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FedorSosnin

Stock Ender 3 & A10 Hot End Chain Links

by FedorSosnin Oct 2, 2018
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I love this design! I did have a problem with it though. It kept wanting to pop off of the spacers if the chain flexed too much. I ended up drilling a couple of holes and zip tieing it to them. I figured I'd post a pic here just in case you got bored and wanted to tinker with your design. Cheers!

That is a real clean way to add zip ties! Well done. Which filament are you using to print? Wonder if its print settings or the filament that is making it flex a bit too much. Mine have always snapped on tight.

I think that was printed in white Amazon Basics PLA.

Great work. Could you tell me exactly what screw you used in the Extruder?

Any chance I could get a step file for the hot end side link? I have a e3d v6 and am using the mount by @chito which won't work with this. I can always try editing the stl or redesigning on my own but it'd be easier if you happened to have the file.

I only have the STL. It was designed in tinkercad. You are welcome to modify them if you'd like.

Could I ask for a picture of the Extruder from the back of the machine? It's not clear to me just how you've run the cable up the back side.

Thanks

I printed this a while back but ended up taking it off because it reduces the build volume in the Z axis. Any chance of getting the total heigh of the assembly changed?

I dont think it would be possible with this design. There is one floating around that goes from hotend to the top of the x axis stepper. That is probably more inline with what you are looking for. Especially if you need that extra little bit at the very top. I never print that high, so it was not a big concern at the time of design.

Comments deleted.

this doesn't work with an a10

Can you take a picture of the proble? I’d love a chance to resolve it.

if you need more pictures of an A-10 let me know

On the A10 the connector that goes to the extruder is in the way also thank you so much for replying

Ah. I remember this issue. User @nordicblue mentioned they fixed this by moving a piece to another location (below in the comments) but I dont see a photo. I can ping him and see if he can help. Here is what he said below "same issue. But i've found a solution. I've modded extra board position. I will try to post a picture quickly. With this mod, it's easier to upgrade hot end fan (for silence), and adapt FedorSosnin work."

what is resolution .2 yo guy talking about? im new in this field . i use Cura app to export G code. thank you design i want to print this for my ender 3.

By .2 I am referring to the layer height. Since you’d be printing layer by layer, you can control how “fine” the results look via this setting.

I’d print this no higher than .2mm. Otherwise you begin to lose a bit of strength and only gain minimal speed. Let me know if you have more questions.

impreso y montado, pero no probado (todavia), el aspecto es genial, solo me falta montar la cadena del eje Z

Thank you for printing. Lookin good!

Any idea how I can get the bowden tube up off those links? I think the rubbing will either get caught or cause some other issue in time. Print worked perfect at .2mm layer height, 30% infill, 215°c nozzle and 50° bed at 75% fr speed for the first two layers- took about 3 hours for your two pieces and 17 links if I recall. Standard PLA. Anyway, love it! But any tips on the tube from anyone would be awesome!

Glad the print worked! Looks like you either have to shorten your bowden tube a bit or add another link or two. I bet adding a single link and cutting a tiny amount off your tube will stop the contact.

Hi, which file is for the Ender 3? The ''Hot-end-side-link_v8'' or ''Hot-end-side-link_v8_Geeetech_v10''?

"Hot-end-side-link_v8" is the one you want. The Geeetech_v10 is for a "clone" called the Geetech V10

For those needing to know which kind of screw to use for the extruder part, I was able to use an M3-.5 x 12mm machine screw that I bought from my local Ace Hardware store for $.47. I believe an M3 is the same as an M3-.5, so you can likely also buy screws labeled M3 x 12mm. You might be able to even go up to 14mm.

Here's one on Home Depot's site: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-M3-x-12-mm-Zinc-Plated-Phillips-Pan-Head-Machine-Screw-3-per-Bag-802718/204282659

Thank you! This is helpful.

Should include this in the description, I printed out the extruder bracket and it does not fit at all, because said bolt/screw is too short

What is the cooling fan duct you put on your printer?

CR-10 / Ender Hotend Cover For Stock Fans

What is the cooling fan duct file you have on your printer?

Hi, very nice design. I've made a remix https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3394506 I hope you don't mind.

Hot end chain bracket for CR-10 / CR-10S

Not at all. Love seeing people improve and tweak the design.

Hi, would this work with a CR10? And if it would do you know how many links I would need? Thanks

It would fit the CR10 but im not sure how many links you would need. Since the CR10 is basically double the size, I'd say 25ish links? You can always start small and keep printing them as you need. :) Otherwise, it should work.

Great prints, but the hot end doesn't sit well on my stock ender 3. Any ideas on how to resolve this?

Hmm. Looks like it's popping off? Or is it too small to fit?

It fits over the wheels fine without the cable running through. The black cable is lifting it away based on the angle. That piece is only meant to sit on the wheels correct? Not actually clip or fit snug, which would keep it down.

Thats strange. It should snap on and be a snug fit. I wonder if you need to reprint it at about 95% scale or something simular. Not sure why you are getting a loose fit like that.

A reprint fixed my issue, thank you. I figured it had to clamp on somehow, not just sit atop.

Thanks for posting, I'm having a similar issue, and am now going to try a reprint.

15mm....OK what is the actual name of the screw?

I used the stock screw on the extruder side, assuming that's why you're asking. I carefully drilled the hole on the upper portion to the width of the screw head, if that helps.

Heads up for anyone with the version 3 A10: It has a molex plug for the hot end that sticks straight up where the hot end connector would snap on. So, this will now work :(

Love your design, and wish it would have worked for me.

same issue. But i've found a solution. I've modded extra board position. I will try to post a picture quickly. With this mod, it's easier to upgrade hot end fan (for silence), and adapt FedorSosnin work.
Thanks to FedorSosnin for it work

Awesome, would love to see the picture :)

Thats great to hear! Thank you and looking forward to seeing the picture. :)

Shoot me a picture. Maybe I can make an edit. ;)

Interesting, thanks for proving that. I don't have an A10. So, this is first time I'm seeing this. If I have some free time, I will try to cool somethin up.

This looks awesome, it's the next thing I'm going to print! Two quick questions:

1) Will this work with the stock extruder? I actually purchased an aluminum upgrade, but it should be the same otherwise. And if so, do you happen to know what bolt I need to buy as a replacement because I can't imagine the stock bolt is long enough with the extra space.
2) Where did you get that file for the extruder gear knob?

Thank you!

  1. This will deff work with the stock extruder. The screw you need should be 15mm in length.
  2. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2776404

:)

Creality CR-10 / Ender 2/ Ender 3 Extruder Knob

Why does this have standoffs?

Im sorry, I'm not sure what you mean.

Hey there! I installed it on my Ender 3 and it works great so far~ pictures on the way :3 Only thing is, when I jog my gantry all the way up (to 250mm) the top part of the chain collides with the top bracket. This shouldn't be an issue for me ever since I don't think I'll print that high anyway, but I think good to be aware of this.

Noted! In my case, my extruder knob hits my z-rod stabilizer before there in an issue with the chains. But I too don't plan on printing at max height. Thanks for the tip and lookin forward to seeing the make!

The a10 hot end mount link isn`t strong enough

I’d love a chance to fix it. Can you please elaborate? Maybe take a picture?

where can i find the chain?

Under “Remixed from” in the “Thing Details” section. ;)

Hi. This is a great design that utilizes the cable chains that I already have for my hot bed and x cables. And the parts printed beautifully. My only problem is that the hot end piece doesn't work with the Petsfang Bullseye. The hot end connector is centered between the two rollers, which pulls the electrical wires to the left of my bowden tube instead of the right. With the stock fan setup, this would be no issue. But the Petsfang Bullseye has a wire guide on the right hand side and sits lower. Any way you could modify a piece for the Bullseye?

I will look into this. Worth a mention, this mod IS designed around the stock fan setup. The main reason is because moving the chain mount further left or right collides the chain with the sides of the printer when the print head is at the end or the start of it's travel. I COULD just "cut off" the cable tie section of the bullseye base if thats what you are interested in. There might already be remixes of that actually and technically, you could just take a fresh exacto to that mount and chop it off.

That's very true. I'll have to see once I get the Bullseye installed. It would be cool if the guy who designed the Bullseye had a version with your mount built into it.

I have a bullseye, and just installed this cable chain. Just not using the strain relief on the bullseye base anymore.
A remix bringing the two together would be nice, but I also like the fact that this chain is independent of the used fan duct.
Perhaps I'll just create a bullseye base without the strain relief thing on top.

A version of the hot end side connector with the cable more towards the right side would indeed be nicer for bullseye users, but this one workshop so far.

I also reduced the amount of links compared to the picture of the creator, otherwise the remaining cable length is quite tight to the maximum z-height. (I have set that to 225mm instead of the 250mm now, to not interfere with the top bar)

I also have the bullseye and was just looking for info as well and i just thought of having the mount stop printing at xxx layer height so it doesnt finish the cable relief on the bullseye mount. May be a quick solution.

Hi FedorSosnin. Do you have a link to the extruder mod. i am trouble locating it. i have printed off the chain and the hotend connector and the extruder connector as well as the extruder knob, but i cannot locate the extruder mod.

Ender & CR10 Filament Extruder Block with Threaded Coupler and Nut

Thanks!! i will post some pics when i get it all finished.

Awesome. Looking forward to it.

Anyone tried this for the A10? I found that it will not fit a stock hotend, there are two inner screws that stop it from mount8ng. Fits the outer ones fine.

I made it for someone who messaged me some measurements. They said it fit for them. Send me a picture and I’ll make an edit. ;)

Somehow this piece is way too wide to snap in. See photo

Oops. Looks like you printed the Geeetech A10 file. There are two files included, the smaller one being for the ender.

Thanks for all your things, you did great mods to your ender 3 and I'm slowly getting up with mine.
I'm still having trouble with this thing, the hotend side failed 3 times in a row in the same way (see picture).
Any suggestion?

Same thing happened on my 1st, I just bit the bullet, put it vertical, and enabled add supports everywhere so that those parts are layered the other way. Bit scary on the support removal though.

Oh man. Sorry to hear. I have strengthened that part in version 8 - "Hot-end-side-link_v8". Please try that one.

Also, try printing at .15 layer height and slow down the print a bit. Maybe to 40mm/s. That should help raise the quality of this piece quite a bit.

A thing of beauty! Great work and thank you for sharing!

Thank you. Glad you enjoy it. :)

Hi :) what is this hotend cooler project?
Do You use it all the time? Or maby you did found some other better one?

I think you are referring to the fan duct I am using. You can find it here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2879538. I have been using it for months and it's been working so well, I have no reason to change to another one quite yet.

CR-10 / Ender Hotend Cover For Stock Fans

where did you get the fan cover on Luckyman's hot end cover?

Hi :) Do you have a file of cover (round with holes ) for fan ?
Thanks :)

Yes, yes, yes :) That's it :) Thank You !

Do you mind posting step files?

I made these files in Tinkercad. So unfortunately, I only have access to obj and stl at the moment. I am learning Fusion360 however and plan to remake it in the future.

I think it looks better with 15 links. They are enough length. Super-great design!

You might be right! My goal was to get rid of all the slack behind the printer. I could even go more links on mine. Wonder if the length varies between versions of the printer?

Thanks for the compliment. :)

I couldn't find the piece to attach the cables on the extruder side...
Also, how to reduce the noise? The link covers vibrate way too much. I will try to use some glue.

That's strange but I have attached the piece here for you. (Extruder-side-link_v2.stl)

Noise? Hmm. If your chain link covers are vibrating that much you can try to print them a bit smaller, maybe 98% scale, or glue them like you mentioned. That sounds like you might need to loosen a belt or something simular to reduce vibrations. Might be worth investigating. ;)

Hey, thanks for the quick reply.
You just sent me the same file. It only has the extruder mount piece, not the one piece that makes the cable attached to the chain.
I'm attaching a screenshot for the missing piece.

Ah. Now I understand. You can find that file here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060

I didn't want to include it in my files because I did not create it.

Ender 3 Cable Chain

So this is 'cableChain_XendCover' from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060 right ?. Thanks for sharing, printing as we speak :)

Ender 3 Cable Chain

Yep. Thats the one! :)

What duct are you using on the hot-end? I'm using the Bullseye from here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439. It has a place to zip-tie the cable to, but it doesn't line up with the hot-end piece and I also run into the issue where the hot-end piece gets knocked off when X-Axis goes to home.

Petsfang Duct for CR10 MicroSwiss/Stock/E3Dv6/Volcano/TevoTornado /Tarantula Hot End/E3Dv6 CNC Mount & 5015 fan Bullseye
by dpetsel

Hi, I made a base for the ender 3 without the cable guide : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3244704

Bullseye Base For Ender 3 Without Cable guide

This is the duct im using: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2879538

I've never had experience with the Bullseye unfortunetly. I geared this Thing to work with a stock ender. Sounds like the Bullseye modifies where the wireing ends up, unfortunetly.

Sorry to hear about the issue with the hot-end piece getting knocked off. Second time I've heard of it but havent come accross it myself. There must be a small variation in the X-axis end-stop spacing between different machines. I have an idea for a fix for this and will post this asap.

CR-10 / Ender Hotend Cover For Stock Fans
Comments deleted.

Hi @FedorSosnin. Really nice remix!
I've printed it with the recommened settings, but the piece that sits on the hotend (I believe it's called?) does not fit.
See the attached images. It seems like it can only press down on one of the two metal parts. They both work fine when only doing one, so the diameter of the holes seem to be okay, but when trying to press them both down, it wont "snap" in place. Seems like it's to short.
Do you have any idea on how to fix this issue?

Thank you for including photos—really helps me to try and figure out how to improve this.

What material are you using? Is it just regular PLA?

I have uploaded a new file that should address adding strength to several areas, including the one you have pictured, and potential size issues that you have mentioned. Please use "Hot-end-side-link v5" for the latest file.

For convenience, I will also attach the file here. :) Let me know how it goes!

Hi again,

Thanks for the fast reply. Just had a long print that needed to finish.
I've tried the new version (v5) and it works really great. Fits perfectly and is easy to print.

I'm using regular PLA with hotend 200c and bed 60c

Thanks!

AWWW yea! Glad to hear it. Post your make ;)

Hello can I use this with cable chain from bottom of the printer , like it is in original files ?

It will work with this chain: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060

If you had those thinks on the bottom of the printer, it will work. I recommend 17 links total.

Ender 3 Cable Chain

Thank you for your reply. I will print this soon

Hey great remix. Can you tell me what length screw should it be as a replacement of stock extruder screw?

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Thanks and great question. I can measure for you when I get back home so you have an exact figure but you'd need one about 7mm longer than the stock one. The one I had on hand was a bit too long actually and I had to use a little spacer to make it work.

I found that if you drilled with a 7/32 drill bit into the extruder connector you could widen the hole enough to fit the stock screw head deep enough to catch the threads. Maybe a mod to that piece would make this easier, but that worked well on the spot

Good to know! I will make that hole a little larger in to help resolve this issue. Using stock hardware was always the intention. Thank you.

Comments deleted.

Hi, which chain link do you use? i cant find any chain links STL in the files only the extruder and hotend stuff

It’s in the remix section. ;) Here you go: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060

Ender 3 Cable Chain

Thank you very much for your help. And respond.

Absolutely! Hope your print comes out great. Enjoy.

The chain link hinge on the roller piece fails under stress when X rollers in the home position. I printed PLA at 20% infill. Will 30% be strong enough to last out should this part be thicker?

I have a similar issue, I think it could be fixed by making the hot end link have a sharp turn towards the right, so the cable chain doesn't collide with the frame of the printer. FedorSosnin, something you'd be willing to tweak and let me test?

To be clear, my prints don't fail, but the hot end link pops off when the x-axis homes.

Josh, please check the latest files. I have beefed up both links. Print them with at least 30% infill and you shouldn't have any issues.

Can you please take a photo of the failure so it’s super clear what is happening? I’d love a chance to make this better. I have been using it non stop for a few days now with no issues. I did print it at 30% infill but it would be helpful to see what yours is doing to fail.

When the chain is not attached, the force from the cable on the hinge is upwards and to the right -- see [pull direction.png]. Looking at [shear.png] it splits between the layers. I don't think that section is thick enough for infill so printing the part in a different orientation might be most durable.

I've arranged [workaround.png] to relieve most of the stress.

@joshc: I just went ahead and tried out the workaround idea you had but just as suspected, the issue is when the hot end moves far right. I have a feeling that the issues you encountered were because of a thin print. Try giving it more infill and printing the updated files. Like I mentioned earlier, I have hours of prints with this setup with no issues.

I'm in the middle of a different print and testing out 0.1mm layer height instead of 0.2, and 195c instead of 190 for my PLA to see what effect it has on part strength. Looking at Cura, the section that breaks for me doesn't have any infill. Will print your v4 soon!

Sounds good! Let me know how it goes. :)

Josh, that workaround is really interesting! How does it look when the hot end is all the way to the right on the x-axis? Once my print finishes, I'll give that a go and see how it does.