You will likely need a top mounted spool holder for this to work correctly.
I'm using this:
You will also need to invest in a cable extension kit for full Z range. These are awesome and I really suggest them anyways in case you want to relocate the control box.
I'd been wanting a direct drive extruder for my CR-10S since I got it but didn't want to spend much on a high end extruder that costs a third of what my printer cost.
After trying the Sturdified Direct drive remix by Simtpal, and really liking it, I went on to try multiple cooling solutions, but none really worked the way I wanted, and the ones that use the heat break screws caused the alignment of the extruder and the hot end to go out of alignment.
The high clearance fang worked alright, but I wasn't really digging the look.
Found the Hero Me and really liked the compact design and the high clearance for the extruder that most other cooling solutions don't have.
I took them both and mashed them together into a single part.
The nice thing is that you can still use this with whatever pipe the Hero Me supports, so you could actually instal this with all stock parts!
ZIRO Carbon Fiber PLA Carbon Fiber PLA
Print in the upright orientation, just like it will install on the printer.
Use at least 4 perimeters/shells on the top and bottom and a nice rigid filament like carbon fiber fill or good PLA. Definitely want good stiffness.
I used 20% zigzag support from build plate only. Cleanup is fairly quick and easy, but you'll likely need to cleanup the bottom around where the tabs for the pipes slide up into the body.
Supports should remove pretty quick and easy. Be sure to clean up the bottom where the tabs for the pipes will slot into. The pipes will need to easily slide into those slots or you may break something.
The cables can either slot in between the hotend and heatsink cooling fan or be routed out the back, like on mine.
You'll need to do a little measuring and trial and error to cut a piece of PTFE tube so the fit between the hot end and extruder are just right. Be sure to chamfer the inside of the tube on the end going into the extruder to ensure loading is nice and easy.
Finally, make sure you belts are nice and tensioned to prevent ringing from the additional weight on the carriage.
Installation and Assembly
What to Print
In addition to this model, you will need to head over to this Thing's page and pick the right cooling pipes that work with what you have:
If you're using the stock blower fan, print the 4010_Pipes
If you're using a larger 5015 blower, print either of the 5015_Pipes models.
(I suggest using the newest one uploaded)
Once printed and supports cleaned, make sure to fit the pipes to the assembly to make sure it all fits properly. It's much easier to clean up those guides before installing.
Begin by removing the current hot end and fans. Unscrew all screws and set aside.
The actual hot end and heatsink can remain on the carriage. Remove the PTFE tube from the hotend and extruder.
NOTE: if you're using the same PTFE tube, it may be easier to leave it in so measuring what you need to cut for the extruder is a little easier.
You will need to remove the left nut that holds the guide wheel, the bolt, spacer, and wheel. Set aside.
Remove all screws holding the extruder and stepper motor from the mount on the X axis.
Take the new direct drive mound and slide it over the carriage, make sure all holes are lined up, and use the two small screws that held the old fan housing to secure it. Be sure cables from hot end are still pointing up.
Place the bolt through the direct drive mount and carriage, slide on spacer, then guide wheel, then loosely thread the nut back on.
Up to now the carriage has been kind of flopping around and you'll think this was a mistake.... don't worry.
Now, the tricky part.
You will need to make sure you're applying pressure on all 3 wheels, pushing down on top two and up on bottom wheel into the X axis track WHILE you tighten that nut on the carriage nut.. (really helps to have help with this)
You need to make sure all 3 wheels are making good contact to the track or the whole assembly will be super unstable.
This took me a good 4-5 tries to get right. But once you get it, you should be able to push the carriage back and forth and slightly forward and back with NO rattling or slop.
You'll need to do a little measuring and trial and error to cut a piece of PTFE tube so the fit between the hot end and extruder are JUST right. Be sure to chamfer the inside of the tube on the end going into the extruder to ensure loading is nice and easy.
Slide the small PTFE tube all the way down.
Now, take extruder base, (without the little lever), and slide it down over the PTFE tube and align with the stepper holes in the motor mount. You should JUST feel the tube bottom out right when the holes align. This will probably take a few tries.
Once everything is lined up, slide the stepper motor in and use same screws to secure it to the mount and extruder. Reassembly with the lever and spring can be tricky, but you should get the hang of it!
Now, rout the cables in a way that has them trailing off behind the assembly.
An extension kit is super helpful, but not required as long as your control box is near and not printing really tall things.
Zip tie or tape all your cables to make sure they're taking up any tension together. Making sure the connection to the stepper is not strained at any point in the motion of the printer.
Slide the cooling pipes up, making sure cables are routed up over them, not below.
Use the two small, black screws that previously held the small blower fan to secure the cooling ducts in a way they're blowing just at the bottom tip of the nozzle.
Make sure you belts are nice and tensioned to prevent ringing from the additional weight on the carriage.
Finally, re-level your bed, load some filament, and give it a try!