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marteinnsig

CR-10S - Bondtech - Mosquito - Noctua - TH3D EZ-ABL - Direct drive mount v2

by marteinnsig Oct 13, 2018
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what are the X and Y setting for this?

define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 40 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]

define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]

define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]

define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 20

Sorry does anyone know if the mosquito hotend sits the same as the stock hotend or micro swiss?

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does the mosquito sit in the same the stock hotend and micro swiss?

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Hæ, - no , the mosquito has a E3D V6 style adapter, and is totally different mount than the stock hotend/microswitch hotend.

thank you very much for your reply

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What are the ABL offsets?

define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 40 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]

define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]

define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]

define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 20

Can you make a BLTouch version?

I second this....

Hey again...

So I'm going to say the fang is 4mm too close to the gantry for my E3D. So the nozzle is 4mm too close to the fang tip farthest from the Y stepper. Given that you use a Bondtech I don't get why the Y axis could be so far off.

The the bottom of the fangs are 8mm from the bed when the nozzle is hard against it. So it needs to drop to whatever clearance you were using to get the air on the nozzle. I'm guessing you were using around 2mm to 3mm bed clearance. The picture looks like maybe more but at the moment all it would cool is the heat block.

The fangs are 5mm too short so the nozzle aligns with the far end of the air vents. There is some room in the throat but I would just stretch the tips. I don't understand the X axis being off either. The Z is the only thing that could vary with the hot end. With the same extruder the filament path should be the same???

Otherwise the mount seems fine for my E3D with Bondtech and pancake stepper. Printed in Solutech white PETG this time.

The fang in it's current form also won't mount because of interference from the the lower gantry roller nylock nut. If it were adjusted as I describe it would barely fit resting against the nut, as far as I can tell.

How is the fan duct height adjusted?

That's looking a lot better. For the sake of universality I suggest keeping E3Dv6 users in mind. The way the Mosquito mounts I think you can accommodate either pretty easily. And the sensor mount should be modular to accommodate various types as well as none. It looks like there is room for a heat sink on my pancake stepper. I bet you would get better part cooling if you did the round version as a fang with air directed only from the tips. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2175956

You are a mad man.. that's looking really good my friend. I hope it prints without too many issues.

Radial Fan Fang
by Lion4H

Thanks, - If I get an extra E3D hotend I'm more than likely to make a mount for it as well :),
For the pancake stepper, - if the heat sink remains in the same volume as a normal stepper does, then it should fit, - the blower mount is pretty close the the back part of the original NEMM17 stepper I have. -
Regarding the part cooling, - would you have the openings at an 180° angle, so they are faceing each other? - Current circualr design has the openings open from back to each side up to 45° (90° gap between each arm)

I'm currently testing the semi-circular design vs the direct airflow duckt I included also in this release, - the direct one is supricingly good as well.

I believe the best is directly opposed ducts pointed down between 25 and 35 degrees (ish). If you test with a tray of water under the nozzle you want a circular pattern below the nozzle like in the Fan Fang video. I think the goal is to use as little air as possible in exactly the right spot. Most designs use too much air flow. Even with my fang duct if I remove the silicone sock my printer freaks out thinking the heater has failed. The Petsfang Bullseye looks like a decent design, but again I guess it blows more air than you want in places you probably don't want or need it.

yea, I'm doing testing now, - made a 3rd design,
https://twitter.com/3DPIceland/status/1055171500150534144 - here is a screenshot of it, -it's printing at the moment and I'll upload it as well here if it works out :)

Hasn't the fang design proven to be the best for part cooling? My Ender 3 is on order and I'm looking for mount options. I have my Bondtech and an E3Dv6, but the Mosquito looks very attractive. On a CR10 I would think you want the Mosquito Magnum.

Hi. Thanks for your comment.

  • from the release date of the design, I have found that I needed to improve 2 things, - Hot-End Cooling and Part cooling - I'm working on said things, and will update the design here when ready :), so watch this thing for updates. -

Yeah, I can see you have a tight layout, but the air isn't getting where it needs to be. My 2 cents worth here... The hot end cooler is a perfect layout for a blower fan instead of an axial. I know you like Noctua, but a blower would be a way better option. And pretty much all part cooler fans should be centrifugal too because they are way better at pressurizing a chamber. You can use various methods to lower the fan rpm so it is just as quiet as a Noctua. You have by far the best extruder mount I have found for Creality gantries, and I'm using yours without question on my Ender 3. I will not likely be using a bed level sensor. If I do it will probably be a Precision Piezo. I have one on my CoreXY. And it looks like your mount will work with an E3Dv6, so I'll be starting with that. Keep up the fantastic work.

Too bad Noctua hasn't turned their attention to centrifugal fans :-(

Another tip... I use a piece of piano wire through a piece of PTFE added to my wire bundle to control the loom. I think it is better for the cheap Chinese wiring than a cable chain. And I use the same split spiral plastic wrap you do. I use this setup on my CoreXY. I don't have the Creality yet to see if it's actually workable on it.

BTW, I have been using Taulman 910 to print my printer parts. It's not as stiff, but it's tough and temp resistant. I want to be able to enclose my printer. I'll be interested to see if there will be a liquid cooled Mosquito. I use a pancake stepper with the Bondtech so I need a heat sink on the back of the motor.

So you are blocking the Bondtech arm from being able to open fully? The wire loom stud appears to be right in the way. As well as the mount plate. I imagine it eventually hits the metal plate, but it should probably be allowed to open at least that far. ??

thanks, and thanks for the info, - I'm trying my best to make use of the 40x40x20 Noctua fan for partcooling, - but I'm starting to accept that is is not the best option :), - I have a extra part-cooling fan for my prusa, and I might change over to that one , - Currently I have designed and printed out 8 different fan mounts and still is not happy :)

Have you tried the water trick to see where the air flow concentrates around the nozzle? Generally it shows that the fang design is always the clear winner. I wonder how bad the new Prusa design is actually. You would think they would use the best option available.