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Hangtight

Creality Stock Hotend Mount & Part cooling with BLT & EZABL

by Hangtight Oct 27, 2018
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would this work with the CR10s PRO if I am using a 5015 and Microswiss hot end? or is the backplate different for the cr10s pro vs the ender

The Pro has a different X carriage.

Ok, i actually commented on your other design with the pro x carriage asking whether you have a version for the pro x carriage that can accomodate the micro swiss all metal hot end. I have your design on all 3 of my printers and would love to put it on my pro as well

Man. I love this cooler (been using since V2), but the latest version (V5) moved the bulge in the part cooling duct to the inside where it conflicts with the fan duct I designed to accommodate my Noctua 4020 HE fan. Compared to any other fan, this Noctua is very near silent with comparable CFM's so I'm very reluctant to use anything else. Any chance of providing a second version of the part cooling duct which has the bulge on the outside so people have the option to chose whichever works best for them? Super sad to switch coolers over this, if that's what it comes to and I see several other people affected by this in the comments.

I'd even be happy with a quick and dirty modification of a previous version with just the mounting bracket modified to interface with the current HE shroud...

Thanks for your time and this awesome design!

Fan duct, 40mm, 65 degrees

It's always a compromise between nozzle visibility and space in front of the hotend fan. It would be easier to modify the adapter than try and re-engineer the whole duct. I'd be happy to let you have a STEP file of the assembly if you wanted to have a go at modeling something up.

Yeah, I get that. I realize it's probably a large ask, but that's kind of why I feel like having both in your stl's might be better for everyone... Totally appreciate how much extra work that probably represents from version to version, though.

Want to try an adapter I've modeled and see if it works for you?

Absolutely. Thanks! I'd also be interested in the step file as a backup plan if that's alright.

Check the files section. I've uploaded an adapter.

I went ahead and (crappily) applied the modification I was suggesting and posted it as a thing for reference. I had to drastically simplify the mesh to convert it to brep, so you could do a much nicer job of this, but it works perfectly otherwise.

Also, when mounting the fan, the screw holes didn't seem to have the normal chamfer or fillet you usually use to make the machine screws bite a little better on start, but maybe that's just the angled face distorting them during the print.

Cheers again!

Modified 4020 Adapter for HangTight cooler v5

Alright. It printed great. And it's mostly good. The only issue I think would be worth addressing is that the flat-ish part of the inset actually still blocks the sweet spot of the adjustable range of the part cooler. I think if you simply extended the notch straight through without stopping (and creating that little flat ledge), or at least rounding it off a good 5-10mm, it would print slightly better (no overhang), be slightly more aerodynamic inside, and, most importantly, be completely out of the way no matter where you want to put the part cooler duct.

As it is now, I have to set the part cooler too high to get it to not interact with the adapter duct.

If that's not clear let me know and I'll upload and link to some pictures. Thanks again!

I modeled it with clearance when the duct was as far up as it can go which is going to be higher than it would be installed to get it the correct height relative to the nozzle, so I'm not sure where you're getting an interference. Got a pic of the issue?

Printing now. I'll update when I've fitted it, but just looking at it, it seems like a relatively small concession, from an airflow standpoint. Thanks for doing this!

My M3 nuts fit perfectly into the hotend duct. But the slots for the M3 nuts on the parts fan duct piece are too tight and I can't get them in. I think they need to be enlarged a bit.

Love this mount. Very rigid. Is there a stl that allow me to attach a dial indicator for leveling the bed?

I've not modeled one, and I haven't seen one, but I'd be happy to give you the dimensions of the ABL mount if you wanted to adapt it to work.

Could we have a larger clearance around the ptfe tube coupler on the top? I would love to be able to unscrew it without disassembling the whole thing!

This details page lists the required quantity of 5 M3 bolts, but not the length, what length bolts do I need to get?

What an excellent design! Thank you for this!

i have having issues with bedleveling with this Mod.. i dont understand where i set the following perimeters.. do i do this on the ender 3 and if so where? or do i enter this in Cura somewhere?

BLTouch offset: X -41.24, Y -6.25

Hello, great fang! Do you happen to know if there is enought clearance for a 4020 hotend fan?

Not quite, but because the shroud is a lot more effective at getting the cooling air onto, around and away from the heatsink a 10mm fan works fine. Sunon fans are a lot quieter than stock. Make sure you get a high flow version.

cool design, do i need print it petg or pla works fine too ?

PLA will certainly last long enough to print one in PETG...;)

ty petg than :)

The latest version on the shroud doesn't fit with the bltouch v2 with the supplied bracket. The bltouch only has 2.5mm clearance from the shroud, but the curve, extends out about 6.5mm. I will likely just dremel the shroud to fit.

Fixed. Sorry about that.

Thanks for letting me know. I'll sort that out as soon as possible.

the extruder fan blows directly on the heatblock from above. whats the point?

The shroud directs and accelerates the flow over the heatsink before exhausting it cleanly away from the print, without cooling the heater block.

It's designed so a small amount of the flow moves from the high pressure region in front of the heatsink down between the heater block and the shroud itself, just to keep the shroud from melting, but compared to the stock shroud it's minimal.

Comments deleted.

i put a cup of water under the nozzle and disturbance was clearly visible.
it works anyway but it just seems strange to me. usually they install the fan vertically, so it blows directly

A couple of images from the development simulations.

Hi have you made changes to reinstate the base part so it misses the lower wheel?

Yes. The current file has the cutout to clear the bolt. Apologies for posting the incorrect model previously.

Hangtight out of interest, what percentage are you running the cooling fan please.this things works so efficient :-)

For general PLA printing, around 60-65% is generally plenty, although it depends on the speed/output of the blower you've got fitted.

V4 of the base doesn't appear to have any holes to mount the 404010mm stock hotend fan?

I've printed and will drill and tap holes for mine but suspect that this wasn't intentional?

I'm also jerry-rigging a 6025 fan I salvaged from an old printer as I don't have a 5015 but the mounting hole in the bottom of the base appears to work fine - will duct tape it for now and print an adaptor once I know the dimensions and relative position of the fan outlet and the duct inlet.

This is a great looking duct which maximises the view of the nozzle, something other ducts resolutely fail to do.

40mm holes bullied into reappearing. Sorry about that. If you spot any more issues, let me know and I'll poke it with a stick. ;)

Many thanks!

Decided to reprint the hotend base which has nearly finished.
Then I can get on to working out the 6025 to 5015 adaptor :)

On my Ender 3 - the X-carriage lower wheel assembly had the nut on the hotend side of the wheel assembly, not on the wheel side as on the two top wheels. As a result, the lower part of the hotend duct needed to be judiciously modified to accommodate the mounting of the lower wheel.

Will let you know how it performs.

I had the same issue. Once modified in that one area mine worked great.

I'll check tomorrow whether Fusion had a moment with the stock hotend fan holes. It wouldn't be the first time. ;)

Not sure what happened with mine, but had to make quite a few adjustments to get it to fit.
All holes lined up perfectly, but would not fit flush to the face over both top and bottom wheel bolts, so had to file out a bit to get it to fit.
Also would not fit over the boden tube coupling and had to remove about 5mm of material for it to sit flush on the plate.
Apart from that, it's a great design.

Comments deleted.

Got some pics of where it didn't fit?

Check earlier comment by @kamikazeta. I had to repeat actions shown in photos also to fit the stock hotend.

That's it. I had to do exactly the same as @kamikazeta to fit stock hot end, but also where the boden fitting is had to remove about 5mm.

great job, but there are some changes to install this product on ender 3 pro with microswiss.

Edit: upload photo where you can see the changes.

Unfortunately I don't have a Microswiss hotend to model and check for fitment.
I'll double check, but the issue with the diameter of the hole and clearance over the roller mounting bolt was addressed in a revision some time ago.

This is my favorite part cooler yet. Love the design overall.
However, I had to grind out the bottom left corner to fit over the bolt for the lower roller on the x carriage on the newest version.(V3 I think) Strangely, this area was cut out properly on the previous version but this new version does fix multiple other areas so it's still the better one. Overall excellent design.

Dear Hangtight ,
May I kindly ask you to share 3D model of you duct v4 (source file). I am re-designing guntry for my Crealiy Ender-4 (in Fusion 360) and your design fits nicely to mine except its mounting to the fan cage section. Would be glad to tune it up and share back.
Thank you in advance!
Cheers,
Sergiy

With new update nozzle ends seem to have 4 openings instead of the 2 after slicing. Is their a setting I should change?

I'd left a fairy thin wall there by mistake. A new version has been uploaded. The version you've already downloaded will print if you turn on 'Print thin walls' in your slicer. Also, turn off the supports, as this component is designed to print with zero support.

Hi. I am having some clearance issues with the microswiss hot end: baing 2-3 mm shorter than stock one, the heater block is so close to the fan duct that even the silicone sock is not able to fit. Do you think it would be possible to move the cooling fan duct a little higher and away from the heater block? Here are some pictures

I have the same problem with my microswiss installed on the ender 3 pro.
I hope it is solved

I haven't seen any new update lately

@Hangtight, did you have any chance to look at the problem?

On the ender 3, are the 5015 blowers 12 or 24 Volt

All fans on the Ender 3 are 24v, apart from the PSU fan.

Hi there,
i wonder which length the M3 screws need to have as my assortment is lacking some lenghts.

I'm about ti print this baby. Once installed, do we need to adjust the speed of the fan ? I guess it can be done in Cura directly ... Thanks in advance !

You'll find you need a lot less cooling/fan speed. Set it in Cura. For PLA give 50-60% a try, maybe a bit more for long bridges.

Thanks a lot for the fast reply !

Ah that was the problem. ;) No worries I grinded away that little part. Couple of observations on this new design; the left fan-duct doesn't have enough clearance with the ABL probe. I also grinded away a bit on the right side so I can clear the thermistor wires way better and they now sit nicely without having to rotate the heater-block.

Lastly, when checking the air flow, I notice the air is just behind the nozzle (looking from the front), is that by design?

The airflow is designed to prevent a stagnant area at the nozzle and make sure the airflow exits rearwards. Take a look at the airflow CFD images.

Cane you indicate where you have clearance issues?

Yes, so that plot shows me I should feel the air concentrated just before the nozzle on the front, but I feel it concentrated more behind it that was what confused me. Print dimensions are good.

The EZABL touches the fanduct on the left and prevent it from staying in a more proper orientation.. photo attached.

I'll double check the model and get back to you about the EZABL mount. Somethings not quite right there. Thanks for letting me know.

Thank you for being so supportive! Really like the design so want to stick with it. :)

New EZABL bracket updated. Sorry about that. I neglected to check it when I revised the duct. Let me know how it works out.

No worries, thanks!

Tried it on my Ender 3 but sadly there's a conflict with the bottom screw for the well, if you could provide the file or modify it to fit the Ender 3 that would be great!

Can you clarify?

Do you mean the bottom wheel nut?

My apologies. Wrong file uploaded. Give me a few minutes.

Exactly, the main fan holder goes over it, so impossible to install, I'll mostly try to cut it with something to make it fit, because I really like the design

A new file has been uploaded. Thanks for pointing it out. I try to think of everything, but sometimes little details get missed.

Thank you Hangtight! The new file looks like it will clear the nut! Also thanks for such a great design!

If the OP doesn't make one soon, I'll give it a go later in the week and post it. Looks like the Ender-2 and Ender-3 cartridges are slightly different than the rest of the CR-10 line.

It's my mistake. I uploaded the wrong file after the update. Resolving it now.

Has anyone used this on an Ender-2? The main piece for the hot end seems to interfere with the bottom nut/screw for the bottom carriage wheel... Am I missing anything?

Note for future reference Hangtight updated the design and it now fits great!

Hi, thanks for the design. I can't get the duct to stay snugly in place. i realize it's meant to be adjustable, but it's just sliding down below the nozzle. I've tried M3x8 and M3x12. The threads are there, its just not tightening like the 4010 fan threads. It's printed in petg. Everything fits well, and the circles are all as they should be, not oval or anything as far as I can tell. Any thoughts or suggestions? I just put a 5015 on after making sure everything fit. It seemed tight enough at first. Thanks (edit: Duh, that space is for a nut. I'll leave this here in case someone else doesn't realize. I just thought, oh that's so I can see what I'm doing. :(

Glad you worked it out. :)

Are you concerned that the raident heat from the bed during the first few layers (without cooling) with cause the printed part to distort? Petg will distort badly at 80c - ePa-cf is 160c but most people will print this in pla 60c... Is this a concern?

The tips of the nozzle distort after a while, but even a low flow seems to keep it from getting too warm, even in PLA.

So if you are planning on printing abs this shouldn't be used?

It would be fine for printing ABS if printed in a higher temperature material. Any printed duct will have the same issue, but this one less than others. The very focused airflow means the nozzles are further away from the heat block, and the hotend fan maintains a cooling flow between the heat block and the shroud. It has been designed using CFD analysis and a refined flow version will be available shortly.

And back again with another request. ;) For printing CPE HG100, I noticed prints get cooled too much without using the parts-cooling fan. This causes some warping and I was wondering if the heatsink-fanduct could be designed so it really channels airflow to the fins and not partly to the nozzle area..

I'll take a look and see if I can reduce the flow leakage out the bottom.

You might be able to "pressurize" the air a little bit, by letting the sides of the duct curve inwards (and thus upwards on the bottom). This would already limit leakage apart from just closing that area.

Lol! If only it worked like that! Axial fans generate very little static pressure. and any attempt to choke the flow just stops it dead. In order to lower the pressure you need to increase the speed of the flow. I'll see what I can do to create a lower pressure area at the base of the duct.

Ah, clearly I need to look into air and fluid dynamics. :) Thanks once again.

Another day or so and a revision will be up. I've managed to significantly reduce flow out past the heat block towards the part while improving flow over the heat sink.

have you looked at the hero me duct? It really fits the heatsink without too many lateral openings

It also flows really poorly due to the opposed nozzle design. Since the above comments the shroud has been redesigned and CFD analysed to give better flow with far less flow leakage down past the heater block.

Amazing, thanks a bunch! This will probably be my favourite fan for a long while. :)

This fan shroud is fantastic, one suggestion put Hang Tight on the flat area facing out, might as well be proud.

Love the design, really clever. Only thing I'm struggling with are the thermistor and heaterblock wires. Do they move completely out of the way? Seems like a lot of stress on them.

There's a load of space for them between the hotend shroud and the X carriage. They can then be zip tied to the pylon for strain relief. All you have to do with the heater cartridge is slack off the clamping bolt and turn it so the leads point back towards the X carriage a bit.

Thanks for the quick reply! Just installed it and loving it! Only tiny little thing is that it doesn't sit perfectly straight (the fan duct) when I tighten the screw for that. Makes sense as 3D printed parts are rarely that precise, but it would maybe help if a second screw could kind of level it on the left. It's just a tiny amount so I can use it just fine.

Thanks for the feedback. Let me give that a little thought and see what I can come up with.

Great, thanks for taking that into concideration! If I may, just one other detail.. :) .. the EZABL probe mount seems a little bit too wide on the left side of the bracket (so the part that bolts to the X-axis), it just fits when doing normal endstop triggering, but when autohoming on my Ender-2, it pushes just a little bit further and the EZABL mount is pushed a bit to the side. We're talking about fractions here.

Also, I found my EZABL offsets (if anyone else is interested), to be X; -45 and Y; -27

.. have seen kind of the same (small) "problem" of the duct not being completely straight. not having a 5015 yet - still on it´s (long) way, i couldn´t mount the assembly yet, but from the printed parts i found the EZABL adapter to be in the way of the lower, left screw for the x-carriage base plate. so i introduced a small cutout as a workaround (see picture).

.. might be also useful to have the second mounting screw for the fan covered?

I'll take a look at that, and modify as necessary. You try to think of everything, but you always miss something!

No worries, really liking the design and how well it was thought out, love the inserts etc. Thats when users can be of help. :) Really great you take this advice into consideration!

hi!
.. this seems to me like one of the most interesting hotend builds i´ve seen - many thx for that!

started to change all fans, because the noise is absolutely awful - more than anything else. my main problem now is the radial stock fan on ender 3; this is also a very cheap and crappy one - makes lots of noises even on x-movements (already changed to new one - same story). but - i couldn´t find a proper radial fan available and since it is regulated, stepdown module for a 12 v version axial can´t be used. so i´m now trying the 5015 (also cheap crap?) version; if this doesn´t improve, i need an axial solution - maybe with a resistor (330 ohms, > 0, 5 watts should do) - anyway.

.. would be extremely nice, if you would develop a compact part version of "partduct" for a 40x40x10 axial fan in addition; could maybe be placed lying at an angle on top in the center to even distribute airflow more even, and - make the design even more compact. something like in the picture as just ONE possibility of many. ;-)

Axial fans just don't generate the static pressure required to push air through ducts. They're fine for wafting large volumes around but useless for generating fast moving focused flows.
The design of the duct generates equally distributed flow to both nozzles. The runners are equal length and volume, while the larger volume from the outlet of the fan to the start of the runners acts as a low velocity, high pressure plenum.
You can use a LM2596 step down to regulate the supply voltage to a 12v fan on a 24v printer and still achieve full PWM speed control as it's the ground that's modulated.
If you get a half decent ball bearing 5015, then the duct is efficient enough that you will rarely need more than 50% fan speed and the noise is significantly reduced.

many thx for your reply!
.. understand your arguments around pressure of different fan types and airflow considerations, but the fan "pwm"-control on a 2-wire fan is something different.

agree with the reduced noise on 50% speed and will try that now after receiving the 5015. my stock fan type on the other hand besides simple and usual fan noise generates a strange rumbling (very hard to describe) depending on the x-carriage movement, which is really weird.

Use the buck converter to drop the voltage supplied to the fan to 12v. Then sink the negative connection of the fan to the PWM controlled ground on the board.

.. sorry to bother you so much, but - in spite of not being an electronics noob - never heard of something like that. the cheap radials are available for 24 volts anyway, so would be only needed for 12 v (axial, available in quality) but is interesting. do you mean like in the attached drawing (gnd is routed straight through the module and mustn´t connect 2 different ground potentials??!!, so wether connect the blue gnd to the fan plug OR connect black to "pwm contr. gnd")? and if so (or similar) - what you mean by "pwm controlled ground" and where would it to be found (onboard - rev. 1.1.3)?

Nearly. You take the ground out to the same connection as the ground in. Positive out goes to the fan. Ground out of the fan goes to the fan ground connection, where it is switched via a NPN transistor to give speed control.
To be honest I sometimes use step downs for fixed speed fans, but half decent 5015 part fans are available in 24v, so I simply buy those.

I think he means that the fan pwm is controlled via a npn transistor, so the 24v are coming straight from the main 24v rail while the translator is just switching on and off the ground connection

yes, and this should be ok with the converter - just don´t know, if the fan plug on the board is really pwm-controlled or just by voltage.

You can use a multimeter and check is the positive is 24v even if the fan is off (of course use another ground reference)

sure i can and i would (have to), just found it a bit more straight forward to ask before, if somebody already knew. but - many thx for your answers anyway. ;-)

ps: all the rest of the fans i already changed (included plus one in my raspberry housing), mounted the stepper motor dampers, and the ender 3 is amazingly quiet now - except the parts cooling fan - of course.

Nice job!

Will a 40x40x20 hotend fan fit in your design???

Not quite, but it really doesn't need one.

Thank you for your prompt reply.

Ya, I figured it didn't need one but it is what I have....