Snap-Together Mini Minecraft Jack-O-Lantern with integrated LED

by scottrlindsey Sep 27, 2018
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Hi, but where is it possible to discharge the flame to be applied to the LED? There is no files in it. Thanks.

He has it as a separate thingiverse thing. I didn't have clear PLA to print it in, so I just used some hot glue and that dabbed it on the LED into a "flame" shape. It looks really good. Faster than a separate print.

Very nice model, but is there an easy way to change the batterie?

Description says: 0.4 Resolution? Is that correct?

Thanks! Awesome models!
The switches take a bit of touch up to work. I also noticed the tabs on almost every top snapped off during assembly unless I softened the pla w/ heat during assembly.

Thanks for the great model. "Top" isn't working for me in Slic3r 1.41.3, it previews fine but upon slicing a middle section of it disappears in the 3D render.

i had the same problem. It looks fine, but when sliced there are over 10 layers that are all air. Trying it on CURA now.

+1 same here in Prusa Slicer 2.1.0

you can repair it right in prusa slicer 2.1 through netfab service. worked for me

Had the same issue. Used online NetFab tool at https://service.netfabb.com/ for the TOP stl and got it fixed. Now slic3r works perfectly.

I just wanted to thank you for a great idea and great design. I printed 6 of them and gave them to my grand kids and neighbors.
Thanks again and keep them coming!

Six of them! That's great and happy Halloween!

Great design! Thnks!
Hardly any sanding to do. Printed this on a Wanhao D6

In your video, you use a printed flame on top of the LED?

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This works really well, excellent part precision. I printed with support with PLA on a Makerbot 2+.Thank you such a great model.

Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed and and thanks for reporting on how your print worked out!

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This is a really well-designed model, thank you. I printed on MP Select Mini with random-brand Orange PLA and the tolerances were reasonable; sanding necessary on all the bottom edges so that's a over-extrusion problem, not a model dimension problem. BTW, I found this too late to order the flickering LEDs from Amazon in time to get them for Halloween so I took apart a dollar-store flickering LED candle votive. The battery was the right kind already. The LED leads were cut down a lot but they fit well enough to work without any modifications, so I'm super pleased. Only thing I'm missing is a Minecraft-style "pixelated" flame diffuser LOL

A pixelated flame! Well now I know what I'm adding next year. I'm glad you enjoyed it!

Could you take another look at the stump-with-hole file? It is not manifold, and Slice3r sees 53 errors in it. When I print it, I get pieces that break off as separate parts and it won't stay in the hole.

The rest does print without supports and snaps together fine, but is a tiny bit sloppy on the unsupported overhangs.

I found some extraneous geometry and have uploaded new STL files for the stumps, hopefully that fixes you up.

Imports great now, will try it tomorrow. Thank you!

Couple suggestions- The stump still has some small areas that are air-printed on the bottom, which causes print artifacts. Would work better if support was enabled for the stump, or if it was adjusted to have a completely flat base for printing.

I'm having problems with the sides of the head snapping off when I try to do the final assembly step. Maybe a bevel on the base to help guide the edges in, and maybe a little thicker on the sides would be nice.

Thanks for the very neat design, lots of compliments on it already.

I've found that printing the buttons at 96% makes them fit/slide just perfect on my MK3.
Found a bug in SlicerPE 1.41.1 though, that miss-generates some of the geometry of the head, causing 10 layers to go missing. Check the gcode before printing if you are using it, the air-print is obvious if you look.

This is my issue, is there a workaround?

Top is not manifold. Slic3rPE was handling it OK, the newest version fails on it. Repetier on the old Slic3r fails to generate good code for it too.

This is why I use Cura ;)

This is really cool and I will post a make when I am done. However I noticed that the button tabs were too large by about 1mm (width) and 0.5mm in height, and would not fit the holes in the sides. I plan to scale them by about 85% and see if that works. Based on the other makes I may also scale the stump by 5% or so (I've not printed the stump yet since I want to print it in a different color).

The buttons are sized exactly to the hole, which sort of acts as a de-facto calibration check. If you have a 1mm difference in size, you are probably over-extruding. Even if you are not over-extruding though, many printers squish the first layer down and give you some "elephant foot" on the first layer which you need to sand off (you did watch the assembly video, right?)

The hole for the stump is not exactly sized -- there is a little extra room there, but only a bit. You could try scaling the stump down a bit, but I don't think that's going help very much unless you can fix your over-extrusion.

That said, good luck and let us all know how it comes out!

Thanks, it has been a while since I ran a calibration cube to check the dimensional accuracy, will check into it. The extruder however was calibrated several weeks ago when I swapped out the nozzle so my steps per/mm should be good. I also take care of the "elephant foot" as a matter of course when things come off the printer (a swivel head de-brurring took is great for doing that). And check on watching the video, you covered everything there really well. But since the PLA I am using is a bit brittle, and I just wanted to get the prints done, I went ahead and scaled things to fit, and it worked out well (everything snaps together just like the video). Below is what I used for scaling in case it may help some other folks in a similar situation:

Buttons - 90%
Stump - 95%
Insert - 100%
Base - 101%
Nose 101%
Top - 102.5%

I'm still learning by trial and error as far as designing goes, but I have found that when I am making parts to fit together, using a clearance of 75-100% the expected layer height as a clearance on all sides that need to come in contact seems to work (that is for parts that need to slide). For parts that would snap together I would probably start with 30-50% of the LH as clearance (have only made a few parts like that so far). IMHO, the surface variation on FDM prints is just too imperfect for zero clearance, at least on my printers (which admittedly, have had a host of problems).

These are so cool that I am gonna need to print a few more now (everyone wants one) :D

I'm using HatchBox PLA on a Prusa i3 MK3 and when i try to put the base into the top, it keeps breaking the end pieces. Unless someone can make a different suggestions I'll have to reprint the top a bit larger or use your suggested scales.

Last year I printed about a half dozen of these (which were awesome with RGB 2pin LEDs BTW). You could try running one with the scaling factors, since the top ( @ 102.5%) should end up scaled slightly more than the base (@101%) with those. Good luck!

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This looks awesome, thanks for posting.
Q: Do you think it will work ok in ABS? That's the only orange I have. And do you think I'd need to scale it up a bit for shrinkage?


I haven't tried printing with ABS myself, but yes, I suspect you'll need to scale up if you have expect shrinkage. I would suggest printing the base, the insert, and the buttons -- put those together as I do in the video and verify that the battery moves as expected. The print the rest of the parts to the same size.

And thank you, I hope you enjoy the print.