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Mrheathpants

The Pigeon -semiauto magfed nerf pistol-

by Mrheathpants Oct 12, 2018
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What is the new hole in the frame above the trigger for?

Mostly aesthetics, but also to hopefully help dissipate some of the heat that the motors generate

Have you put one together with the grip rev system? Pretty neat system for those whom prefer a "Rev trigger".

I tested a prototype to get a feel for how it is to click, and how ergonomic it is, but I never actually put the whole system together. In theory, it should work just fine, so long as you get the switch pressing where you like it

I may just build one for fun after my first pigeon build is done (just waiting for motor delivery, super stoked) . I will post it here when i get one put together.

After printing and building my Pigeon with a hardware Kit from Suns Guns. I am generally very happy with the Pigeon but, I have a few notes and requests.

  1. Additional room below the cage would be greatly appreciated. After folding the motor tabs down I still had to solder on the side of the tabs and spend 2 hours tweaking my solder joints till it fit.
  2. A slot for the tab protector would be a great addition such that the height of the tab protector from the trigger is set. This would help prevent some jamming of the trigger.
    3.Slide catch doesn't seem to be really spring loaded. Im not sure if that was intentional or not, I know that there are designs and most likely guides on how to make printed springs from pla. Aswell the screws I received in my hardware kit were all to long and pocked through the catch.
  3. It would be nice to have a attachment points under the battery compartment. This could be achieved by having a thicker wall to the compartment and chamfered or recessed screw holes added. Then a rail that can be screwed into the lower. That would allow Tac lights or lasers.
    5.Is the barrel supposed to friction fit in? I had to print the barrel and battery cover for both my friend and myself as neither barrel really wanted to stay in.

Thank you for designing this pistol I am looking forward to using it as my new sidearm in wars.

Thanks for the feedback! I appreciate both your support, and your criticisms, and I'll take them into consideration for future revisions.

To address a couple points, first, I've talked with Derrikk, and we're working out the proper length of screws for the smaller screw ports, so thtat future kits will work a bit smoother.
The slide lock is not intended to be springloaded, just a manual stop so that it can stay open. It could be, but then every time you pull it back, it would lock, and that wasn't strictly what I wanted.
The barrel is supposed to be glued in, and that's part of why I added the barrel guide with barrel part... to smooth out that process.

I will look into adding a small slot for the tab protector. There was one before, but it was so small that it was very difficult to remove supports form it, so I just made the new protector friction fit. have some kind of stopper for it, one way or another would be a good idea. Unfortunately, creating additional room under the motor cage will essentially mean a complete redesign. And finally, for a tac rail, I will possibly make a piece that can be screwed in that will have a rail, if that's something you're looking for.

I think if you add a chamfer to the slot to ease in printing and a matching chamfer to the tab protector that should remove the need for supports in the slot. Yes I meant adding a tac rail, that tac lights ect. can then be attached to.
Also I forgot to mention but there is an error in the trigger stl that results in 2 cylindrical shaped voids. https://imgur.com/a/nenTEea

I will possibly work out some kind of tac rail attachment at some point. And I'll add a slot of some sort to the next handle revisions when those go up
Those cylinders were an old failed attempt at making the trigger into two pieces... but I'm surprised they're still there...

what is the size of printer needed to build this?

The smallest bed, at this time, is the prusa mk3 bed size, which according to their website is 25 x 21 x 21 cm or 9,84 x 8,3 x 8,3 in... so that's the smallest you can print this rotated onto the bed to fit

thanks. a bit big, but thanks for making it open source anyways. when i get a bigger printer it will be reasonably high on my to-print list. below your MHP-15 of course.

I managed to fit it on my Mk2.5 Prusa machine witch I believe is 20cm Cube Just had to rotate the parts

I use m3d. Too small.

Bruh. I added short files. Have fun

I couldn't find the ones that have the short files. Btw my printer is 120 mm

They are in the "split pieces" zip folder. I don't know if they'll fit on that, or not, but they're a lot smaller than before

Thanks for the work, but i tried to fit them and they wouldn't fit. Oh well.

Thanks. I will have to find a source for your wheels! This will be awesome!

I have tried printing the left half of the left handed slide multiple times, but every time I print, it ends up like the picture (Purple). I've sliced with slic3rPE, cura, and simplify3d, and have printed multiple times with each, in different locations and rotations. has anyone else had any problems with that specific piece?

Can you please move parts into folders based on version number and variance? There are 2 different handles uploaded and Im unsure witch parts I need for the latest version

I'll work on that sometime... as for which ones, they're the newest ones from november, they also have holes in them on the front

How can I choose the electronic devices? And where's the magazine?

It doesn't use electronic devices other than switches and motors. The magwell is designed to use JET blasters' Katana mag, but it'll take (any?) of the printed options out there.

KaThanha Mags
Kabana mag
by Tobu
pigeon pecker mag
by Tobu
Vorpal Mag Kit

what is the difference in length between the shot and regular length slide? also does the short version require a separate handle to be printed for it? Just trying to picture how it looks from the files is kinda hard. Awesome work though! already made one and cant wait to print off a second one

I don't see a file for 7.1 Slide Left that is not LH

I missed that one somehow. As for the other question I saw, which seems to be gone, v7 and 7.1 are totally interchangeable and will work together. The v7.1 short slides will work with a v6 handle, but the barrel guide and orange tip are different on v7 so you'll need those too.

One more question then i promise to leave you alone for a little. Hahaha! What is the difference between files "Barrel guide" and "Single Barrel Guide"?

Single barrel guide looks to be the newest, so you'll want that for v7.1 slides. older slides, you'll want the other barrel guide piece

Yea i didn't read the update first so i deleted my first comment. Shame on me! Thanks for clearing it up tho! P.S. New files/Model way cool.

Comments deleted.

I'm having a problem where the pusher is being pushed up into the pusher mount, causing a lot of friction that makes it hard to retract the trigger - would using more grease solve this, or is there something I'm missing?

What do you mean by pushed up? You may need to sand the pusher and mount down.. they should slide with little to no catching. More grease will definitely help, but they shouldn't need grease to function reasonably okay

I actually thought it was a problem of oversanding the pusher and pusher mount - they slide without catching, but when I try and push the flippy arm forward, the slide of the pusher under the groove in the pusher mount tries to rotate out of the groove. It might be that the flippy arm is catching on pusher, I'll try sanding that down and see if it fixes it. I can also post a picture in about an hour if the problem persists. Also, thanks for the quick responses!

Try sanding the round part that goes in the flippy arm some more, till it has no catches, as well as the slot in the arm. I've had this problem, now that I understand. Also make sure the flippy arm is not warped, and that when screwed in the pivot, it doesn't pull away from the pusher mount at all.

Why did the new slides taken down?

I realized it was both an incomplete set, and that there was actually a pretty minor (but significant in some ways) barrel alignment problem I need to fix. I'll get them back up asap

Ahh good man! always testing and tinkering i love it! Thanks for the update.

any chance of an assembly video similar to what you did for the mhp15?

I plan to very soon

Hi there Mt Pants,

We have a slight problem here is Australia, that the silhouette of this blaster is too gun-like

any chance you or someone can remix this so its more Nerf friendly

I would love it if someone did. I tried to make as toy like as I could, but finding the balance between the form factor it needed and tpylike aesthetics was, to be quite honest, the most difficult design aspect by a lot, and I never did get it quite there. If printed in orange or similarly bright colors, I don't think it's any more gun like than, say, a stryfe with a cosmetic kit, but that's not always enough for some groups. It's something that I've been thinking about, and will keep in mind, but I definitely don't have a time frame for when that kind of revision might happen

thank you for responding,
i know what im asking is a pain, since your design is already legal in the US

I'm thinking on it, and working out if I can redesign the slide to be more toylike. Bright colors will always be a must on this design, regardless, because the function requires a fairly realistic silhouette.

What support settings do you use for the prints? mainly do you have printing supports just for the build plate or everywhere selected? Im trying to keep the orientation you have saved for the prints but some of the prints like the slides and the cage would have a lot of support material on the print that has to be removed.

The slides shouldn't have too much, if they're oriented top down on the plate. And yeah there is a fair amount of supports on this, unfortunately. You could rotate the cage face up, rather than sideways if you wanted, I chose this way because it gives a nicer finish for the motors to mount and the screws to hold them. The handles are what's really going to get you on supports.
I've found that 70 degree and 10% infill on the supports keeps them to a minimum in only the most critical places

I know you don't recommend cutting the pieces to print them, but are there certain areas on the frame and slide that should definitely be avoided if you don't have a printer with a large enough bed to print this?

If you cut through the middles of the area where the switch goes, you'll have a lot more surface area to mount things together. The slides probably need some added material to hold them together wherever you decide to split them. Possibly glue and pins could work?

Pins and glue might be possible in a couple of areas I'm looking at. I'll have to try it and see. If Pins don't work, it might be possible to friction weld the seam, though I don't know how strong that joint would be offhand.

That is seriously Realistic looking! Great Job!
What magazine(s) do you recommend?
Do you need something with an angled feed lip?

Nope! Normal Katana mags work great (which are what I've tested) but in theory, any of the printable alternatives should work too. There is a minor performance loss because of feeding the darts at an angle, but the ergonomics and compatibility were worth it to me

Thanks for testing that out! I'll have to make an angled adapter when I have time for the Vector now

For left handed users what do you mean by flip them horizontally? do they need to be mirrored? I'm confused.

So you'll take all the parts, except the two slides, and when you're slicing them, go to the left in cura and mirror them.
The slides have lettering on them, so you don't want to mirror those, and that's why I've added those as specific parts.

Ok that's what I figured it meant, but wasn't completely sure. Thanks for the clarification!