This Mistcutter is an ambitious project I engaged in to see if I could design my own tiles for tabletop RPGs. The tiles are roughly designed around the Wyloch 1.25" tile system, but they are not 100% compatible with True Tiles, which is what they are closest to (they are the same height at the floor, but the walls are a scoche too high). I am not (at the moment) releasing the files I use because I have a few tweaks I would like to make, and I very much respect Curufin and Wyloch, and all of their hard work. This system is OpenLock compatible as well!
These were printed in black and orange PLA, and painted to look like wood using cheap acrylics found at the local big-box. I admit that I have had some trouble with curling on the tiles, and a lot of this is the tremendous force that the tiles place on the Fleks3-D plates I use. I may have corrected this recently.
Piloting the ship (using a thaumaturgical helm inspired by the basket in Lyndon Hardy's 'Master of the Five Magics') is the lovely embermage, Faina (model provided by Wizards of the Coast). Other members of the crew are Rooka, the dragonborn paladin (Wizards of the Coast); Daniel, the half-elf fop (Wizards of the Coast); and Eirfast, the Karhu Berzerker (Ill Gotten Games).
A number of open-source bits were used in making this, including the wings OBJ from Ill Gotten Games, the lion head from Jigs and more (which I will add as soon as I look them up!)
Also used some Inland Orange for parts. Just add a priming layer or two of matte black acrylic, and you are good to go. Some of the smaller parts (specifically the cannons and the figurehead) are printed like minis (slower, .04 layer height, supports everywhere.
Because I get elephant foot, and can't turn off the supports for the little openlock ports, I usually have to remove all of the support structures carefully because of the thin bottom plate of the openlock ports. Usually, the is achieved by using a tiny screwdriver to cut through the horizontal supports, and then crushing it inward with a flathead screwdriver. Usually this is enough to pop it out of the hole without needing pliers.
Then a flat file can be used, filing from side of the tile to bottom and then scraping along that line removes the elephant foot and smooths the edge of the tile.
If using non-black filament, hit it with a couple of coats of matte black to prime it!
What this is:
I saw the Wyloch crafting videos, and the case he made regarding the 1.25" grid was something I had been struggling with in other systems (especially the propagation issue when adding walls and the low walls to compensate for dynamically-posed minis. It took a little work adjusting the Triplex OpenLock connectors, but it improved my skills in TinkerCad immensely.
My skills were further tested when attempting the bilges, because I wanted that subtle cue that it was a boat. That was a handful of difficult lessons, and I am still not completely sure I have it right.
Currently, I have two tile textures (stone and wood), and two wall textures (stone and tudor).
Placing decor so it does not move!
You can't see it, but I use a touch of the blue sticky-tack one uses to adhere posters to walls to set some of the smaller pieces in place (the helm, the engines, the hatch and hold square).
I designed the ship so that it keeps all the loose bits together when stacked up as a ship. In fact, the sails and cannons can be removed from their ports and placed inside as well to reduce the form factor even more for storage.
I also used wall clips that are oddly-shaped because I was making walls for those who like walls on their tiles. These pieces could also be stored aboard, if I had made a wall texture that belonged on the ship...
The decorative elements come off, and the tiles can be separated and rebuilt into things like an Inn (with a few Tudor Wall clips and spacers - which I will post as soon as I have it finished!), or a few small hovels.