DISCLAIMER: Assume that I'm an idiot (It's the safer assumption), attempt this modification at your own risk!
It seems I will not be getting Bottlework's Aluminum Arm upgrade, he has canceled my order and "BANNED" me from ordering from him! This transpired over a difference of opinion relating to the definition and purpose of the PayPal Resolution Center.
For those of you who don't know, PayPal has a Resolution Center where you can Dispute a transaction WITHIN 45 days of payment, which is there to resolve issues between the consumer and the Seller. Bottleworks believes that the only reason to file a dispute is if you are demanding a refund, but I see it as a tool to cover myself in case anything happens.
In short, I filed a PayPal dispute on the 44th day since ordering to cover myself should I have an issue and Bottleworks got upset (canceling the order and "Banning" me). If I had not filed the dispute I would have lost the protection PayPal provides, which is the point of using PayPal. I should mention I did the same thing on my HBP order for the same reason, although that time I warned him repeatedly that I would do so.
Some short advice when dealing with Bottleworks, just from my experience.
- Don't expect timely delivery, or accurate timelines. (4 weeks isn't accurate, nor were the ETA's I was given upon inquiry).
- Don't expect the item to ship when you receive the tracking information. (In my case, I had the tracking number for a week with no movement).
- Don't expect him to be understanding or reasonable if you do what I did. He will simply cancel your order and refuse to work with you.
- If you are missing documentation, don't expect him to provide it. At the time I received the HBP the Makerware profiles link on his page was dead, and my email request for a copy was ignored.
I'm going to have to pursue an alternative upgrade to these arms, if I come up with something comparable and cheaper to make I'll post the information/plans on Thingiverse under a free licence.
I have found that setting the temperature to approximately 110 F produces the best results. 120 actually leads to extruder problems, and the cooling fan is not as effective leading to more pronounced warping.
I have installed the heat sinks on the x/y stepper motors. While I believe this may be a futile attempt to protect them, I feel better having done something. I used 20 11x11x5 heat sinks to allow me flexibility in placement. I've added pictures detailing their placement.
Note: The heater I chose was designed for heating enclosures and features a positive thermal coefficient ceramic heating element which is safer in that as the temperature gets closer to a dangerous level the heater will reduce it's heat output. However, I wouldn't suggest leaving it unattended for any length of time.
After installing Bottleworks' HBP upgrade I found that the internal temperature of my enclosed replicator was not getting nearly as warm as it used to because the HBP is more efficient and isn't run nearly as hot. So I set out to find a way to increase the internal temperature of the Replicator 1 in a controllable way.
Left to do:Install Bottleworks' Aluminum arms upgrade, add inline fuse to AC in, and add solid state relay to utilize PID solid state output (clicking can be annoying).
Step 1. Implement the MightyBoard Airflow Rework or some variation of it, you don't want to be heating your MightyBoard. I've linked those upgrades under this thing's sources.
Step 2. Order Parts, I've listed the main components I used here, although your implementation is bound to vary.
Replicator 1 printer which you don't mind potentially damaging....
JLD7100 Digital Display PID Temperature Controller: Amazon.com -$32.50 USD http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HIRSGK/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1M (3.3ft) K type Thermocouple for PID temperature controller: Amazon.com - $1.98 USD http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HHXZB8/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Integra DIN6 DIN Rail Kit, 2 Rails, 4 Screws, 6" Nominal Length: Amazon.com - $10.31 USD http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007EWUK5M/ref=oh_details_o01_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
12V 2A DC Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply: Amazon.com - $5.82 USD http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002FH54L6/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Omron G7L-2A-BUBJ-CB DC24 General Purpose Relay With Test Button, Class B Insulation, Screw Terminal, Upper Bracket Mounting, Double Pole Single Throw Normally Open Contacts, 79 mA Rated Load Current, 24 VDC Rated Load Voltage: Amazon.com - $10.57 USD http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T74294/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1 Flyback Diode to protect your MightBoard from your Relay's coil discharge.
Cirrus FGC1007.2R Enclosure Heater 120/240VAC 12v DC Security CCTV Heat Camera: Ebay.com - $71.97 USD http://www.ebay.com/itm/221206290359?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
SPST 16A 125V Illuminated Round Rocker Switch with Red LED: radioshack - $4.49 USD http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3118987
Antec spot cooling fan: Can't remember where I got this, it was left over from my old PC I tore down a few years back. However it can be found online and is called "Antec Spot Cool Case Fan".
Power Socket: Stolen from an old power brick for an HP Printer I no longer own.
Misc Scrap Wire I already owned, old power cord for the high voltage, PC wiring for the low.
Misc Nuts and Bolts used for mounting.
Soldering Iron, Drill, Hole Saws, Coping Saw
Step 3: Assembly
The PID controller and switches are mounted in the front of the Replicator, under the printer floor but above the protective bottom plate. The file for the simple face plate I made is attached.
The power socket is mounted in the back left of the underside of the printer, be sure to carefully shield the wiring here, there is no protective plate.
Other Items are simply mounted underneath through the floor of the printer as needed.
Current Functionality/ General wiring description:
120 VAC comes in through the back power socket and is wired in parallel to the 24V DC NO Contact relay AND the right most switch on the front display (Live wire being switched). (To do, Add inline fuse in case of short)
Both the Switch(mentioned above) and the relay go the PID controller and the 12v DC switching power supply. So, when either the switch or relay is engaged both the PID controller and 12V power supply have 120VAC power.
The PID Controller is wired to supply 120 VAC to the heater, while the 12V power supply powers the 12V fans on both the heater and the fan mounted next to the heater for circulation. In other words, if the heater switch is on, the fans are running regardless of if the controller is actually sending voltage to the heater element. (Note, the fan mounted to my extruders that blows across the print is run off 5 volts stepped down from the 12 volt supply and controlled by the second switch on the front display)
The 24V relay is wired to the Extra output on the mighty board with the FLYBACK DIODE IN REVERSE POLARITY across the terminals. I can't emphasize enough the importance of the diode, I actually soldered them to the wires so if it came loose I wouldn't forget it or connect it in the wrong polarity causing a short. This allows the control of the heater systems power from the MightyBoard using G-code commands. (The idea being you turn on the switch to preheat, and once the print begins the relay is engaged allowing you to turn the switch off without powering down the heating system. Once the print finishes the relay is disengaged and the heating systems turns off).
The second NO contact on the 24V DC relay is wired to the brass contact on the right switch (power) and the Neutral wire of the 120VAC. This turns the light on that is embedded into the switch when the relay is engaged, giving me a visual indication of when it's safe to toggle the power switch to off without cutting power to the heating system.
The thermocouple is run under the insolation I have added on the floor of the printer and pops out in the right front corner of the printer opposite the heating element.
When the power switch is turned on, the heater and heating fans are turned on, the PID settings determine if the heating element has heat.
The second switch manually turns on my extruder mounted cooling fan, but is dependent on the heater power being engaged.
When/if the extra output is utilized to turn on/off at the beginning and end of the print, the 24VDC relay is engaged, turning on the power switches red light and effectively shorting the power switch out of the circuit allowing it to be turned off. At the end of the print the extra output turns off, turning the heater off with it.
You may notice the hood has a Reflectix Hat on in some of the pictures, it looks ridiculous but really speeds up the preheating and allows for higher temperatures to be obtained, (I've hit 118 F without the heater running with the hat on, and just preheating via the printer controls).