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chrisjh

Pi1541-II Case

by chrisjh Sep 29, 2018
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I'd love to see this allow for the opposite fit for Pi1541s that sit like this:
https://retrozonesite.wordpress.com/2018/08/04/pi1541/

I am really curious about how I could mod this to fit in your case. Also it looks like this OLED is larger than yours.

Let me know your thoughts. Thanks!

Yeah, it is opposite so you would have to flip the base and move the alignments for the usb,hdmi, audio. Then cut out the bottom back to allow the USB and Ethernet Ports to stick out the back leaving the Serial Ports inline with the case still. You would lose access to the SD Card. I also like your bigger screen, i have one but the screw holes are much smaller. Your screw holes appear to be quite big to allow passthrough. I may need to look for your LCD Screen as well. Have a play with sketchup to modify the case for your board, ogg1e did a mod for the large LCD.

I can do measurements with my calipers if that'll help get you the sizes you need for the screen, if you are interested. I also found a SD card extension that could easily fit into a bracket. I personally like using the micro SD to normal SD card ones because then you feel like you are actually taking disks out. :D

do you print the new front face down? I did, and it looks bad in the section where the large indentation is. It might be slic3r just not doing the supports correctly, but I can't get it to look smooth.

I print upright, with support build plate only. In Cura i also enable Support Interface which creates a solid support roof on the support structure. Not sure what that is called in slic3r. See Photos

How hard is this to take apart once the front is attached? It looks like it locks together pretty well.

when the four m3 screws are in place to hold the top to the main part it is pretty secure. it does not move. you have to unscrew again to get access again.

I personally like m2 screws and melt in some knurled nuts, I bought a 100 pack on eBay and been using them for all of my cases.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/M2x3mm-Brass-Cylinder-Knurled-Threaded-Round-Insert-Embedded-Nuts-100PCS/222965277490?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

The nice thing about these nuts is they fit in an 3mm spot perfectly and melt right in. Just have to change the actual screw holes to be 2mm so they don't sink too far in.

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Sorry did not see your comment from 4 days ago. This design requires a daughter board for the display and buttons. Hope these photos help, i am working on V1.4.1 which moves the Pi closer to the edge but not uploaded yet. Some also mentioned to me there is an error in the STL, but when i load up using Cura it looks fine and prints fine. They were using Simplify3D. Currently i have been using Sketchup to create this design, and it is a bit messy. I won't to tidy it all up for V1.5 and will release then.

Ah. I see. i'm using the larger lcd. I will try to create a a daughter board for it in eagle and upload it.

Do you happen to have the dimensions for the large lcd daughterboard? Screw hole positions etc? Would make it easy to design a board for a print house if you did.

BTW - thanks for this it's awesome and looks really good.

the larger oled i have only just tested (been waiting for m2 screws) and it doesn’t quite fit. i need to make some major changes for it i think as it was really difficult to screw into place, also one of the holes was miss aligned. (going to remove that one for now i think) i will probably move the screen away from the buttons. I will give you my sketchup files and you can have a play, it is a bit messy but would be easier for you

I think you're right. Having the screen and buttons separate for the larger lcd makes sense. I'll take a look at it in sketchup this weekend. Thanks!

Attached is Sketchup file with V1.4.1 where i moved the Pi closer to the edge also. I used Sketchup Make V17.3.116 with the STL export plugin. I tried to use there web version and it was terrible compared to the proper application.

I'm super rusty at sketchup. I tried to move some things around and it's taking forever... But why not leave the LCD where it is, and move the LEDs somewhere else (inside the drive hole) or use the small square leds in the drive slot? Like these: https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/kingbright/WP113GDT/754-1200-ND/1747599

And then you can put the 5 buttons to the other side where the LEDs were? 3 above the notch and 2 below?

Or maybe put the buttons on the top of the case?

I made this with sketchup 2018. It puts the buttons on the top. I don't think it'll interfere with the pihat board, but I haven't tested it yet. I was thinking for the lcd, why not just build a slot for the lcd to rest into, and then a separate bar that screws in place to hold the lcd against the front of the case? That way the lcd would be flush with the case and would also be easier to attach.

ok. Spent some more time on this and added a slot to slide the lcd into, and a bracket that will then hold the other end of the lcd in place. I haven't printed it to verify if it works.

Ok cool, i shall have a look when i get time. I have been busy over this weekend at a gaming expo, i got to say hello to David Pleasance.

so sketchup is generating a lot of errors in the stl. When I load it up in Slicr, it has 298 errors, and it can't slice it properly. I used Cura and it looks like it sliced ok. I've read online that sketchup is notorius for generating bad stls....

Someone online fixed it for me, and here's the working stl.

Ha ok, i use Cura so never noticed, lol

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there's no way the backoffice board would fit in here correctly as far as i can tell. Can you upload some photos on how you got it to work? And maybe upload the design files so I could remix it?

What type of buttons does this require since they're going to be in the front of the case instead of on the board?