Files now include a new improved version of mask_cut_eyes.stl . I've printed and painted this mask and its a significant improvement on the solid eyes version especially for wearer visibility. It's the mask with the blonde hair in the pics.
This is original design Animego Kigurumi / Doller whole head mask for 3d printing, it’s supposed to look like a generic anime character, not any specific one.
It’s a big print. I’ve included 2 versions of the full mask, mask_cut_eyes.stl and mask_solid_eyes.stl. With the open eye’s version you’ll have to make and mount your eye pieces on the inside of the mask. This option allows you most customisation with vision slits and holes. The solid eye version allows you to print the eyes on paper and glue them on the top of the mask. There are vision slits on where the eyebrow and eye fold would go. This version is simpler to put together (and it’s the version I printed), but be warned, your actual vision with the mask on will be very very limited.
The mask is scaled to fit a large (61cm circumference) adult head, if you are smaller than that you might want to scale it down a little. But don’t go too far, you still have to get your head in it.
You can print the whole mask on a CR-10 or similar sized printer in one go, if you have a few days to spare. But if you don’t, I’ve provided a cut up front, top, bottom and back pieces which can be printed on something smaller and take less time. Actually what I would recommend you do is take the mask (mask_cut_eyes or mask_solid_eyes, which ever you prefer) and import them into Meshmixer (free from Autodesk) and cut it up as you see fit. I actually cut mine into 11 pieces because I didn’t want any part to take more than 7 hours to print (I don’t like leaving my printer on over night or while I’m at work), but that was probably a mistake, more parts = more seams to cover up when you’ve assembled it. Fewer parts will result in less post processing work.
There’s no registration between the parts and the walls are quite thin (2.5mm on average) so assembling the parts is quite tricky. Again another reason to use fewer of them
I printed all the parts on my Creality CR-10S in PrimaValue white PLA using layer heights between .2mm and .24mm. When slicing best set enough outer walls (4 inner and outer should do the trick) so it prints solid with no infill. If you print it solid it should be strong enough (as long as you don't drop it).
Supports will depending on how you cut it.
Printing tall thin walled pieces requires good bed adhesion, I printed with the bed heated to 60 degrees and coated with glue stick, I only had one print failure. If you can arrange it lie any seem you want to join on the bed, that will result in a much flatter surface to join the other parts to
Be prepared to do a lot of post processing, all the layer lines and seams should be eradicated.
I started with good quality 80-100 grit sandpaper, then up to 180, then filled in any bad spots with putty. Then it was progressively higher to about 400 grit. After that I assembled the pieces, I super glued (I use Loctite brand cyanoacrylate) strips of .5mm styrene sheet along the inside of one of the pieces to aid alignment and strengthen the join, then super glued the other half on, trying to get the join as flush as possible. After that I reinforced the interior with 5 minute epoxy resin as I’ve learnt the hard way that super glue alone isn’t strong enough. To make things neater inside and add more strength I added strips of duct tape along the inner seams as well.
After assembly Then I applied Filler Primer (Holts brand) and again filled and sanded it down using increasingly finer grit ending up at 1200. I drew the eyes on with a sharpie to see if how it worked.
I painted it with Tamiya flesh tone spray paint, this works nicely but the colour is a bit orangey. Actually I first tried Montana Gold Flesh tone spray paint, but this was awful, it went on really badly and had a nasty pallor to it , it was more zombie flesh than real flesh, avoid. (It was also really hard work to remove). If I print another one I’ll get an airbrush and spray it with that, that way I can get a better colour.
The models where made using Sub-Division Surfaces in Blender, I’ve included the .blend file if you want to modify it. The holes in the top are to aid ventilation as it gets rather warm.
I painted the eyes in Corel Photoshop (it’s like Adobe Photoshop but cheaper) and printed them on Matte photopaper, cut them out, edged the white paper with black paint and glued them to the mask with UHU universal adhesive. Actually I went through about 5 iterations of the eyes and attached them to test prints for practice before I did the final version, they need a bit of practice. Eye brows where done in a similar fashion. I painted the insides of the eye slits with black acrylic paint, using a brush, to make them blend into the eye line.
Inside the mask I added pieces of soft upholstery foam (glues with UHU again) to make it fit better.
The hair was actually 2 identical wigs I bought of ebay that I partially disseabled and attached to the head with Velcro (I gued the Velcro on with more UHU). At least 2 wigs are required because the head is significantly larger than a normal human’s. Wig styling is harder than and looks, if you haven’t done it before search for tutorials.