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Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!
rickcavanaugh

Doorman with fixes and improvements

by rickcavanaugh Oct 29, 2018
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Bar connecting eyelids have gaps that cause weak connection. I had to use "merge nearby lines" option in my slicer (Idea Maker) to sort of fix it.

Hey, excellent modification. Can you share the original files, to make some changes? I wish to make space for a speaker on the cover, and some holes for the wall.

Best regards

I have uploaded the design in ViaCad Pro and a DWF. It was designed in ViaCad which you may or maynot be able to import . Hopefully one of the 2 will be helpful

Hey. What is better to use doorman_face.stl or doorman_mask_v2.stl?

v2 is the latest version and has more improvements

I’m a newbie to 3D printing so forgive me if this is a stupid question but if I was to make this double size will any of the non printed parts have to be larger ? eg. the capacitors , servo etc.

most likely not, but if you do a simple enlarge, the servos will not fit in the existing slots. You could make a simple filler block to take up the excess space. The servos should have plenty of power to move an eye 2x bigger.

Ok thanks. Will give it a go

Hi friend, can you make the eyelash file available?

Eyelids are uploaded.

beautiful work, I've been following this project and wanted to contribute as you have. Excellent work. Still not great schematics. If you contact me I'll help!

And give yourself a little credit for splitting the eye into 3 prints to use different color plastic (for us mono print folks)

Why didn't you include the eyelids?

I made no changes to the eye lids yet. They need a spacer of about 3 mm to keep it centered. The code and the way things are layed out, the bottom eyelid is not used.

Pin 3 is the top lid servo
Pin 5 is eye 1 servo
Pin 6 is eye 2 servo
Pin 9 is eye 1 up (not used in current code)
Pine10 is Eye 2 up (not used in current code)

Pin 13 is LED light
Pin 12 is Led 2

PIR is pin 2

It is best to wire signal (yellow wire or white wire) together on eye 1 and 2 (left right) and connect to either Pin 5 or 6. Same is true for Pin 9 and 10 wire the signal wire together and connect to either. Both eyes should go left and right together and up and down together, so there is no reason to use 2 pins. Unless you want the eyes to be out of time with each other.

Each servo may need to be calibrated separately (differences in servo gear position, the length of steel wire to the eye ball etc.), so it's better to assign different pins to each of the servo instead of hard wiring them. Also servo 9 and 10 are moving in opposite direction. I made some changes in my code to make it work.

The bars fit good. Might be better at 1-2mm longer, but they are functional.

Servos can be calibrated using Radio Control linkages (I post images of these). The length of each linkage can be easily changed using these. They are available at most hobby shops as well as Hobby King. There are also servo reversers that go inline. Also very common in RC aircraft control. Another thing worth getting is a BEC (battery elimination circuit) and a Lipo Battery. I 1000-2000mah lipo would power this for a LONG time. It also has cleaner power so no capacitors are needed.

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Thanks for some of these fixes! I keep running into all the things you've fixed and been working through them myself. I was looking for adjusted bar files,yours will save me some time in cad. I modified your bars file to lay flat for straight to the slicer.

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Hobb3s corrected flat files added