Please note: This hotend housing might also fit with stock hotend, I have not testet it, but maybe someone will :-)
I have done a lot of bad prints on my Chiron, and seen a lot of people also having the same problems, and mine is not even a 1 gen.
With my stock hotend I had a lot of blobs and stringing, and strange "bloblines" in the print. Yes it could print, and some people might be satisfied with that, but to me it looks really bad.
In the profiles people are sharing, I see a lot of "complicated" parameters that should compensate for what in my opinion is a hardware problem.
A printer should be able to make nice print without using parameters like "coast at end" or "Extra restart distance", It should be able to make nice prints, with a "standard" simple profile.
The main problem is the hotend. I normally get good results with a Creality MK8 hotend, so I installed that on the printer. I had to drill, and used the autolevel sensor as position reference.
I made a new bracket that:
- Brings the cooling fan closer to the Creality MK8
- Stop cablechain from bending bowden tube
- Easy access to hotend
- Better position for connector (at least in my opinion)
- autolevel sensor compatibel
I also made a cable holder that prevent the to move the connector (use zip ties).
I did upgrade (also my opinion :-) the extruder with a non gear version, meaning no gear slip or sound. I had to adjust Vref on the stepperdriver to prevent step skips. I might buy a bigger motor, but it works for now.
I had Z-wobble, so also upgraded (also my opinion :-) the couplers, and they work for me.
I know there is a lot of opinions on what is right or wrong, and what could have be done instead, but this solution works for me, and I moved from useless ugly print to nice prints on my Chiron.
Your Chiron can also print nice with a small effort ;-) hope you enjoy the STL's
Final note: I might had a failed hoted, or extruder from the start, but his was my way do deal with more than one problem newer liked the closed extruders anyway :-)