LM2596 and LM2596S Buck converter tool-less snap-fit enclosure - Ender, CR-10, 2020

by FedorSosnin Oct 19, 2018
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Hi I am looking for some help. I have been trying to print the "LM2596S-Base-v2", but I always end up with the same problem.
The side hexagons are messed up (see picture).
My printer is Ender 3, and I use the following settings :
0.12 mm
Infill 90%
Support (yes only above bedplate).
Speed 40 mm/s

Sounds similar to comments made by choamer and dawm.

Hmm. How many walls are you printing with? I suggest 3 walls for this print to keep those areas strong. I wonder if the infill is breaking it or maybe the edges are curling up and you are breaking them with the tip when its moving in to those sections. Maybe a z-hop adjustment is needed.

I print these with the following settings:
layer height - .2
Walls - 3
Nozzle - 190-200
Bed - 60
Infill - 100%
Supports - no
Speed 50 mm/s

Thanks for your answer.
My investigation is still ongoing, but the most likely is that I have an under extrusion problem. I have similar problems with other prints.
So most probably when I solve the under extrusion this print will come fine.

Thanks for this design. You saved me having to make my own enclosure for this board. I wish everyone slotted the wire openings!

Lookin good, man!

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love the green filament

Thanks! I love it. In hindsight though, I would have used some transparent green from 3DSolutech. This stuff prints amazing: https://amzn.to/2JnV44y

So glad to hear because i just bought a spool of that exact 3DSolutech product minutes before your reply. Gonna be a busy day on the printer when that stuff comes in!

Oh nice! I ended up buying 4 more spools of their filament and I will be buying more when I need it. It's smoother than everything else I've printed with — finish wise. Here's an example of the latest print with it.

I tried printing this and the bottom half had a catastrophic failure where the print nozzle bumped into the tiny sections in the hex pattern you put on the sides.

Was I supposed to put supports there?

Same exact thing happened to me

Nope. Shouldn't need any supports. Sounds like you might have had a layer shift? Try to print it again but slower. Do .12 layer height and 40mm/s. :)

Could you adapt the Design for the LM2596S? I buyed 5 of them by accident just to found out that they are a bit smaller than the lm2596. They are just a bit smaller in length while the width and height are still the same. But since i don't won't to ruin the hexagon shape and you are actually the only one here that is not just producing total bullshit, i hoped that you could edit it for me and add it to the package.

Thanks for the compliment. Let me see what I can do. I might need you to take some measurements for me. I will let you know.

How easy is it to remove the enclosure if I want to mount it somewhere else on the frame?

You can just pull on it slowly and it will snap out. If you want it to last a bit longer, sliding it in/out works well. I use this enclosure in several places as well. :)

The first layer of the lid doesn't print well for some reason. It first looks like its under extruding, but I think that's not the case. Can it be the gaps in the Cura slicer?

Think I found it, the first layer has 4 "stripes" that messed up the print...
Does someone know how to fix this?

Hmm. Thats really odd. Try lowering the whole thing below the print plate by a tiny amount and see if that fixes layer 1.

Anyone has an idea what Cura is trying here (see attached image)? Usually I prefer zig zag for top and bottom. But with this model Cura skips some parts every second layer. I switched to concentric which seems to work fine - currently printing...

Great design. How is your raspberry pi mounted to the rear of the LCD screen?

Ender 3/Cr-10 Raspberry Pi Case with PiCam Slot

want to give these a try - they look cool. do you use supports for the tabs? Looking at the overhang there is probably no way to print this without, am i right?

Yes, supports for the tabs are a must. However, the ones in the lid print just fine without supports. :)

I have tried to print one for me. But the base didn't print well. There are some problems in the stl-file. There are gabs between the inner parts and the Bottom.
On the Picture you see the gab between layer 12/13/14 if you print it with 0.15mm
I have load the stl into DesignSpark and you can see the gab, too.

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Fixed! New files added as well. Thank you for catching this and giving me the chance to improve it.

after my holiday i will make one with the new files.

Fixed. Thank you for your post and giving me the chance to fix it. :)

Hmm. That is definitely an issue! Let me take a look in my files and see if I can make a fix. Thank you for bringing this to my attention.

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Hey thanks for this! Printing one tonight to go with the Adjustable 2020 USB LED Mount you also made :) , Could you please provide a wiring diagram to take the power from the printer power supply to this converter. Also do you please have the 'thingy' file for those smart little 2020 wire clips your using in your pics :) . Thank you very much

There are labeled + and - "out" terminals right on the board. All you do is run two wires to two empty + and - terminals right at the bottom of your power supply, under the cover. ;)

Here are the clips: (I love em) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2673266

2020 Cable Clips

Fantastic! Thank you very very much. Great designs too.

Thanks mate, im gonna use this one on my AM8

Awesome. Post a make when you do. ;)

Just curious, what is this used for. Great looking design.

There are many uses but I used it to run power from my power supply to this buck converter, reduced the 24v to 5.1v, and then micro usb cable out to power my raspberri pi. Now, I just plug in one cord to power on the whole system. ;)