 10 cm?

Yep! I'm looking for an internal storage length of about 46cm and an internal diameter of 10cm.

Since you'll probably best and easily the individual parts you need with the Meshmixer or with your slicer program scale up!
Everything depends of course on how many letters your Cryptex should have at the end!
Of course, at the end you have to scale the springs analogously too!

This model is fantastic!! I am having a blast printing this!!!! The springs were a little tricky, but not much of an issue that some scaling tweaks couldn't fit.

I've been trying to design a retainer without the threading with horrible results. Limit of my knowledge. Would it be possible, maybe, if you'd be willing create a retainer without the screws. The same retainer piece, but one that just slides over the end piece? If not, totally understand.

Amazing job on this non the less. I can't wait to post pictures of it!!

If I find time, I will do it! The problem will be to be able to fix the retractor correctly!

Yeah, kept getting myself into a loop of modding which would just end up ruining the piece. Sent some pics of what I am doing. Going to use the retainer on the opposite end. Was trying to get it to just easily move over the outer tube. My encoder rings aren't quite perfect, so having that retainer be able to move down as far as I want is what I was trying to do. The end cap is easily adjustable after that.

Gosh i love this project. By far the best design I've run into since starting 3d printing!!

and no rush, absolutely NO rush. I'm still a solid 2 weeks out from finishing all the printing! hehe

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Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App
Comments deleted.

Can you help me? The inner tube it's 5mm shorter that what i need. Can you tell me how to make it taller?
Thanks!

It would be great if you link your remix to my original (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3074829) - Seeing all the makes and pictures would definitely encourage me to make new objects in future especially seeing how popular it became!

10 letter Cryptex

Hey!
Your "10 letter Cryptex" is linked from the beginning as "Remixed From"!
But I still like to add a link in addition to "Summary" if you wish!
Looking forward to see new designs from you!

Thingiverse might have been screwy - it didn't show any remixes until the Ingress! Now it shows yours too!
What programs do you use to remix - are you interested in Iges or Step files?
I love the step-by-step instructions - well done! All the best. :)

after some finagling I finally discovered why the retainer was pinching the outer core and making it impossible to slot the inner core in. If you examine the inside of the retainer you will discover a small lip towards the outside facing side of the retainer. This pushes down on the outer edge of the screw causing the outer core to pinch inwards making it difficult to insert the core.This small half screw like lip is the reason why some makers out here are having issues inserting the inner core.

I took some wirecutters and carefully snipped the remnants away not the entire outside flat face just the lip. and was able to easily insert the inner core.

Hiob instead of cutting the screw in half and flattening the edge to give the open face a nice finish you could remove this last lip while keeping the flatness on the outside face.

As already mentioned several times, with me it works without problems! If you look at the original source ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3074829 ), this place described by you is even more pronounced! Originally, I also had problems with this job myself, so I edited it as it is now, so the parts fit neatly. But if it is desired, I would like to be able to completely remove this lip completely and provide it as a separate retrainer-ring!

10 letter Cryptex

Hi Hiob, i too am another one with the retaining lip causing problems, cutting it off is absolutely fine, so would be amazing if you could provide a replacement retrainer for those of us with really perfect tolerance! The rest of the item all print perfectly, go together perfectly, are the perfect length, it just screws up a little too tight and then can't fit the internal part in :) Thanks

when I'm home later, I put in the modifications a retrainer available, which has a slightly larger inner diameter! In these modifications is already a Retrainer without stop! The problem may be eliminated!

Here are the modifications:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3151555

Modifications for Letter-Cryptex
by Hiob

Legend, thanks i just spotted that in your other build! Thanks i will try that :)

I have now added another retrainer-file to the modifications! The file is called "Retrainer_larger_inside_diameter"!
Maybe this helps!

Hello Hiob I plan on printing this very soon, but I have a question of how big is the cryptex when done? Like how long is it and also whats the diameter for the tube? I wish to know as the length will determine which letter amount modification I use.

Hello!
How big the letter-cryptex will be depends on which parts you use for the compilation!
If you print the "standard version", the Letter-Cryptex has an outer diameter of 74.7 mm and a total length of about 155 mm.
The innermost core of the Letter-Cryptex has an inside diameter of about 43 mm and a total length of about 112 mm.
For every letter you add (10 letters are the standard), you must add 10.1 mm. For every letter that you take away, you have to subtract 10.1 mm!
Tip: if you want to measure stl, this is easy! Simply load it with the Windows program (usually already installed on your PC) "3D Builder" and use the "Measure" option. So you can quickly measure the distance between two points quickly and easily!

Greetings

Thank you Hiob, it never occurred to me to measure on meshmixer or the 3Dbuilder. Given the dimensions you gave me the standard size should work for me, and I will print with that. If I decide I want to change the size later, I'll print from the modified versions. Thank you for the help!

Comments deleted.

Is it possible to get your working file for the blank ring to make custom ring creation easier?

You can find the "blanco_ring" here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3151555

Modifications for Letter-Cryptex
by Hiob

I think I found a small error on the inner core. The right side seems a little short. Both the little tab and the part that is to insert into the Right Side are short maybe 2 mm. It's short about the thickness of the lip on the retaining ring so maybe this thickness was not account for during model creation. It's not off much but enough to make the alignment incorrect if you fully insert the core into the Right Side so the tab sits flush. I found this to be the case for the 10 letter and 5 letter. All my other parts fit correctly so I don't think it is printer settings. Anyone else find this?

Well, whether that is a mistake is a matter of opinion! If you look at the pictures in "Post-Printing", which will guide you through the assembly process, you may find that the Inner_Core is inserted first and then the right side is attached to the Inner_Core with glue!
A gap of almost two millimeters is intended to compensate for any uncleanliness in the Letter_rings and encoding_rings!
So, if you glue the Inner_Core directly to the right side of the attack, it may actually come to the error you described!
If desired, I can adjust the groove in the right side accordingly, so that the Inner_Core can not be introduced so deep, or alternatively extend the Inn_Core accordingly! However, then there is the danger that in "uncleanliness in the printing" these can not be compensated!

Sorry for my bad English! I have to use google-translate for the translation!

I understand. Thanks for your explanation.

Hi Hiob.

I thoroughly enjoyed printing and assembling your design. The springs are clever, the adjustable rings with the screw-on retainer are also clever. I also appreciate your modeling choices to make the design printable without supports -- which I consider to be a big advantage.

I sliced it in Slic3r 1.41.0+ (Prusa version) without any problems at all. I sliced at 0.2mm with 20% infill and no supports. I had no issues with the springs and no issues with the screw top.

I'll post my make after I attempt the wax finish you described.

I'm replying this this specific comment thread because I have a suggestion about the length of the inner tube on the right hand side. You stated in your reply above that you left a 2mm gap to compensate for printing issues, but I'd like to recommend that you reduce this margin to 1mm (meaning make the inner tube 1mm longer). With the rings in the locking rotation, my inner tube protrudes only about 1mm (see photo), which is not enough to securely glue into the right side cover. I've considered other assembly variations, but the relationship seems to be determined by the inner tube, the outer tube, a ring in the lock position, and the screw-on end. Nothing on the left-side is involved in this relationship.

Again, I really enjoyed your design.

EDIT: I found that I could edit the STL file in Fusion360. I'm attaching an STL file for an inner tube that has been extended 2mm to the right in case anyone else encounters the same issue.

I believe your extension of the inner core is likely the best solutions. Potentially additional versions of the retainer could be created from original file to offset the arrow and inner core insert gap 90 degrees and maybe 180 degrees to allow a perfect tight fit. I'm printing your stl right now in hopes it solves this main issue for me. Thank you for providing it!

EDIT: I'm wondering if our issue is related to over extrusion as your extended version is still a bit too short for me. It appears that each set of letters is ever so slightly too wide. By the time we get to the Retainer ring we are unable to tighten it enough before it resets into a greatly loosened state. And the inner core is now sitting down farther down within the outer core (which unfortunately is where it needs to be for the letters to move freely). This makes it impossible for at least I to even adhere the "Vers_A_Right_Side".

I went ahead and made a slightly longer extended version (just over 1mm in additional length). I'll provide it here just in case someone else needs even more additional length added to the inner core. The slot on the inner core is a tight fit on the "Vers_A_Right_Side" notch which will allow testing of the length prior to gluing. Does require a little extra elbow grease to pop it on though.

Thanks, I didn't know it is possible :) printing this one on my Pursa mk3 hope it will be good :)

I was working on the same edit to extend the inner core. Thanks for doing the work! I'll be making the edit to the 5 ring version shortly.

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Hiob, i must say you sir are a legend.

Love the multiple letter combination remix link you provided. I am extremely grateful for that.

Comments deleted.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

your files are corrupted and cant even be repaired with nettfab... pitty.

I and many many others have strangely no problems with the files and have already printed the Letter-Cryptex! Do you use as Slicer the program Slic3r? If so, there are seemingly problems that I can not understand! Sorry!

Hi! One question: it's possible to change the word's combination one that the cryptex is mounted?
Or one that you insert the ring you can't anymore change it?
Thanks!

Hi!
You can also change the password later!

Thanks Hiob!

Any possibility of just using small "bumps" instead of the springs on the outer cylinder?
I've found the springs to be very difficult to get in place, and then they keep breaking as the letter rings turn.
They seemed to print too long, and I had to cut them down

This is quite the precision test - if you have any "Elephant foot" on your prints you'll have to sand it out to get everything to fit.

Have to confirm the springs are kind of hard - uneven and breaking when moving the rings... a bumby solution would be better

Many many others and I have strangely no problems with the springs! Actually, they are easy to print and perform wonderfully in Letter-Cryptex!
Anyway, feel free to come up with a solution! The stl files are released for modification!

Another alternative ring in case numbers, text and food icons aren't enough :) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3163010

Cryptex smiley icon letter ring
by bsr81
Comments deleted.

ok that makes more scents now but i still don't get how to set it up maybe a build vid??? i would love to see that i think i would be very help full to every one who has questions

Realy sorry! But i have not time at the moment to make a video!
You can see all steps for making in "Thing Details" under "Post-Printing" (you have to scroll down)!

I made a fun alternative to the letter rings using food icons in case anyone's interested in something different :) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3159143

Cryptex food icon letter ring
by bsr81

May be a silly question but do you need 10 encoding rings?

For the 10 letter version yes!
For each letter of the codeword (Letter_Ring) you need one Encoding_Ring!

can this be customized for different passwords because i have no clue what or how to set up or understand how it works

Yes! You can use any password or codeword! You can also change the password later!
The password (single letter) you create with the encoding-ring and the letter-ring!

Why so many featured items now on thingiverse

Why? Because I am always written with various requests if I can do this or that! For example the Cryptex with only 8 letters or with 13 letters and so on! Therefore!!!

Stunning project! Very well engineered file. I have just the letter rings left to print and so far the fit is perfect. I tried to build one of these out of PVC pipes after the DaVinci Code book came out years ago. I never got it quite right. So now is my chance to build one again! Thanks.

is the outer shell supposed to fit into the left side? I cannot fit it in and they are about 0.5mm in size difference

Hi!
It worked for me and many others who completed the project so far!
No idea why it does not fit with you from the dimensions!
So sorry!

Maybe again check your printer settings, especially the leveling! Or mechanically (grind) tackle the problem!

I looked closer at it and saw that it printed the first four layers to wide for some reason. I just sanded it out. Thank you for the suggestions, though!

Hi Hiob, many thanks for your amazing Cryptex! If it can be useful to someone, I have made the holder for it>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3154564
UPDATE: added a vertical version ;)

Cryptex (by Hiob) holders

maybe you can try 'PETG' instead of pla. The petg is more flexible....

I can't get the printed springs to work. They just break when they bend. I am using PLA. Any suggestions? Different material perhaps?

Shouldn't be a problem with PLA, but of course every filament brand can be a bit different. Try a different PLA, maybe even different color (the springs are invisible anyway).

I had the same problem. I just took a sanding block and sanded down the top of the outer core a little at a time until the retainer ring did not drag on the top of the outer core as it was tightened to align the groove with the teeth.

Thanks for the tip! Hiob was kind enough to send me a new version of the retainer that is supposed be just a bit bigger on the inside, and I'm printing it right now to see if it helps. If not - I'll try your method.

Thank you for this beautiful design!
I printed everything and it printed perfectly, I just have one (big) problem. When screw the retrainer and tight it, the outer core part becomes too tight for the inner core to slide in. Before I tight it, there's no problem. Once I tight it to align the two arrows together, the inner core just doesn't fit in, it's like one millimeter too large or something like that. Any suggestions?

Honestly, I have no idea why it does not work for you! What I can offer you is that I make the retrainer with a slightly larger inside diameter! Give me your e-mail address via PM, then I'll send you the stl if you want! I can not guarantee if it works!

Hiob - That's incredibly kind of you to offer that! I'll send you my email address via PM.
Another option, btw, instead of changing the inner diameter of the retainer, would be to offset the arrow and the 'socket' in which the teeth of the inner core should slide in just a bit counter clockwise, something like the angle of 3-4 letters. That's the point in which I feel that the retainer starts to squeeze the inner core. But that's just an idea, whatever is easier to you, you definitely know better what has more chances to work. :)
Thanks again!

This is one of the nicest designs and I am very impressed with how well everything prints and fits together until I got to the very last step and am having the exact same issue as tlp612. I believe the problem could be that you recommend "2-k glue" and I am not familiar with that term. I used CA Glue and I'm guessing that 2-k glue might be two part epoxy (much thicker fluid) and maybe that takes up more room in the joints, thus the parts can't fit together as tightly and firmly as when using CA glue?

Because of this, I believe my outer tube is seated a bit farther in than yours and I know for sure that my inner tube is as well (because I forgot that you show gluing it on AFTER completion and I glued it first..). Thus my entire cryptex is "shorter" than yours causing it to fit too tightly when screwing it together. This causes the threads start compressing the outer tube in order to allow the last 1/4 turn or so?

Were you ever able to help tlp612 with an alternate design for the Retainer piece? If not, would you be willing to send me your original file so that I can edit in Fusion 360 and try to make it bottom out a millimeter or so earlier?

Right now I'm stuck with the most beautiful Cryptex but I can neither spin the rings when the Retainer is fully seated, nor can I get the inner tube to slide in because the slot has been squeezed together too tightly!

Hello hackoholic,

Hiob was kind enough to send me another retainer, a bit wider on the inside, but unfortunately it didn't help.
What did help, however, was that I remove 0.4mm from the retainer's height, on the side that faces the letter rings.
If you want, you can PM me your email and I'll send you the stl file that worked for me. Hope it will help you as well. :)

I guess we think alike. I was able to get the STL into Fusion 360 and use some mesh tools to cut off 2mm on the same side you did. I am printing as we speak and will see if it solves my problem. Did you happen to use CA when building yours (like I did)?

Sorry, what's CA? Probably something obvious, but can't figure it out at the moment... :))
In any case, I actually used Slic3r to cut the module, but I removed just 0.4mm. At least in my case, even that was just a bit too much, making it a bit loose, but it works great, so I didn't even try to cut less than that.

Cyanoacrylate (Super-Glue). Reducing the Retrainer piece to 10mm from 12mm seemed to do the trick for me and I can now insert the inner tube. But... because the outer tube is shorter, I'm having issues getting the left most letters to turn and the last letter ring isn't even engaging the bumps so I'm going to reprint the inner tube and the left end and glue it together as sloppily as I can (leave lots of gap between parts) to see if that allows the letter rings to work better.

Oh, CA is the glue type... yes, I did use CA glue. I'm not sure that's the cause though, in my case...

I am about to start printing this. But from experience on other prints that wouldn't lock in. I would recommend to just sand one or a few pieces down to where it locks in place.

I thought to make the inner tube just a bit thinner, so it will slide in, but couldn't do it on the stl file. My 3D designing skills aren't that great, so maybe it isn't supposed to be too hard, but I didn't manage to do it.

hi ya'll, how many of which ones please?
thanks!

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Just incredible! This is the perfect dice box.

I have one question, is 2-K glue 2 part epoxy? That's what I get for results when I search for it.

Thanks!

Yes, that is right!
Of course you can also use another glue!

it appears the B ring is just the right end cap again. Can you re-load that file? Is it the same as the A with fingernail slots?

What exactly do you mean by "b-ring"? There is no file called "b-ring"!
I've just checked all the files and can not find a mistake!
So far you are the first and only one who reports such a problem!
So I might need more specific information!

I'll look at the problem tonight! I can not do it before!

Comments deleted.

is the letter ring for type A the same as it is for type B?

Yes it is!

Thank you. This is an amazing design!

Cool design. You should make a version with Stargate symbols.

Good idea! If I find time for it, I will surely do it!

Any chance to get this with nordic runes instead of latin letters? Or a tip how to accomplish that? I tried to open the ring in blender but its kind of hard to get the letters out of the ring because of the boolean artifacts. Could I have the ring without the letters?

Best regards,
Isa

Hi Isa!

I wanted to do runes myself once! So if you can be patient, I'll do it sometime! But if you can not wait, just send me your email address via PM, then I'll send you the ring without symbols (blanco) as a stl file!

Stefan

After reprinting both the outer core and left side piece (version A) I'm still encountering the issue of a sizable gap when all the letters are positioned onto the cryptex. If anyone else encounters this issue, I'd be super grateful for any advice on how they fixed it.

Can it be that the retrainer can be screwed on one more turn?

Looks like me in the picture anyway!

Hi Hiob,

having the same issue...
Printed everything with the same settings on an Ender 3...
The parts fit nicely together, the thread works perfectly but there's a gap...
any idea?

I really have no plan! I really do not know why there is such a huge gap in your Cryptex! For me and the many others who have previously printed the letter cryptex, it has worked well!
It seems to me that the core parts are not sitting properly in the side parts!

Are you German? I ask because you have called the pictures with "Bild"! If yes, you are welcome to write German with me!

Hi again,

what's the thickness of one disc? The gap is "only" 5,2mm, so 0,5mm slimmer disks could make the difference...
I will try printing a disk with a raft again and look at the difference.
I'm Austrian, but still in english for all our non german speaking friends ;)

With disc do you mean a letter-ring? One has 10 mm! The inner core and the outer core are dimensioned so that they have 10.1 mm per letter ring! This ensures smooth running!

I've been trying that,however, whenever I attempt to screw it any more, there's this popping sound and the outer core expands as retrainer sort of loosens. Basically I can spin it forever and after a certain point it never gets any tighter. I tried reprinting the retrainer and and encountered the same issue.

That's really strange! I'm honestly baffled! I have printed the letter-cryptex three times and there have never been any problems! Others have also printed the letter cryptex and no one has reported such problems!
Have you ever printed the source file? Are there the same problems?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3074829

10 letter Cryptex

I have not tried printing that version, thank you so much for the link!!

When I ultimately figure out what's going wrong (since your design is too awesome to simply give up on) I'll make sure to let you know where I messed up and how I fixed it! Thank you again for taking the time to help!!

You are welcome!

Hi again!! I just finished assembling my model and wanted to update you on my success!! I ended up expanding the inner diameter of the retrainer so it could slide over the right side instead of being screwed on.

I also had some difficulty with the interior (definitely NOT the fault of your design, just my printer), as when flush inside the cryptex itself, some of the rings wouldn't turn, as they collided with the teeth on the interior. I solved this by finding a place where all the rings could spin freely (the interior had to be sticking out approximately 10mm) and then just reprinted another retrainer to glue on top of the first one, making it flush!

Thank you again for all of your help, and for making such an incredible design available to all of us!!

hello ajfilmnfx i have the same issue as you, i have printed 2 so far and both ties there is a gap on the end towards the retainer side. do you happen to have the stl for the one that you printed? and how also did you put it together i see the picture you posted but i cant seem to figure out how you did it.

Gah, sorry to hear you're having problems, let's see if I can help! :)

Here's the stl!!

The way I put the cryptex together was by carving out the interior of the original retrainer so that it no longer screwed in, but instead just slid onto the cryptex. I literally used a knife to cut away at the retrainer's "hole" so the threading disappeared and the entire hole was wide enough to slide down to cover the gap.

When I was done cutting, it looked a bit rough, so don't worry about that, all that's important is that it can go down far enough to cover the gap. And to do so, it CAN'T screw in (I tried a million times, it didn't work) hence why you need to widen the hole and get rid of the threads as best as you can.

After making sure the interior could still move in and out properly, I dabbed superglue around the retrainer.

However, this then led to the issue that the "right side lid", wouldn't sit flush against the first retrainer (since it was now located further down on the cryptex), which is why I printer the second, skinnier retrainer to glue on top of the first one to make the "right side lid" be flush. Your mileage may vary with the height needed (I believe mine was 10mm tall when laying flat), but all you have to do is adjust the z size of the model (when it's laying flat) in your slicing software.

Hope this helps! And let me know if you have any more questions, I'm happy to do my best to answer them! :)

Good, that it worked somehow!

Very nice model indeed! May I ask how can I cut this to specific count of letters? (Using tinkercad to eg 5-6-7-8 letters)

Modifications for Letter-Cryptex
by Hiob

In principle quite simple! You have to cut out less than 10mm of inner_core and outer_core for each letter! For each letter you want more, just add 10mm! If you can wait, I'll make those variations!

Thanks :-) I will check it out, and maybe do a test ;-)

importat!!!!!!

How do you gun?

Sorry! My english is not the best! What do you mean?

Thanks for the response! Unfortunately, every time I bring that file across, I see it reports 60 errors, image included. I'll try S3D and see if that helps. Thanks!

Sorry to hear that!

Layer 29 of the letter ring tries to add a fill when I slice this in Slic3r Prusa Edition. Any ideas?

Sorry, i have no idea!
I use for slicing S3D and have no problems!

Hi! Are the springs glued in? If so, are they glued in on both ends? Thanks. Love the D&D ring buy the way.

Hey!

No, the springs also hold without being glued!

Ok. I'll be printing it in the next week or so. When I've got it all painted up I'll put up some pics. Thanks.

Comments deleted.

Can you talk a little about how you painted it? Looks very nice.

I used for painting Rub’n Buff!
It is a wax finishing and easy to use!
A little bit of it on the fingertip and then rub on the object!
That is all!

Great, thanks!

how to reduce it to 9 letters instead??

thanks a lot for the very fast response!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hi!

You have two options! If it's going to be instant, you have to do it yourself with a program (like Tinkercad)! The other possibility is that you patience until I have the time to redesign the Inner_core of the letter-cryptex to 9 letters!

May I help you do that? I would like versions with fewer letters in.

  • What program do you use?
  • May we have the source files?

Thank you for your offer! But everything has already been done many weeks ago! Everything you need can be found here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3151555

Modifications for Letter-Cryptex
by Hiob

really appreciate your hard work!!! <3

Hiob, this is a really awesome build! Would you be willing to design one with D&D 5e Dwarfish script for me that I can use in my D&D home brew campaign? I'd be willing to compensate you.

By the way! You are welcome!!!

Apologies, I have been out of town camping. But yes, than you so much! I am going to have so much fun using this in my campaign. I assume I can just substitute it for the ABC alphabet rings?

That's right! Just replace it!

Hi, I just printed the inner and outer shells, and the left and right side caps, and it looks like the left side cap is missing the arrow that is in the picture showing the start point for the cryptex. I have checked both the VA and VB left sides. Am I looking at the wrong files?

Hey!

Sorry! I made adjustments yesterday, forgetting to replace the arrow! I fixed the bug! Thanks for the hint!

Great thanks! I am also having trouble getting the springs in place. I used just regular PLA, and it feels too brittle ... do you have any tips for getting these set properly? Awesome model - I'm excited to finish the last few steps :)

I also use PLA and have no problems! Maybe experiment with the printing speed and the layer height!

Ok thanks - I am new to 3d printing and have only made a few (failed) experiments with ABS so was hoping that wasn't the solution! I have been using the default "Fine" settings in Cura for my printer (CR-10) - I will try adjusting the settings.

It's quite hard to print with ABS especially if you don't have a heated bed(If you have a heated bed then just try with settings), so I recommend to print with PLA at the start.

I had some success gently heating the springs before inserting them, but haven't had time to finish printing the letter rings yet.

I've put this build on hold and switched to print a Petsfang Bullseye which I'll install this evening. Apparently it makes a big difference to the CR-10's print quality. I'm also ordering a bed leveller because I'm never sure I have it exactly right, and the bed adhesion and first layer quality is significantly better on the few prints where I think it has been right.

I have a heated bed, but I think the ambient temperature in the room I print in is too low at the moment (from what I've read it's easier to print ABS when the temperature differential between the various parts of the model aren't too big.) I see Cura has the option to print with a heat shield, but that sounds like it uses a huge amount of filament.

And how do you set up the code word?

In order to adapt the respective letter, the encoding ring with the marked groove (see picture) must be attached so that it is directly under the desired letter!
And all of course with each of the 10 letters, so that the desired word is created!

Cool, thanks man!! Amazing design though!

Hey! Thanks so much for your design! It's awesome and I plan to use it in my DnD campaign. I was wondering, my version has a fairly large gap in the area between the rings and the side pieces. Did I assemble something incorrectly, or is is designed this way?

Thank you!

Sorry for the out of the blue question, but I'm having the EXACT same problem with my print (large gap on the right side of the assembled piece) and was wondering if you managed to figure out how to fix it.

I can only imagine that the connection between the core and the side panel was not properly assembled and then glued! As you can hopefully see, others have already printed the Letter-Cryptex and it worked just like mine! So sorry, I would not know how I could help!

No worries!! Thank you for taking the time to reply!! I'm going to try reprinting it with a raft instead of a brim, as I think will work. Additionally, thank you SO MUCH for making the design available to all of us!! It's absolutely amazing, and I can't wait to finish it!!!

As you can see in the pictures, the distances should actually be quite normal! Just so that the rings can still turn well! Maybe you did not properly connect the cores to the sides so they are bigger overall?

Comments deleted.

Hi, my inner core is just too tight? it needs a lot of strength to pull it out. Anyone else have that problem? Nice design by the way and nicely painted/waxes

Hi daKURT

You're the first one I hear he has such a problem! Maybe you should check your printer settings!
Good luck!!!!

Shame on you, why you do remix and dont link to original project? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1352055

Russian Letter Cryptex (4...8 rings)
by Dogm

Sorry, but shame on you, because you seem to be unable to read properly!

I've stated that it's a remix! I even wrote why!

And this is not a remix from the "Russian Letter Cryptex"! This is a remix from the "10 Letter Cryptex"!

Have a nice day!

Try print my thing - you will see difference between clicking mechanisms...

I see you have different gragger mechanism, so please forgive my reaction...

Can you upload a video of what it looks like opening it?

Hi,
Very cool design!
Printing it as we speak.
Is it possible for you to make a ring with numbers and symbols like: 1234567890-+!? etc?

Best regards,
Sven

In principle, I can do that! However, the ring has 26 areas to use! Which additional symbols for the numbers 0 to 9 should it be?

These for example: [email protected]#$%^&*()-+|/\ would be cool :)

Did you succeed in making the extra wheel?

Sorry! First i have mi time atm and second my 3D-printer is broken:(
Give me a little time!

I've printed it anyways, http://learn.colorfabb.com/cryptex/ have a look if you want to. :)

I have about half the pieces printed, but I'm having some problems with the outer core in Slic3r. The same part from the original design loads ok, but the program has a lot of trouble with your mesh. Any insight as to what may be wrong?

I had problems with outer core STL too. The STL file contains too many errors. I repaired the file using Netfabb. No problems using Slic3r after that.

That sounds strange! I have no problems with my slicer (S3D)! You are also the first to describe such a problem! Maybe you try another Slicer (Cura or S3D)?
So sorry!

Yes, I agree that it's odd. I can open the file in Fusion 360 and everything appears normal. It also looks good in Cura (though, that software isn't easily used with my printer).

Worst case, I'll do a quick remix to match the part. Thanks for the feedback (and the nice design).

Where did you source the springs?

The springs are printed by you!
The stl is here availble!

Rather than printing, I contemplated cutting the springs from an aluminum can. Thoughts?

Good idea! But is the material such that it always returns to its original position?

Ah, I missed that... :-)

Danke schön!

Great job! As for ideas: Predator symbols would be great! Movie is about to release =) https://i.pinimg.com/originals/c6/90/bf/c690bfba478452e4b9fb72cb1b72e7fc.png

Thats a cool finish you put on this (also cool design).