by n6sxb Oct 18, 2018
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I have a question, will this drawer fit to Ender 3 Pro?

Yes, my Front_Drawer_4_Ender_3_Pro is designed for the Ender 3 Pro, with it's 40mm y-axis rail. It is designed as a nominal fit. As such it has been very tight for some and slides right in for others. You might want to take carefull measurements and scale the print for a fit you like.


what have you done with the ribon cable for the screen? is it fixed behind the box?

Yes, it is held to the 40x40 rail with clips.

I too am curious

Made this on my Ender 3. Looks great, but the size isn't really right for the Ender 3. Its too loose in the gap there. Of course, now that I've actually READ the notes, I see its for the Ender 3 PRO. A sure fire case of "RTFM" disease kicked in (Read The F...ing Manual, that is). Great work! When the ender 3 (non pro) files hit the 'verse, I'll be sure to print it.

Did that back in November of 2018 when someone asked then.

Take a look at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3248293

by n6sxb

I think the width of the space between the center and right rails varies among Ender 3 pros. My first attempt came out about a millimeter too wide. I set the X axis scale factor to 98% (narrowing only the width of the drawer) and the second one came out nicely. Slides smoothly within the rails.

Thank you!

Sorry you printed one and had to toss it. That is why I include the CAD files, in this case Fusion 360. I'm more than happy to provide other CAD formats on request. Even without a CAD model, one can measure distances between two features using their slicing software. The process is simple. Rotate the object so that the dimension of concern is in the Z direction. Then slice the object with layer thickness that represents the resolution one needs. Then preview the layers and record the Z dimensions of the two features. The difference is the dimension of interest.

Kudos to you for using the single axes scaling feature to fix it for your machine on the second print.

Some of my best learned lessons come from painful experiences. For instance, I learned back in 1981 to back up my coding work after loosing 8 hours worth of Assembly code for my TRS-80 Color Computer. My left hand is now trained to hit "ctlr-s" without even thinking of it, it just happens at every break in the work. Most of you will need to Wiki the TRS-80 Color Computer, giggles :-).

I'm happy you like my design and find it useful to you. Makes my heart go pitter-pat.

Thank you for the tips. No worries about the double print. I like watching the printer go... You must be as old as I am - I had a (monochrome) TRS-80 too...

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Beautiful design. How I wish this is for the regular Ender3. =)

I'll work one up for you and my Ender3 brothers and sisters. Check back soon :-).

Awesome! Can't wait.

I put it as "Front_Box_4_Ender_3".

Let me know if I screwed anything up. I just took the Ender_3_Pro version and moved the Y-axis rail interface to the left by 10mm. So it should work ok.

Will print it tomorrow morning, thank you! =)

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After removal of supports, my front drawer did go in VERY snug, but fits on my new Ender 3 Pro received 11-15-2018
The item was printed in cheap PLA on my Original Prusa MK3, which I have dimensionally calibrated.
Thanks for this very nice, easily accessible drawer

73 N9OZR

Glad you like it.

73 N6SXB

...Printed, did not fit my ender 3 pro. The non-tnut version. After painstakingly disassembling the printer to get this in, it was WAY too tight to actually move. And bent from the force of reassembly.

Sorry Harry. Mine fit snug but after working it in, it slides very nicely. PLA takes to filing, scraping and sanding very well so don't throw that part out. I also included the models in three different formats, so you can modify it to fit your printer if sanding doesn't work for you.

You should only need to remove the Y-axis belt tensioner and the display bracket to slide this part in. Sure hope you didn't disassemble your printer.