Power is nothing without control.
Daniel Noree has done a great Job to make the OpenRC F1-Car, but some changes will make the car much better.
One of the bigger problems is the streering system of the car, the 3d-printed servosaver may work, or may not, mine works not really.
But, I will drive fast, and I will drive the car safe, and now, I have reworked the steering-system completely.
It hast much better precision, it works quicker, and maybe, its an bit lighter.
If you want to build this version, you have some options.
My car has the front suspension from rhoagland, it is ths one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1455120
We need for this an new upper and lower bom, for the front axle, both parts are included.
Also include a modified upper and lower BOMs for normal version from Barspin, this here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1193309.
I also shortened the front BOM bloc, to make it possible to use other screws.
Some things we need to buy.
The important thing was an servosaver, which can mounted directly on servo.
I use the spare parts from Tamiya, it has a number 300115065, it is for the DT-01/07/DF-03 P-Te
This servosaver fits fine on an TowerPro MG90s servo.
Next thing, I buy was an set of ball joints. I buyed from ebay, and mine are the "M3"-version.
This is strong, and you can also use 2.5mm or 2mm versions!
To make the connections from servosaver to the wheel hubs, I also needed some M3 threaded rods.
If you use smaller ball joints, you need also smaller rods!
I included the *.blend file, to make it possible for you, to change some things, if you want.
All parts are on separate layers.
Included are cutted wheel hubs (recommended, if using ball joints) for normal and suspension version, a shortener front BOM part (if you need it, mostly not), upper and lower front BOM parts for suspension and normal version, servoholder for a servo like Towerpro MG90s (Sg90 should also fit in) and a front chassis plate with new holes, to mount the servo at the new position and orientation.
If you dont want to use ball-joint-connections, you have to modify the original connectors between wheel hubs and servosaver. They must be shortened (maybe not, if you screw them in middle of servosaver), and must be twisted in 90 degrees.
For best performance, I recommended using ball-joint-connectors.
All the parts can be printed without any support and in resolution and infill, you want. Most I have printed in 01.mm layer, the chassis has 0.2mm. Infill between 70 (servosaver, BOMbloc, chassis) and 90% (other parts).
I have the "old" version of the car, I dont know, if all the parts fit on the 2017 version (the chassis not, I think), if you have an 2017 version, you can change anything in the blend-file.
Simply load the original part in, and look to the modified parts, which changes to make.
Later, I will build an 2017 version of the car, and then, I will make parts for this.