A case for the PCA9685 16-Channel Servo Driver board from adafruit and its cheap chinese clones (see note below).
The bottom part comes in two versions: a plain standalone version and one with connectors for the fischertechnik construction toy system.
The top part fits both versions and comes with several options, implemented as punch-through holes:
- A circular hole (r=5 mm) for the big capacitator preinstalled in the chinese versions, and missing by default from the adafruit version. The adafruit tutorial explains why and when you can leave out the capacitator. In my chinese board, I replaced the default 1000µF with a smaller 220µF.
- Two small circular holes (r=1,6 mm) for fischertechnik female jacks (flush sleeves, Bundhüsen) as alternatives to the power terminals. Solder them to the power terminals on the backside of the board with two short pieces of wire.
- Two small square holes (3,2x3,2 mm) for a power LED light guide. Left position is for the current chinese or old adafruit version, right position for the current adafruit version. Print the light guide with transparent filament in a lying position for best results.
- I forgot: the bottom part also has a punch-through option for chaining multiple boards (16,0x4,0 mm).
On demand, simply punch the according hole out at post-print stage, using a small knife, a screw driver, or a drill of suitable size. Alternatively, you can use TinkerCAD or some other 3D-tool to punch them out digitally at pre-print stage.
Note and warning: I learned that the original PCA9685 board is an adafruit design only after having ordered a couple of boards from chinese ebay sellers. Although the chinese version is much cheaper, be warned that some models lack the reverse polarity protection feature from the original, even if they claim otherwise on the backside. Also, some clones have a different layout with non-centered power terminals. So I strongly recommend buying from and supporting the great folks from adafruit, even if my pictures show the cheap chinese version.
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Find my other fischertechnik designs here.
I copied the idea for the two colored labeling from this design by Alex_Sashka. Instructions for a black/white print:
Labeling.stl at a defined x/y-Position on your build plate (e.g. x=0 and y=0) with white filament. This will only work well with perfect first layer adhesion and no stringing, increasing print temperature and decreasing print speed might help you with that.
- Remove skirts (if you used them) and the outer frame, leaving only the labels on the build plate (see pictures).
- Change to black filament.
Top.stl and turn it topside down (180°) around the y-axis. Place it in exactly the same position as in step 1.
- Print and pray. If everything works alright, the first layer will elegantly fit around the already printed parts and weld them with the top part. Nice!