Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

LulzBot TK-0 3D Printer

by AlephObjects Sep 29, 2012
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Es que je pourrais avoir plus de photos pour le montage s'il vous plait?

It would be nice if this wasn't a bad excuse for "open source". No BOM, no instructions, and getting the updated files requires crawling through an ftp server and praying you can find something that isn't precompiled g-code. "Aleph Objects" has guaranteed I'll never buy anything from them. damn shame too. There's a few hundred dollars in parts I would have gladly bought building this (heatbed, rambo, power supply, etc.).

Hotbed help needed! Hey guys, I am new here and need to make a heated bed of 800x600mm. I can design the physical part but I need to check some stuff. For example am I looking for a specific cross sectional area for the tracks or just a total resistance (which I guess I can work out from the length of each track and the resistance/mm2 of the copper? Any advice would be appreciated..... :)

I have just about everything ordered. $750 so far. There are just a few things I did not include in the cost - like the 300x300mm glass (I will use a $7 piece of Garrolite 1/32 thickness) and wire. Also I will get the power supply and power cable from an old PC. I am going to say that one can do it for $800. Part of the problem is that I often had to order 100 pieces of hardware when the BOM called for 3 or 4.

Anyone know the Misumi part number for the black extrusion? How many slots? Also, which T-nuts? Thank you.

Has anyone priced out the BOM to see what an individual can realistically get all of the parts for, including shipping fees?

You had to "tune" the Marlin software to get the 250 mm/sec speed? Are those tunings available? Will they be available? Did you get 250 mm/sec from an SD card or over USB?

Where can I find a copy of the latest parts BOM mentioned in the Changelog? I am sure it is right in front of my face, but I don't see it. I'd like to start ordering parts and am going to make this my 3D printer at work. It has a more professional look than my Prusa Version1.5.

I started printing various parts of the build.

Stanted with the extruder parts.

I will have to look to get all the hardware needed... ;)

Very nice design.. i like it

Have you looked into using OpenBeam extrusions?

They use standard 3mm nuts instead of special retainer nuts.

The extrusion sizes appear to be currently limited to 15mm x 15mm, but it may be worth looking into.

I would imagine that the TK0 design could be re-worked with 15mm instead of 20mm...



It could be reworked to use that, I presume, and you are more than welcome to do so. But one consideration in the design is easily sourced parts and a reliable supply chain. Waiting for kickstarters doesn't really cut it. That said, I wish the project the best of luck and I hope they become major producers. :)


Penn Engineering also makes these PEMS. Ask for "Bulletin SI" The M3x0.5 on page SI-4 is the same PEM shown in the video.

These should be available worldwide from any Penn Engineering distributor.

The Representative in Germany is:

KVT-Koenig GmbH
Max-Eyth Strasse 14
89186 Illerrieden, Germany
phone:+49(0)7306 782-0
fax:+49(0)7306 2251
Peter Lürkens

Here: http://www.pemnet.com/fastening_products/pdf/sidata.pdfhttp://www.pemnet.com/fastenin... The equivalent part is probably model number IUBB-M3-1, which has a length of 3.81mm, and a material hole size of 5.05mm.

any place to buy them in small amounts? You can find lots of manufacturers out there but they normally don't sell to end users in 100 or 500pcs.

I found some in the UK where i ordered 100 yesterday but they're a bit smaller - guess i have to resize the holes then - but i'll wait until they arrive. 

I ordered them on ebay from http://www.ebay.de/itm/230860087036?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_589wt_1002http://www.ebay.de/itm/2308600...

Details can be found and http://insertsdirect.cominsertsdirect.com

I think my reply got lost...

This link has a vendor stock list in the US:


The vendor DB Roberts sells them at a minimum quantity of 1, and price is $66 per 5000:


I was able to add 100 to my shopping cart, and the cost was about $6.80 USD.

I believe DB Roberts may ship international.

For a UK supplier, you may want to contact Zygology for a quote - though I don't know if they have a minimum quantity:


 This link has a few distributors for that part: http://www.pemnet.com/inv/inventorylist.php?PartNum=IUBB-M3-1http://www.pemnet.com/inv/inve...

The distributor DB Roberts appears to sell in minimum quantities of 1 - the cost is $66 for a box of 5000.

I added 100 to my shopping cart, and it calculated it as $6.68.


They appear to currently have ~1800 in stock.

They (dbroberts) do indeed ship to germany but only with UPS expedite 3-5 days which is 130$ haha :)

Thanks anyways. I'll look after the other links.

 KVT-Koenig appears to be a PEM distributor in Germany:


May want to try them and see.

Does anyone have a rough idea where to get this thermal brass inserts internationally? I ordered with McMaster but they don't ship to germany and it looks like those stuff is hard to find elsewhere.

Having a manufacturers name of these special or other fitting inserts would be great. I think those inserts technology is great but we need to have them globally available or it would be a nogo for this printer.

We have the bill of materials here:

For the MPN (manufacturer's part number) that field is currently blank for the "Heatset Insert M3-5. 3.8mm length (Pack of 100)", so we don't have that information at present. We actively pursue obtaining that information for every part. When we have it, the spreadsheet will be updated. I presume these will be available in the EU somewhere.

Here is a photo of the bag they came in, but it doesn't provide any hints to the manufacturer:


When we have the info, it will be public and in our BOM.



Thanks for Replying, Jeff. I've already seen the photo but that didn't help so far. I at least found some manufacturers produce or sell to the EU and contacted them regarding distributor addresses. Unfortunately we don't have something like McMaster over here - some smaller screw shops but nothing that is as well sorted as McMaster.

Also it seems these heat inserts aren't well known in the hobbyist scene so maybe i gotta find another way to fix things on the TK-0 at first.

I've already printed aronud 50-60% of the parts for a first build - extrusion is ordered and everything else is here. Guess i'm going to start playing with it by next week or something.


The diameter of these is 4.8mm  It needs to be closer to 5mm or you can rezise the holes.  Penn Engineering has these workdwide.  Ask for the SI bulletin.

Great! I'm glad to hear you are building one. If you have updates/corrections to the BOM or anything else, please note it here or mail them to [email protected] so we can get the files updated.

Edit: When inserting PEMs, you do not need to get too hot. There is no need to go above 230C, and it probably can be done well below that. I don't have an exact temp handy. But be sure you aren't getting the ABS so hot that you produce black smoke, which is not good.

Also note the video linked below, showing how to insert PEMs:


If you want to tickle your brain, think about how easily a RepRap could be modified to insert PEMs....



Karandex, we have the calibration test files we use here:


The burnin.gco runs first, then the 100mm cross to make sure it is accurate. Then it prints an octopus, which ships with the printer.

For development, we use these files to abuse the machines to see if they will be robust enough. Note: this runs at 800mm/sec for a 300mm x 300mm bed, so be careful running it directly:

More test files are in that directory as well.

What firmware are you running to get 800mm/s?

Thanks for reply. but these things are used to test the machine. not calibrate. i was asking how do you determine best temps. accelerations, jerk. do you use any other settings other than estep to calibrate machine like extrusion multiplier and if you do then how.

All of the AO-100 machines have the same firmware settings except their esteps, which is individual per machine. You can see the firmware config that ships with each machine here:

The calibration of esteps is just done the "traditional" way of having someone stand there, hit "extrude 100mm of filament", measuring it and revising the esteps until it is exactly 100mm used. The extrusion multiplier we just leave at 1 (in general).

The temperature settings are just what we have come to use over the past year+ of running a large cluster of 28 printers. Though of course, the temperature depends on what filament is used. We use 230C as a starting point for ABS, and 180C or so for PLA (which varies much more than ABS).

For acceleration and jerk, we have not set these systematically, but more through trial an error from running so many machines. We have room for improvement in those settings--they can definitely be more refined.

Can you share with us what procesdure you go through to calibrate your machines like AO-100 ?

The following videos show the LulzBot TK-0 3d printer building it's first object -  a 201.84mm tall column with nubs on the outside and a v shape structure on the inside.  

 The column was designed to shake, rattle and shimmy the robot to make it crash.   It was intended to be something that could not be printed because of the height, complex direction changes, number of layers, vibration, etc.  

The entire column is printed at 200mm/sec perimeter and 250mm/sec fill at .12mm layers.  The Marlin firmware was tuned to permit the print envelope and higher speeds.  Slic3r (slic3r-mswin-x64-0-9-2) was used to slice the STL model with 2 perimeters  80% fill, and rectilinear fill pattern.It prints like crazy and doesn't crash - TK printed 1682 .12mm layers.

The 100mm mark measured 99.95mm and the 150mm mark was 150.01mm.  Bear in mind this video is an uncalibrated and untuned robot making it's very first print.  I should also point out that I bent the right hand Z lead screw on purpose to measure lead screw error transmission into printed object.

Test start - http://youtu.be/zZLMHlbfm_shttp://youtu.be/zZLMHlbfm_s

Test end -  http://youtu.be/L66ICJAWx1Qhttp://youtu.be/L66ICJAWx1Q

would be nice if you could hold the iphone in landscape next time so we would see much more of everything :)

We'll shoot some new videos in the next week or two with a Nikon DSLR.

The LulzBot TK-0 3D printer uses thermal set PEMs for 3mm nuts. 

This hardware may be new to the RepRap community so I created a youtube video tutorial.  (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VDVvFSR4EC4)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v... for those who may be new to thermal set PEMs.I have been asked why all the trouble when you can just use a nut.  First, when you build a lot of RepRaps every day there is a lot of extra time lost fumbling around with tiny nuts.  Second, because printed parts are not perfect the loose hardware can either spin (if feature is too large), or crack (if feature is too small).  Third, they are very strong and assemble much faster.

The tools to set the PEMS is a soldering iron and a tip.  They are very inexpensive from McMaster Carr or you can make your own tip if you already have a soldering iron.  The McMaster Carr stock codes are:  Soldering Iron: 662A696  and 3mm tip: 92160A119.

I for one welcome (y)our future megagnurporation.