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OpenFabPDX

Modular Fiddle

by OpenFabPDX Oct 1, 2018
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Hello, I am trying to print the modular fiddle body, but the supports that came in the "with supports" file keep falling over. Would it be okay for me to generate my own supports on the basic no support file?

Have you thought about making any other sizes? I would like to make one for my daughter but am a little worried about scaling it and then finding the correct rod sizes.

I have thought about it but don't currently have plans to do so. You are correct that scaling presents some challenges!

hey, I have an Anet A8 but the surface is only 220220250... is it ok if I make it fit in my printer like this? or should I do cut it in half so it can fit?

I wouldn't recommend scaling the parts to fit, as you will have trouble with, at the least, the truss rods. Others have cut the body in half with some success. Head over to the Google Group, there's some more discussion there. https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/of-fiddles

just kidding ... I already printed it out using carbon fiber PLA using the same method as this... https://www.thingiverse.com/make:558816
I think I'm still gonna printout every accessory on this violin ( i had never learned anything about violin plus I'm new to 3d printing and I definitely don't want to buy any accessory because I don't have money except the bow and the strings (that's why I have an anet a8 lol)) i treat this as my spring break little project

It is really an honor to reply to you and I am really thankful for this great your great design :) (except the carbon fiber tube part ... I really think that we can avoid using this tube 15$ in some way)

Modular Fiddle

Oh, nice, I'm glad you got it to fit!

You are most welcome!! It's my pleasure to support you and others in making a Modular Fiddle. So, thank you!

Haha, yeah, I know, having to use a truss rod is a bummer. The main issue is not that the parts will break, but that they will move slowly over time. The CF tube takes the brunt of the stress, otherwise the plastic will creep and eventually warp to failure.

I am exploring the use of heat treatable CF-PLA and it shows very promising results in reducing creep and I have been able to tentatively eliminate the second truss rod through the body and into the neck.

Hi i have a question what truss rod are you using and where can i get one or one like it. Thanks

You can find a full design package with bill of materials on my website: https://openfabpdx.com/modular-fiddle

But the short answer is that they are two 8x6x330mm (ODxIDxLength) carbon fiber tubes. I'm using these, specifically: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TF8UW9C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thank you so much. I'm making one and let me just say you did such a great job on it really beautiful model. Hopefully it works because i cut the body in into four pieces wish me luck lul.

Wow, four pieces!?! Good luck! Fortunately the Body is the easiest part (bridge aside) to change out, so if it doesn't quite work build it up anyway and swap out bodies until you get something that works. And -- thank you!

What is the naming convention for the files?
Was Grover made by Grover? I am guessing bigger numbers are newer.

Thank you for asking. Yes, the -RX on the end of every part is the revision number, and they increase for each revision. So yes, higher numbers are more recent.

For the Pegbox there are two active designs. Previously there were designs that supported two different Grover tuners and one set of Waverly tuners. The active design supports only Grover 6 tuners. The -Pegs- classification is designed for traditional pegs, but will likely need to be reamed with a pegbox reamer.

To break down the naming:
Pegbox-4String-Grover6-R2-Oriented
Part name - number of strings or instrument type - tuner type - revision number - oriented for printing

There is a variation pegbox R2b, it has a small flange on the end that is a small design change but does not change performance.

Like my 3D violin, I think it would be cool to add more 3D printable parts, it would make things all around easier for builders. From my experience, the only parts that can't be 3D printed are the tail-cord and the strings. I think you could add your own stylized pegs, and chin rest. For my current build, I've opted to use my parts in those places, although they don't fit your poly-style.

Is that peg-box new? And is that a 7 string peg box??? Or just 5?

That's a five string pegbox. The five string files are available for purchase here: https://openfabpdx.com/shop

Yeah I agree -- I am slowly adding more and more 3D printed stuff as time allows. I have a tailpiece that seems to be good enough, I will upload that soon, but yours would probably work. And you can use 3mm nylon filament for the tailpiece gut. Maybe 1.75 would be strong enough, too.

Another maker has printed pegs and is using them now. I'm about to do the same to test them out. Then, yeah, all you need is strings, which is pretty amazing.

How is your chin rest attached?

How many perimeters does it need?

If I'm not too late, I recommend you stick with the default 2. 1 might be too thin, and will show imperfections. Also Less weight overall is better for sound.

Whatever you do, make sure that you're top and bottom plates are solid. If you print them with infill, print another body with solid plates and swap them out so we can see what the difference is in sound!

Hey Justin -- I'm glad you asked! (Justin also sent me an email with some other questions, here's my response in full so everyone can see the info.)

I’m printing with a .35mm nozzle with extrusion thickness set at 0.42. For the Neck and Pegbox I print with three perimeters and 15% rectilinear infill. You can do whatever seems best for those parts with relatively little effect. The Body is a bit different. It’s designed to be printed with a 0.42 extrusion thickness, which means the top plate (the body section on top of the instrument that touches the bridge) is 6 extrusion widths and the bottom plate is 7-8. I print with three perimeters, which gives me a solid top plate. What is important is that your top plate is solid. Ideally the bottom plate is as well, but that is less critical. I would recommend previewing in your slicer to make sure there are a minimum of gaps in the top plate. Then, check on it during the print to confirm.

The Body is a tricky print. I would recommend running one print at 0.2mm or larger layer heights to minimize your risk of failure. Once you have one successfully printed, then try 0.1 if you’re still interested.

The important features of the body print with little or no infill, so your choice of infill should have very little effect on sound. I would say print what’s fastest and minimizes warp.

That's amazing job!!
I like this lowpoly style very much :DD
By the way is it fine to use pegs instead of tuners?

Thank you! I like the style, too.

Good question about pegs. Pegs wont fit in any of the pegboxes as designed. I am working on a pegbox that will accept standard violin pegs, but to work well it will need to be reamed with a pegbox reaming tool and the pegs may also need to be fitted and lubricated properly.

The ukelele tuners I'm using currently are very easy to install, tighten, and tune. They are heavy and more expensive, though. Pegs are inexpensive and lighter, but the setup is much more difficult.

I am happy to share the STL for my violin peg pegbox. It is too ugly to post on Thingiverse (and hasn't been tested), but shoot me an email [email protected] and I'll send it your way.

Thank you so much! I will take your suggestion and use tuners. Thanks for your advice and brilliant work!!

Can you teach me how to play please

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Build up a Modular Fiddle and we'll go from there. :-)

Comments deleted.

Any video/audio demonstration?

Jay -- I recorded a quick video with my phone this morning. It's linked in the project -- check it out! I hope to publish more videos in the coming weeks showing direct instrument comparisons and using better recording equipment.

Wow that sounds fantastic!

I have a nephew who's a Banjo/Mandolin player, I may have to make him one of these for Christmas.

Nice -- do it! Post up a Make if you make one, I'd love to see it.

Thanks for asking -- there will be soon! Stay tuned.