Linkmail is my take on a NASA Style chainmail type fabric that you can actually link together and therefor are not limited to small patches of it and there is no need to snip them if you wanted to link them anyways. Its beveled and tapered tops not only look cool but also help keep the tops from inhibiting flex in the concave direction. It is very flexible and as long as detect thin walls is off an end piece is indistinguishable from a center piece. It is incredibly flexible and its shape lets an endless amount of tessellations and geometries be built from the links. The links are also customizable via the magical powers of OpenSCAD and Thingiverse customizer so if they don't work the problem can be tweaked into oblivion and any constraining factor can be dealt with.
IMPORTANT NOTICE: THIS IS INCREDIBLY WIP AND 90% OF THE PARAMETERS CAN HAVE EXTREME OR UNINTENDED EFFECTS! But their there and that's whats important.
If you prefer to follow the development more closely I have also put it on GitHub at https://github.com/puzzlecube/Linkmail and knowing myself I will probably keep that updated more than the Thingiverse files. Consider the master branch on git as the development version and Thingiverse as stable.
More information and insight can be found within the README and the OpenSCAD file.
TODO: more shapes and more reliability.
Linkmail is intended to be created with so PLEASE, I implore you to show me what you do with this.
Doesn't matter, they are so small it makes no difference.
Blue and/or Clear (have been tested)
Unfortunately I've been unable to get these to print without supports so once they're done its best to break out some tiny pliers.
STRINGING IS YOUR WORST ENEMY WITH THESE! IF YOU EXPERIENCE STRINGING AT ALL THESE CAN BECOME A NIGHTMARE TO ASSEMBLE VERY QUICKLY AND YOU WILL PROBABLY BREAK SOME AS A RESULT!!!!!
Support removal: The annoying part
These are so little I personally have found the best tool for the job is a pair of round tipped pliers designed for working with beads, They clear off the supports quite well compared to my fat fingers.
For the caps I have found it works best to push the round tipped pliers into the pin hole in the caps to make sure there is no debris and that the hole is open enough for the pin to go in. If you print caps with the skirts on them i find they can easily be cut off with cutter pliers.
Make sure if you print caps with skirts to remove the skirts as they are only intended to help stop the edges from curling up sometimes
Another note: pliers are not required for the design to function they just make post processing less annoying.
Assembly: The fun part!
Once you've made sure there is NO stringing in the way it is time to seal up the link and press the caps onto the chains. If they've been perfectly cleaned up they should tangibly and sometimes audibly pop into place and keep the links linked until the cap is removed.
This should be printable with any combination of slicer and printer with the right settings however the design leverages some unique features of Slic3r and Slic3r Prusa Edition. Namely the modifier meshes. Linkmail_caps_skirts*.stl is NOT meant to be printed on its own nor is it part of the assembly it is specifically support material that is seperate so custom parameters can be used if needed, otherwise it can be combined with the normal part in any slicer to get the basics of its intended purpose of combating curling edges.
Lots and lots of trial and error. It took about a month of tweaking coding and tuning to get these things to print right with my setup.
The code is all broken up into "modules" so it reads better and I've made it have way too many parameters.